Hi,
I am removing rust on the floor pans and so I will need to repaint and prime and prepare the bare metal I am replacing and minor places where I sanded some surface rust, ...

It is a convertible and an old one so it is bound to have a little water there and eventually rust so someoen advised me to put Epoxy primer.
Great except that I do not have a spray gun nor do I want ot buy one just to do the small area under the back seat.

I know you will all say spray gun is the way to go but really I do not ahve the mean for a spray gun so I am looking for primer in a spray can

I am reading that the self etching is not too bad.

what would you recommend?

1- self etching primer
2- a primer sealer
3- some black paint

do you have brands ? names you know works well together ?
oh and where can I find these ?

I am also gona have to paint from under the car the little patch I am soldering in.
does that same combinaison will work as well ?

 

If no one is going to be staring at it I'd buy a qt of brush on stuff.
http://www.carpaintonline.com/PPG_Et...p177_76_p.html


Fun chart if you're bored
http://www.carpaintonline.com/problemsolving.phped.

And a bunch of oldsmobile black paint matches.
http://www.carpaintonline.com/paints...=56&ModelId=56

 

If this is an area that won't be seen, I'd go with a good rust encapsulator like POR-15 or one of the equivalent products.

 

it's not a bad idea I didn't think about it but since it's under the back seat and under the car I could put the epoxy primer with a brush

can I put the same product under the car. I mean where I am gona patch the metal I need to paint under the car as well to protect it or is there something better for under the car ?

 

I like your idea best. I'm not a fan of POR 15. First, it's nasty stuff, I've heard of people having over exposure reactions to it. (Flu like symptoms) If you do use it do it in a well ventilated area. And have an old fan blowing on you. A resperator would be a good idea too.

Second, I help a kid at the CC replace his rear floor pans. They had 'painted' the floor with POR 15. Where we made the cuts with an abrasive wheel the stuff peeled off.

Get your materials at an automotive paint supplier. I'd use a rust converter first. You likely didn't get all the rust. Then an epoxy primer, 2 part urethane. Also get a couple of small mixing cups while your there. Make sure they tell you the mix ratio for the primer. Most places will write it on the can for you. You'll still need good ventilation. And the fan, if you have one. The resperator is still a good idea. The paint supplier should have a disposable unit for around $15 or so.
PPG's DP series epoxy primer is good stuff. Two good coats and you shouldn't need a top coat where you're using it.

Don

 

the floor pan I am replacing needs to be painted in the car and outside the car right and 2 coat no need for a top coat ?

 

If you use the good stuff, 2 part epoxy primer from the paint store it should be fine w/o a top coat. It's not porus like the old primers. Rattle cans are not any better. Self etching is old school and doesn't really have any place in modern paint & bodywork.

So weld your new panels in, sand everything, hit it with a rust converter, wait the time spec'd by the converter (they're all different, read & follow the directions) mix a small patch of primer & brush it on. Give it several hours to dry. Then mix & brush on a second coat.

I didn't mention, there is a time window on this stuff. PPG DP is 24 hrs. Ask about the window on the stuff you buy. Normally with a spray gun you would shoot the epoxy, let it flash (dry) then cover that with high build primer, within the recoat window. If the window expires you hit it with another coat of epoxy (no sanding) then the next coat, HB primer or topcoat within the new window.

If you do want to topcoat use a single stage urethane.

Expect some sticker shock, $50 or so for a quart. The paint I plan to use on my Jetstar is over $400 for a gallon and that doesn't include clear.

I'm no expert on this, just a hobbyist. I can direct you to a board where professional bodymen will answer your questions.

Don

 

This applies to ANY modern paints- epoxy, rust encapsulator, etching primer, etc. Any paint with isocyanides requires a supplied air breathing system.

As will any paint applied to a surface that has grease, dirt, or other contaminants.

 

I bougnt a marine primer for boat that can be applied on bare metal
why marine ? because you can brush it on
4 coats
epoxy base.
perfect

 

Pinky,
I work for a major automotive paint manufacturer, and I gotta agree with Padavano. POR-15 is the way to go. I've used it myself, it comes in a variety of colors, and is bulletproof if used properly. PPG makes a nice product, but to use properly, it's much more involved. Safety, as always, is first priority. And no, I don't work for POR-15 or PPG.

 

 

415 is good stuff. It is very caustic though. I would certainly get a good resperator and also wear clothes that cover you whole body. Heavy rubber gloves are a must. If you do not want something to peel off you must prep it correctly. no grease,dirt etc. I also use acetone,Laquer thinner or brake clean to remove grease before applying any rust inhibitor or paint. I believe I spent 4 to 8 hours degreasing, Steaming and power washing the underside of my car, before I applyed the 415. The extra time in the prep was well worth the effort.

tim72