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Old Oct 22, 2013 | 10:58 AM
  #1  
rktolds's Avatar
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From: Olympia,WA
Air compressor water trap question

I'm setting up my shop and want to see what other have done with black pipe. How have you kept water out of your system? I have a blast cabinet and will paint parts too. If you have pics that'd be great. I am a visual person. Thanks for the help.
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #2  
Allan R's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Just install an air dryer at least 15' from the compressor to remove moisture.
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 11:12 AM
  #3  
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From: Poteau, Ok
I used a down pipe to trap the water with an automatic drain and a tube to exit outside. I also used and automatic drain at the bottom of the tank.
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #4  
BackInTheGame's Avatar
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From: Colorado - Front Range
Shop Air

I'm going to be going down this path in the next few months myself.

Oldcutlass, I've not heard of an automatic drain for the water. What/How/etc., if you don't mind sharing.
Old Oct 22, 2013 | 01:48 PM
  #5  
oldcutlass's Avatar
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From: Poteau, Ok
Something like this:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/CON...302?Pid=search

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WIL...T04?Pid=search
Old Oct 23, 2013 | 09:55 AM
  #6  
BackInTheGame's Avatar
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From: Colorado - Front Range
Automatic Drains

Those are cool, I never even suspected such things existed! Thanks for sharing.
Rich
Old Oct 23, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #7  
joe_padavano's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Northern VA
Automatic drains are cool but not necessary. A manual ball valve works fine (assuming you remember to drain it regularly, of course). Here are two diagrams from TP Tools that are a good tutorial on compressed air piping design.



Old Oct 23, 2013 | 12:48 PM
  #8  
gearheads78's Avatar
car guy
 
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Posts: 5,675
From: Dallas TX
What tells those when to open? I have only seen electric ones on a timer.
Old Oct 23, 2013 | 05:42 PM
  #9  
Sampson's Avatar
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From: Fuquay Varina NC
I sell industrial A/C and also design air systems. Joe and Eric are both correct. Just two different approaches to the same problem. Jos's approach is the most simple method. Water being heavier than air settles to the lowest point in the system. Open the manual drain valve daily and let the water flow until air comes out and you are good. Just make sure you remember to open the drain daily. Eric's method takes the guesswork out and drains the system automatically. There are 2 types of auto drains: timed drain, which opens by a preset timer, and float drain, which opens when the moisture level lifts a float valve off the seat. When designing a system always have the drop from the header come from the top of the pipe. A drop would be a hose or pipe that hooks to the tool. A bit of trivia about moisture from compressors. A 25 hp compressor running continuously will produce up to 18 gal. of water a day!
Old Oct 23, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #10  
MDchanic's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: The Hudson Valley
I personally like the electric chillers that condense the water out.

Don't have one, but I like 'em.

- Eric
Old Oct 23, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #11  
rktolds's Avatar
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From: Olympia,WA
Thanks guys. That TP set up gives me some ideas. I have a water separator and pressure reg/filter set up. Now I can picture how to set them up.
Old Oct 24, 2013 | 05:50 AM
  #12  
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From: Poteau, Ok
There's a 100 + ways to set up a pneumatic plumbing system and almost as many to get moisture out. The price can range from cheap to a whole lot of $$$$$. I'm a big fan of coalescing filters and drains, there is nothing worse than getting your air tools and paint guns all sludged up with dirt and grime.
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