Coil Spring Removal
#1
Coil Spring Removal
Ok so im ready to tackle the front suspension and replace the coil springs and shocks. Would anyone like to take me through the process of removing the lower control arm from the ball joint so I can get this spring out?? Ive whacked it, tried the pickle fork and the sucker wont budge. Also, what other parts do I need to remove to make this install a success? Thanks in advance
#2
You back the castle nut off, but don't remove it. Let the control arm droop. Turn the steering so that you can see the flat spot where the ball joint enters the steering knuckle ... and introduce it to your BFH at medium speed. Several repeats may be required ... but I've not found that hitting it harder works better.
#3
Try to soak it with deep creep or pb blaster. Mine came off with little to no drama and my suspension was all original from 72. Idk if the proff. And I are talking about the same thing but hit the knuckle ring where the ball joint goes through on the outer edge. Just don't go nuts med to light blows will work better than big hits. Think of it like an impact gun impact shocks bolts loose too much wil break stuff too little won't do anything.
Last edited by coppercutlass; September 25th, 2013 at 11:33 AM.
#7
You hit the stud with your hammer, didn't you? It's not 'specifically' a problem ... but I leave it on so that when the ball joint releases, the whole shooting match doesn't unload the spring. If you can't easily get it back on ... chain the spring to the frame and put some blocking under the control arm so that it only drops a short bit .. an inch or so. You were going to need to chain the spring anyhow so that's nothing extra.
#8
I just did my whole front end and a regular jack not jack stand did the trick. I had the car on jack stands. I raised the jack up onto the lower control and left a very very little air gap so I can notice the drop. also plan on replacing that ball joint.
#10
It helps if there is pressure on the ball joint to release while your whacking on the steering knuckle part. Do you have the spring in a compressor, if not someone will get hurt? And do you have an assistant that can pry between the steering knuckle and the arm while you hit the knuckle?
#11
If you have a floor jack, put it under the lower control arm, but don't jack it up. Leave it there when you hit the spindle to loosen the ball joint.
You can also loosen all the nuts/bolts - but dont remove them - on the shock. Since the shock goes through the spring, it will prevent the spring from flying out and hurting someone (you!). Then you can jack the lower control arm back up to take the tension off the shock so it can be removed. After that, you can very slowly lower the floor jack till the spring is released.
You can also loosen all the nuts/bolts - but dont remove them - on the shock. Since the shock goes through the spring, it will prevent the spring from flying out and hurting someone (you!). Then you can jack the lower control arm back up to take the tension off the shock so it can be removed. After that, you can very slowly lower the floor jack till the spring is released.
#12
By the way, pounding on the ball joint stud is OK if the joint won't be reused, but you should remove the castle nut and thread it on upside down, leaving the nut flush with the stud end, before you use the bfh. That way you're not busting up the threads - so you can still get the nut off afterward.
#13
I've found that you can pound on the ball stud all day and it won't release. You have to pound on the side of the steering knuckle. Swing as hard as you can and just as it comes in contact release your grip on the handle just a little and let the hammer end hit.
Leaving the shock connected at this point is a very good idea with it hovering over the jack..
Leaving the shock connected at this point is a very good idea with it hovering over the jack..
#14
I've found that you can pound on the ball stud all day and it won't release. You have to pound on the side of the steering knuckle. Swing as hard as you can and just as it comes in contact release your grip on the handle just a little and let the hammer end hit.
Leaving the shock connected at this point is a very good idea with it hovering over the jack..
Leaving the shock connected at this point is a very good idea with it hovering over the jack..
correct.
A large enough hammer is required. Too small a hammer will never do.
You want to execute a blow perpendicular to the axis of the ball joint, and you should leave the castle nut on to protect the threads if re-using the BJ is to happen.
#15
If you're just replacing it....I just use a torch and cut it in 2 places...but I guess at this point I have to assume you don't have access to an acetylene torch. At any rate, when the nut would be removed, I just jack it up, put the frame on a jack stand and put the jack cup like a 1/2 inch below the ball joint so it catches the control arm when the ball joint is released. The just start whackin' the SPINDLE, use some propane if ya got it.
