Does anyone know what type of paint to use to restore an original air cleaner? ('71 Cutlass 455) Hi-temp, epoxy, automotive gloss black, krylon? I got a new 455 decal at Pomona and want to freshen up my air cleaner for starters.

 

Carefull perfecting the air cleaner. You know that how "IT" starts The next thing you know the intake is a little dull next to the shiny air cleaner and its all down hill from there.

 

Speaking from experience eh?

 

No idea what you are talking about.

 

That's how the 67 got started I was just going to freshen it up a little, and 2 years and 14K later it's still not done!

 

I have had good experience with the O'Reilly brand high temperature spray paint. The semi-gloss black looks good for air cleaners, brackets, and pulleys. Don't use this paint for the block or heads though. It will burn off quickly.

 

Use semi-gloss as Olds64 states the imperfections show less. Any good Hi temp brand will work. make sure you clean well and rough up with fine grit sandpaper to hold the paint. Freshen up is a relative term. Serveral years and dollars later and I am sitll in the freshen up process on my 57

 

Finally... a couple answers I can use, thanks.

 

Was not sure if gloss or semigloss was correct but I knew someone else would answer.

 

I restored a Goat and we had charts which told us which gloss to use on what parts from flat to gloss and gave a" % of flat" formula ...

I'm going to detail the bay and like this info for a 70 Olds ...

 

It also had the wash colors for the brake booster and the speckle mix for the trunk ...

 

Where did you find that information? Original Parts Group has an Olds restoration guide in their Cutlass/442 catalog, but they no longer carry it.

I found some hi-temp gloss black in my garage and used it for this job, but I would like to be 'correct' with future projects on the car.

 

Isn't the core support glosser than the rest of the engine bay?

 

It's been 20 years since we did it. My guess is to check with some Show Judges, maybe call a show.

That's what I'm talking about.

 

The AZ chapter of the Olds Club of America has a meet at the end of Feb. I'm planning to go make some local connections and see other restorations first hand. (like my first boss used to say... do the job right the first time so you won't have to do it again)

 

The core support is gloss black along with the air cleaner, radiator, trailing arms, coil springs, differential housing and third member. The frames are chassis black, firewall and underbody are 30% gloss black.

The GTO restoration guide by Zazarine and Roberts gives you some of the colors and glosses, used it on all my goats and a lot of the info carries over to the other divisions, it's called "The Bible" in GTO circles. Both guys are pretty knowledgable and have been around a while. The Donahue/Zazarine "How to Restore Your Musclecar" book has charts for GM, Ford, Mopar and AMC chassis and component colors and glosses, It goes more in depth into all aspects of restoration. If you need some good tips or have never restored a car a real good book to have, lots of pictures.

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...t_adv_XSNG1060

 

I like it when you are done and you can notice the change.

If you want to win a show it helps to find out the criteria. The trunk emblems I bought were 1/64 off. I know that some **** judge will have a mic.

 

http://www.dealoz.com/prod.pl?cat=bo...ping_pref=cost
$12-$15

 

This is a very informative book - I ran across it at Half Price Books for 17 bucks. It states the black on GTO air cleaners is 60* gloss.
I wish they made a book just for the Cutlass.

 

Richard, didn't your frame-off start out as just a brake job??

 

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I am just going to replace the heater core and the wiring harness ...

I am just going to replace the heater core and the wiring harness ...

I am just going to replace the heater core and the wiring harness ...

I am just going to replace the heater core and the wiring harness ...

I am just going to replace the heater core and the wiring harness ...

 

You don't know how hard it is for me leaving the imperfect paint on it.

 

OOY veayh

 

It never ends once you start to make it better you always notice more to do. 57 Olds 8 years later and counting. lets see working on disc brake conversion oh and then there is the rust on the door panels, windsheild replace, new carpet and then there's the 48 Olds...................and on and on and on...........................

 

I think I dug my grave doing this interior...
Just when I saw my completion ahead, I just noticed today how crappy the sunvisors and header look, also the worn paint on the steering column...
Geez - I only started with a few tears in the back seat....

 

try Eastwood Paints' "underhood black" paint. you can also opt to bead blast your air cleaner, pulleys & bracketry and have them powdercoated (very durable finish). you can choose between a satin or gloss finish. the satin is slightly dull, which looks more like the factory finish..

 

I like 78's post powder coat will hold up better longer but coast more.

 

Some one in another thread gave me [posted] a chart. AGGGG, I can't find the cotton pick'in thing/

 

Is this it?

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ect-color.html

 

I've had a few original core supports, and they were very close to Eastwood's underhood black. I also like semi gloss powdercoating for the various brackets.

 

Kind of hard to see but the alternator bracket and the fan pulley were powercoated semi-gloss black in this pic. If I remember correctly, the semi-gloss used was 80% gloss. The finish was really even and smooth..hard to duplicate with a spray can.

 

belt looks a li'l loose ...

 

You're correct and Thanks for pointing that out...but you failed to mention the missing upper radiator hose and the wires not connected to the water temp and oil pressure senders !! Just putting the car back together so got a little more work to do including the belt tightening but I do appreciate the 'heads up'.

 

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