Coil Spring Removal
March 22nd, 2022, 11:16 AM
#41
Pickle forks ruin the dust boot. I've heard the warnings about "damage that could be caused by" using the BFH, BUT do you have any idea how many thousands have been done that way over the years? Never seen a broken knuckle/spindle, though.
March 22nd, 2022, 11:20 AM
#42
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 48,269
March 22nd, 2022, 12:38 PM
#43
Pickle fork wouldn't bust it either and I'm not worried about damage with new parts sitting on the work bench. I was banking on just giving them a few good wacks with a nice sledge hammer. Worked nicely on my 62 Impala in the past. Round two tonight and I pulled the shock before I ran in to this issue. I'll tie off the spring like what I have done in the past. Using the torch will be a last resort.
March 23rd, 2022, 07:39 AM
#45
Used the two BFH technique and it still didn't pop. Used the fork again and they finally broke free. Got everything dissassembled finally to work on the bushings. Now, time to dismantle the other side.
March 23rd, 2022, 07:47 AM
#46
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 48,269
Having used a pickle fork a lot, I've got a couple of lessons-learned.
The first thing is to make sure the tines of the fork are clear of anything on the open side. I've found myself beating the crap out of the pickle fork only to find that one of the tines was bound up against the control arm or part of the spindle and not actually moving. DOH!
The second thing is to be sure the fork is as solidly inserted as possible. I've had situations where the fork was hung up on the dust boot and each hammer blow was just bouncing off the rubber. I've also had situations where I wasn't able to hit straight in line and the fork ended up moving the suspension parts instead of wedging into the ball joint.
Finally, be sure your fork is wide enough for the ball joint stud but not too wide that it wastes the taper angle on the tines. Do NOT ask me how I know this...
The first thing is to make sure the tines of the fork are clear of anything on the open side. I've found myself beating the crap out of the pickle fork only to find that one of the tines was bound up against the control arm or part of the spindle and not actually moving. DOH!
The second thing is to be sure the fork is as solidly inserted as possible. I've had situations where the fork was hung up on the dust boot and each hammer blow was just bouncing off the rubber. I've also had situations where I wasn't able to hit straight in line and the fork ended up moving the suspension parts instead of wedging into the ball joint.
Finally, be sure your fork is wide enough for the ball joint stud but not too wide that it wastes the taper angle on the tines. Do NOT ask me how I know this...
March 23rd, 2022, 09:03 AM
#47
Having used a pickle fork a lot, I've got a couple of lessons-learned.
The first thing is to make sure the tines of the fork are clear of anything on the open side. I've found myself beating the crap out of the pickle fork only to find that one of the tines was bound up against the control arm or part of the spindle and not actually moving. DOH!
The second thing is to be sure the fork is as solidly inserted as possible. I've had situations where the fork was hung up on the dust boot and each hammer blow was just bouncing off the rubber. I've also had situations where I wasn't able to hit straight in line and the fork ended up moving the suspension parts instead of wedging into the ball joint.
Finally, be sure your fork is wide enough for the ball joint stud but not too wide that it wastes the taper angle on the tines. Do NOT ask me how I know this...
The first thing is to make sure the tines of the fork are clear of anything on the open side. I've found myself beating the crap out of the pickle fork only to find that one of the tines was bound up against the control arm or part of the spindle and not actually moving. DOH!
The second thing is to be sure the fork is as solidly inserted as possible. I've had situations where the fork was hung up on the dust boot and each hammer blow was just bouncing off the rubber. I've also had situations where I wasn't able to hit straight in line and the fork ended up moving the suspension parts instead of wedging into the ball joint.
Finally, be sure your fork is wide enough for the ball joint stud but not too wide that it wastes the taper angle on the tines. Do NOT ask me how I know this...
Luckily, It's all being replaced. Turning the spindle to one side helped with a solid blow from the hammer. Once free, I was able to pull the coil with ease. This next side should go quicker since I already fought the other side. First time. Those nuts and bolts that attach the lower control arm to the frame were a treat.
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