The cruiser.
A little update on my 69 vista cruiser, I’ve replaced all brake lines,wheel and master cylinders, all rubber hoses, fan belts, fuel pump, radiator. Rear coil springs and shocks, and have the front springs and all ball joints,tie rod ends bushings. Etc.etc. Waiting to be put on.
Rebuilt the carb, 2 barrel Rochester car runs great but has a rough idle. Trying to dial it in.
Here’s a a couple pics.

 

Very cool!

Let us know if you need advice tuning that carburetor.

 

Any advice is helpful, I’ve run the idle screws in then backed off 1 1/2 turns then adjusted from there still a rough idle, when on high idle mode on a cold start she runs like a champ, till the choke opens and she idles back down. Getting black soot out of tailpipe when idling.

 

Sweet ride!
The journey is as fun as the drive. Sometimes

 

You should use a vacuum gauge to adjust the carb. Hook it up to manifold vacuum and adjust each screw for the highest vacuum trying to keep them to about the same turns to each other. You also need to set your dwell and timing.

 

Can't offer any better advice than already posted above, but would like to make a comment on your post... "You are a wealthy man!"

 

Make the final idle mixture adjustment in drive, if it's a little too lean it will idle fine in park but misfire in drive.

 

That is a sweet ride!!

 

Thanks I’ll get a vacuum gauge, does any manifold vacuum work. I’ll have to study more on setting the dwell

 

Thanks

 

You need to set the dwell first, before setting the timing. If you don't have a meter, insert the required allen wrench in the points adjustment socket while idling. Slowly turn the wrench clockwise until the engine stumbles or dies. Next, turn the wrench back counter-clockwise exactly 1/2 turn and you're set.

 

Thanks I do not have a dwell meter, but might be able to borrow one. Or use the method you described above. My dad always done it by ear, but it was his car and he grew up doing points with his buddies back in the 50s and 60s.

 

Borrow one thats working or buy one. If you're not gonna be precise about the dwell, then your tuning will not be precise either without the correct tools. "Sorta close" is what you have now and why it runs like it does.

 

I bought this. Does timing, dwell, rpm etc. It's nice because my car doesn't have a tach so I can set idle speed and know exact timing at any given rpm.

 

A few times I've done that to first hint of stumble, then back one-half, and then checked with a dwell meter. It was always within 1° of being correct. That is all the accuracy you need.

 

You can check it all day with your meter or your buddies meter, it will be right at 30 degrees. Couple of different meters might read differently from each other. I trust this method that I was taught well over 50 yrs. ago, over the unknown accuracy of a meter. I have no way to check accuracy of a dwell meter.

Now whether or not your vac. gauge is accurate, has no bearing, you can still proceed with tuning your carb. You only need to get the highest reading that the gauge will read.

 

Thanks, I’ll look into it

 

Yes, I agree, I’ve got all new components on their way,

 

Use a vacuum gauge while simultaneously adjusting the A/F and timing with a warm engine at curb idle choke fully open.

-Is the carb secure on the intake? A new gasket will settle.
-Did you verify all vacuum lines are good?
-Ignition system in good working order...cap rotor plugs wires...
-Does the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm work?

Inspect distributor points for cleanliness, lubricate the cam/rubbing block, and verify the centrifugal advance weights are clean, properly lubed, and that the springs allow for free movement

Once you get the dwell set to 30° (or .016-.017" on a clean feeler gauge) hook the vacuum gauge to an intake or carb throttle base port (full time vacuum source).

Set the RPM to ~650-750 in park. Set the timing and the air fuel screws simultaneously until you obtain the highest possible vacuum reading. Then road test. Repeat as needed until its dialed in.

Report back if this doesn't do it or if the carb air/fuel screws are unresponsive.

 

One other thing...I like to hook the distributor vacuum advance to a full time vacuum source. I find this is best for a daily driver for max performance.

 

Setting timing to attain deeper vacuum could make the idle smoother but it will cause engine damage due to detonation unless the total timing is modified to compensate.

This is not learner-level advice unless you add a few paragraphs describing how to set total timing.