Correct Color
Correct Color
Hi,
I am in the middle of restoring my 72 442 and I was curious if there is a book were I could see what the correct colors or for certain parts of the vehicle. List below are some of the items I would like to paint the correct color;
Hood Hinge and Springs
Frt End Parts i.e. center link, tie rods etc.
Steering Box
Rear Axle
Stablizer Bars Frt/Rear
Drive Shaft
Brake Drums and Rotors
Trans Pan
Thanks
I am in the middle of restoring my 72 442 and I was curious if there is a book were I could see what the correct colors or for certain parts of the vehicle. List below are some of the items I would like to paint the correct color;
Hood Hinge and Springs
Frt End Parts i.e. center link, tie rods etc.
Steering Box
Rear Axle
Stablizer Bars Frt/Rear
Drive Shaft
Brake Drums and Rotors
Trans Pan
Thanks
I took a bunch of pictures at the recent Mecum auction of some of these items and what it taught me is everyone seems to do "original" color differently though the hinges were consistently a dark gray (zinc) color - some were flat black but I found info somewhere (can't remember where) that said the hinges were coated in a material that was gray. I have a can of "cast" color and I think that will work just fine. If mine were off again I'd powder coat them dark gray.
Somebody needs to verify and compile this info and put it all in one place, like a book.
The assembly manual shows some of the frame and components and what and what not should be painted, just a general guide because different plants had different techniques.
Olds is severely lacking in a definitive source for this stuff but most A bodies are about the same. I used the GTO resto guide and the Donahue musclecar resto book and looked around, reserched, no national show car but I like to be as close as I can get within reason.
I'm pretty sure The 30% gloss black is normally on the firewall and other body parts like the core support, it's a semi-gloss almost satin black, the Eastwood underhood black is real close, 60% is more glossy like the coil and wiper motor, PS pump is gloss.
I see cars with all kinds of differences and things painted that shouldn't be, to each their own unless it's a judged show car.
This site is for '67's but has some good info and most looks the same as later models.
http://oldsmobility.com/abdypnt.htm
I can give you the Donahue book specs for GM.
A lot of these parts were color coded too but no info on that, some is in the manual but not much.
Hood Hinge and Springs - Grey-oxide, short of sending them out to be done sandlasting then a clear applied dry or satin clear duplicates it pretty closely, mentioned on that site above too.
Frt End Parts i.e. center link, tie rods etc. - Manganese phosphate, sort of a gray-greenish tint color IIRC but most I see are natural steel cleared or a natural steel finish. The tie rod adjusting sleeves are semi-gloss black.
Steering Box - Natural w/aluminum top cover
Rear Axle- Semi-gloss, backing plates are natural
Stabilizer Bars Frt/Rear - Manganese phosphate
Drive Shaft- Natural
Brake Drums and Rotors- Natural, faces of drums painted semi-gloss black if the car was ordered with or has rally wheels.
Trans Pan - The AM shows black but most I see and remember from back then were natural steel and I've always done them that way.
Hope this helps, if I got some things wrong it will be corrected soon.

The assembly manual shows some of the frame and components and what and what not should be painted, just a general guide because different plants had different techniques.
Olds is severely lacking in a definitive source for this stuff but most A bodies are about the same. I used the GTO resto guide and the Donahue musclecar resto book and looked around, reserched, no national show car but I like to be as close as I can get within reason.
I'm pretty sure The 30% gloss black is normally on the firewall and other body parts like the core support, it's a semi-gloss almost satin black, the Eastwood underhood black is real close, 60% is more glossy like the coil and wiper motor, PS pump is gloss.
I see cars with all kinds of differences and things painted that shouldn't be, to each their own unless it's a judged show car.
This site is for '67's but has some good info and most looks the same as later models.
http://oldsmobility.com/abdypnt.htm
I can give you the Donahue book specs for GM.
A lot of these parts were color coded too but no info on that, some is in the manual but not much.
Hood Hinge and Springs - Grey-oxide, short of sending them out to be done sandlasting then a clear applied dry or satin clear duplicates it pretty closely, mentioned on that site above too.
Frt End Parts i.e. center link, tie rods etc. - Manganese phosphate, sort of a gray-greenish tint color IIRC but most I see are natural steel cleared or a natural steel finish. The tie rod adjusting sleeves are semi-gloss black.
Steering Box - Natural w/aluminum top cover
Rear Axle- Semi-gloss, backing plates are natural
Stabilizer Bars Frt/Rear - Manganese phosphate
Drive Shaft- Natural
Brake Drums and Rotors- Natural, faces of drums painted semi-gloss black if the car was ordered with or has rally wheels.
Trans Pan - The AM shows black but most I see and remember from back then were natural steel and I've always done them that way.
Hope this helps, if I got some things wrong it will be corrected soon.
Last edited by Bluevista; Oct 31, 2009 at 06:23 AM.
Could I ask where that info was compiled from wmachine?
I see a few things that I know are incorrect for my car from research and disassembly but it looks close overall so I'm not going to argue about it, one guys 60% is another's 30.
What you don't know won't hurt you anyway.
I see a few things that I know are incorrect for my car from research and disassembly but it looks close overall so I'm not going to argue about it, one guys 60% is another's 30.
What you don't know won't hurt you anyway.

Could I ask where that info was compiled from wmachine?
I see a few things that I know are incorrect for my car from research and disassembly but it looks close overall so I'm not going to argue about it, one guys 60% is another's 30.
What you don't know won't hurt you anyway.

I see a few things that I know are incorrect for my car from research and disassembly but it looks close overall so I'm not going to argue about it, one guys 60% is another's 30.
What you don't know won't hurt you anyway.


Sorry, that's about all I can tell you.
I certainly can't vouch for the accuracy.
Like you say re the 60/30, who knows. I cant believe that through the year and year, and plant to plant, etc. that there was unwavering consistency there. When you get to that level, face it, accurate chalk marks is really an oxymoron.
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