Anyone ever put 1/2 floor pans in a 67 Cutlass? I am putting both sides in my sons 67 F85 two door post and they do not meet in the middle. They are nested inside the depressions in the floor supports so I know they are located in the correct place. The gap is worse in the front and nearly meets in the rear. There is no way they could be the correct width since they fit the supports spot on. I will have to make pieces to fill in the center gap. I feel they were not stamped correctly but it is too late to exchange them.

 

No One?

 

Yep, I went thru the same crap. What a PITA. I will never use pieces to replace the whole floor again. I will pay extra for the 1 piece unit.

 

I could sell you some solid floors that are original to put in it.

You can reach me at
lemoldsnut@aol.com
or call me between 8 am and 8 pm west coast time 541-815-4363

Thanks
Larry

 

Thanks Larry, but I have already got these installed except for putting in the strip down the middle that I will have to fabricate.

RandyS, I would have done the full pan but I didn't want to pull the body off of the frame. That is the only to get full pans installed. They won't go through the doors or through the windows.

 

edzolz, where did you get your floor pans from?

 

I could probably do a center section too if you end up wanting to get it that way.

Larry

 

Hmmmm....
I learned today
do not hesitate to remove the frame if the job calls for it. It's only money. What else can you do with it, leave it to ungrateful kids?

Do not buy repro parts if you can get a good used original panel.

If you want to skimp, just pop rivet some HVAC galvanized in place and trowel some roof sealer over it. I kid you not, I extended the life of a great '71 Cutlass with just that method.

 

Bought them at the Pate swap meet two years ago. Don't remember the vendor.

 

This is done intentionally. The intent of the half floors is that you do one side at a time and retain the center hump as a registration point. If your floor is so bad that you need to cut it all out, get a one-piece floor pan.

 

Some picts will help, but yes as said the typical floor patch panels can be had for each front or each side rear, or front and rear in one piece for each side, or the entire floor pan. I have some picts of my new flors in my 67Turnpike Cruiser thread in Major Builds. A car would have to be very bad to need the center section or center hump but it does make for a neater install.

 

So, when you cut the floor out, leave a 1" strip down the middle? 4"?

??

 

The right way to do it is you dry fit the replacement pan into place and trace around it. If you are butt welding, cut and fit to the line. If you are overlapping, leave an appropriate flange width. These Chinesium pans are hand-trimmed and not identical, so you need to hand fit each one. Frankly, I only use as much of the Chinesium part as necessary. I'd rather keep more of the good OEM metal than just arbitrarily cut it out.

 

Hey:
Just finished this exact job on my 66 Cutlass 2 door sedan. My repop floor pans fit pretty good, like Joe commented above, cut out the rotten portion of the original pans. I dry fit them till they were pretty close and drew a line around the top of the pan. I then removed them and used an angle grinder to clean to the bare metal since I was welding the replacements in. Replace the fitted pan and draw a line around the top, take them back out and remove the OEM floor approx. 1" below the line. I then used #8 x 5/8" self drilling screws spaced about 4" apart and screwed the whole assembly together, you may need to add a few screws to help pull down stubborn spots. If you are welding them in, remove the screws after you finish and weld the screw hole shut, I then used seam sealer on the top and bottom sides of the floor to seal out the elements, even though it will probably never see bad weather again. See no problem, shouldn't take more than few minutes. LOL Good luck and walk away for a few when you get frustrated and you will get frustrated.
Thanks Ron

 

These were stamped in a die that trimmed the edge as it stamped, not hand trimmed. The evidence was obvious by the slight rolled even burr around the edge.

 

you wouldn't happen to have doors for a 64 cutlass hardtop/convertible would you?

thanks brad

 

I replaced the floor in my 66 442 with halves I got from Year One.. They overlapped the center hump from the rear all the way to about 4" up the trans hump.. My trans hump was bad also so I got a donor for that part,, Year One's are a lot longer than most also, from just below the rear seat to about 8" up where the feet would rest.. I butt welded it all.. A lot more work but the finished product is worth it... Bill