Bravada Problem Diagnose
#1
Bravada Problem Diagnose
Repair shops not sure what to fix so won't try untill I break down again. Wife drove 2001 V6 last Thurs, came home went to leave 5 min later, won't start. I get home 1 hr later truck will crank forever but not start. Plan to flatbed in the morning but try again, fires right up. Drive to shop and die twice. No warning lights, just dies. Throw in N restart both times. Leave truck at shop over weekend and they get nothing to go wrong. No codes or anything register. Fuel pump was replaced at 150,000, now has 185,000 miles. When the pump went though, it went. They think its possibly that. I'm leaning towards crank sensor but would think that would show in scan. Any thoughts? Hate to die in boonieville. Pat
#2
A crank sensor won't show up on a scan as a trouble code. I'm not even sure you can veiw voltages from a crank sensor on a OBD II scanner when the engine is running. It very well could be your crank sensor. Has the problem come up when it is wet outside? Some GM cars have crank sensor faults that pop up when it rains.
#4
I'll ask in the morning if that came up. Thursday was the first time this happened and we finally got rain Sunday! The shop doesn't want the shotgun approach but I don't need stranded. It doesn't seem to be a fuel delivery prob as I have heard the pump each time or at least what sounds like the pump energizing before hitting the starter. Clogged line would seem to stay clogged. Injectors don't act this way before going do they?
#5
Based on what my 97 did, ignition switch.
Also based on my 97, when a Bravada (or ANY S10-based vehicle) hits 150k it's time to unload it. That truck fell apart when it hit that miles and it quickly became cost-prohibitive to fix.
'Course if it hadn't nickle-and-dimed me on stuff before that point, I might be a little more understanding. For what I paid for it and what it cost me per mile to drive, it was the single biggest POS I have ever owned. I had a Dodge K-car at the same time that was 3x the vehicle the Bravada was for reliability and repair. Shame the deer didn't get the Bravada instead of the Dodge...
Also based on my 97, when a Bravada (or ANY S10-based vehicle) hits 150k it's time to unload it. That truck fell apart when it hit that miles and it quickly became cost-prohibitive to fix.
'Course if it hadn't nickle-and-dimed me on stuff before that point, I might be a little more understanding. For what I paid for it and what it cost me per mile to drive, it was the single biggest POS I have ever owned. I had a Dodge K-car at the same time that was 3x the vehicle the Bravada was for reliability and repair. Shame the deer didn't get the Bravada instead of the Dodge...
#6
In terms of the RPM code, if the car is running the code shows, right? But if the car is not running it still shows? The shop wants to be able to test for the problem but the car won't stay dead like the first time where it took to the next day. Heck, I've driven to work this week with zero failures. Any other tips?
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Hetman
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August 24th, 2012 01:19 PM