#16
Ok after some serious pounding I knocked it loose!! Got the coil out and replaced..... But how do I go about removing the lower control arm ball joint. Is there a special tool or trick to make this process simple??
#19
You need one of these things. Link for show, not a recommendation. It's worth it to buy your own IMO as they're equally useful for replacing u-joints as they are for pressing ball joints in and out. http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...cles-4065.html
#21
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I went through this learning experience 2 years ago so I understand what you're dealing with. Sounds like you could also benefit from a 1971 Chassis Service Manual and Assembly Manual? They're the Bibles of Oldsmobile repair and restoration.
#22
If you're looking at replacing the lower ball joint, you may as well do the uppers at the same time. This is much easier to do when you have the control arms off the car, so take out the springs you just installed...... And since they're off the car? Those front bushings can all be replaced. If they're original they're past due. Also check out the sway bar bushings and link kit. Chances are those bushings are toast too. But they're much easier to get at and replace.
I went through this learning experience 2 years ago so I understand what you're dealing with. Sounds like you could also benefit from a 1971 Chassis Service Manual and Assembly Manual? They're the Bibles of Oldsmobile repair and restoration.
I went through this learning experience 2 years ago so I understand what you're dealing with. Sounds like you could also benefit from a 1971 Chassis Service Manual and Assembly Manual? They're the Bibles of Oldsmobile repair and restoration.
#23
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Never heard that term. We just call it the MAW's. (Might As Well's) I'm not saying he has to do all that work, it was just a suggestion to fix all the parts that may need to be addressed while the car is apart in the first place. Saves going back in later and undoing all the work that's already been completed. Of course safety, time, $$$, space, and needs are motivating factors too.
#25
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#26
Yeah, dammit....may as well just do the bushings too.... I like polyurethane. Torch out the rubber and stuff in polyurethane into the shells. Real easy stuff. Trying to finger froont suspension one at a time is time consuming and a real pain, especially dealing with springs. At least do the lower control arms and bushings. The uppers are easier with the rent a tool.
#28
ok ive replaced the ball joints as well. im not going to do the control arms at the time but I have another issue... my car seems to be sitting high on the passenger side. maybe by a half inch or so. Am I going to have to remove this spring again??
#30
:-) and it is a good time to blast and paint the control arms as well... and redo the brakes while all that is out.... NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
THE MAW's!
I had the front up high on jack stands, and I just lowered the control arms as far as they would go, and kicked the coil out while sitting behind the front wheel well... I thought it would be exciting, but one of the coils was broken and the other one was sagging a lot! The new moog springs (supposed to be the correct ones) had the car sitting up an inch or 2 in the front!
THE MAW's!
I had the front up high on jack stands, and I just lowered the control arms as far as they would go, and kicked the coil out while sitting behind the front wheel well... I thought it would be exciting, but one of the coils was broken and the other one was sagging a lot! The new moog springs (supposed to be the correct ones) had the car sitting up an inch or 2 in the front!
Last edited by kitfoxdave; September 27th, 2013 at 01:40 PM. Reason: added stupidity...
#31
Thanks again guys!! I have the springs in and I think it's pretty level now!! Classicolds is my new church!! All u guys rock!!!! But I think I'm going to be changing my name to "just my luck". I took the car out for a spin to see how she would ride and I swear I did something to the tranny!! Dammit dammit dammit!! Please check out my new thread about my tranny and lend a little advice!! This car is fighting me every step of the way!
#34
Good read. I'm tackling this same issue with my 1963 Dynamic. Neither the top or lower ball joints will separate. Castle nuts loosened with a jack placed under the control arm, but not touching it. I didn't spend too much time on it last night, since it was getting late. This evening, I'll get a little more agressive, tie off the spring and might bring a torch home to help out with some heat.
#37
#39
While a pickle fork works for most people, it's not good choice if you're just separating the joint and want to reuse the tie rod or ball joint. It will destroy the rubber boots. I've used the shop hammer method successfully for over 40 years and don't even own a pickle fork.
#40