350 acting up
#41
#42
Yes, save them. You may even want to put them back in. Those bosch plats are not cheap, and damn near indestructible. I know people that have gotten 50-100K miles out of a set, and more if the rest of the engine is working properly. Those look pretty good to me.
-Jeff
-Jeff
#43
yea , if I knew that those were platinum , I never would of replaced them .....I would of cleaned them up and re-gapped them....which is what i will probably do anyway. I just so happened to buy the cheapest plug , when I had the best ones in there .
#44
I mean, yes, after 100,000 miles, you're supposed to replace them, but they don't erode in nearly the same way as regular plugs, so, I'd say keep 'em and clean 'em up if they don't look bad.
Exactly which plugs are those, by the way?
Multiple searches show no Bosch platinum plugs recommended for Olds motors, but the WR10FC seems to be the conventional plug type called for, but they don't make a WR10FP, so it looks as though the WR9FP would be a platinum equivalent, in a slightly colder plug.
If my recollection is correct, about ten years ago, platinum plugs cost about $6 each (x8=$48), compared to regular plugs at about $1.50 each (x8=$12), which is why it seems a bit surprising that you'd put in platinum.
- Eric
#45
also, I would not regap or clean them. They are pretty delicate at the tips, and you can break the porcelain there rendering them useless. In the shape that the look in the pics, I would reinstall them as-is. I've never regapped one. if you want to check the gap, do so carefully, and then just put them back in the heads.
-Jeff
-Jeff
#46
also, I would not regap or clean them. They are pretty delicate at the tips, and you can break the porcelain there rendering them useless. In the shape that the look in the pics, I would reinstall them as-is. I've never regapped one. if you want to check the gap, do so carefully, and then just put them back in the heads.
-Jeff
-Jeff
#47
As a general rule, platinum plugs pretty much never go bad.
I mean, yes, after 100,000 miles, you're supposed to replace them, but they don't erode in nearly the same way as regular plugs, so, I'd say keep 'em and clean 'em up if they don't look bad.
Exactly which plugs are those, by the way?
Multiple searches show no Bosch platinum plugs recommended for Olds motors, but the WR10FC seems to be the conventional plug type called for, but they don't make a WR10FP, so it looks as though the WR9FP would be a platinum equivalent, in a slightly colder plug.
If my recollection is correct, about ten years ago, platinum plugs cost about $6 each (x8=$48), compared to regular plugs at about $1.50 each (x8=$12), which is why it seems a bit surprising that you'd put in platinum.
- Eric
I mean, yes, after 100,000 miles, you're supposed to replace them, but they don't erode in nearly the same way as regular plugs, so, I'd say keep 'em and clean 'em up if they don't look bad.
Exactly which plugs are those, by the way?
Multiple searches show no Bosch platinum plugs recommended for Olds motors, but the WR10FC seems to be the conventional plug type called for, but they don't make a WR10FP, so it looks as though the WR9FP would be a platinum equivalent, in a slightly colder plug.
If my recollection is correct, about ten years ago, platinum plugs cost about $6 each (x8=$48), compared to regular plugs at about $1.50 each (x8=$12), which is why it seems a bit surprising that you'd put in platinum.
- Eric
#48
#49
I get WR9FP Germany R6 091 Bosch Platinum......thats all the markings on the plug.
#50
WR9FP.
I'll just keep that number written down.
It looks like Bosch believes it's heat range corresponds to both the R45 and R46, so it should be good for most, if not all, of our Olds engines, with a very small chance of fouling in a low-revving, low load motor (say, lots and lots of idling).
Thanks,
- Eric
I'll just keep that number written down.
It looks like Bosch believes it's heat range corresponds to both the R45 and R46, so it should be good for most, if not all, of our Olds engines, with a very small chance of fouling in a low-revving, low load motor (say, lots and lots of idling).
Thanks,
- Eric
#51
WR9FP.
I'll just keep that number written down.
It looks like Bosch believes it's heat range corresponds to both the R45 and R46, so it should be good for most, if not all, of our Olds engines, with a very small chance of fouling in a low-revving, low load motor (say, lots and lots of idling).
Thanks,
- Eric
I'll just keep that number written down.
It looks like Bosch believes it's heat range corresponds to both the R45 and R46, so it should be good for most, if not all, of our Olds engines, with a very small chance of fouling in a low-revving, low load motor (say, lots and lots of idling).
Thanks,
- Eric
#53
I tried and found no such info on this site....probably did not look hard enough. I will have to dig the Chiltons out....in the past I would just snug the bolts so it dont mess the valve cover up....I replaced the gaskets last summer and it was about winter time when I had to re-tighten them , and they still seem to leak a little...
#54
Not trying to bust your chops here by any means, but some simple suggestions.
Yes, you may be new here, but I am as well. I've been following your thread and posting in here occasionally, and where you may be running into problems is that you seem to be asking some VERY basic questions without trying to find the info yourself. Spark plug gap, torque specs, etc. I've already found there are a lot of people here that are willing to help out when you run into a brick wall on a weird question, etc. but most of the folks here, I assume (me included) have been working on cars either for a hobby, or for a living for many years. There's all kinds of information available out there via shop manuals, assembly manuals, internet, etc.
When you pop in here and start asking questions that should be easy to locate the answers for, you're scaring off a lot of potential help, as most folks are a bit hesitant to get involved, as they don't want to hold your hand and walk you through the easy steps. We all have our own projects going as well, and taking the time to go out to the garage or the den to find the right shop manual and then look up the info only to come back here and post it takes time, and lots of us are lazy too!
For the basic stuff, try a little harder to find the information on your own, and then when you get stuck, ask for more assistance. You'l find that most of the people here are friendly and willing to help out as long as you show that you're doing your part to become more educated on the subject.
For instance, there's a HUGE technical library available free of charge here:
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...late.cgi?id=11
This may have what you need. The reason you're not finding some of the stuff here at ClassicOldsmobile, is that it's already archived elsewhere online, and server space to house it all take time effort, and money. If someone else is providing the service, it makes little sense to duplicate it here.
You also mentioned you have a chilton's manual. Read it cover to cover. I know when I was working on a specific project, mine were always handy for reference, and the pages got dog-eared and greasy from having them in an engine bay, on the floor of the shop, where ever it was that I needed the information. Read every inch of most of them I own several times, even if it wasn't something that pertained to the current project situation. That way if I ran into a problem, I knew exactly where to go for the information. If the info is not in there, get a haynes manual. If it's not there, go out to Ebay and get the correct dealer manual for that car. I have a bookshelf of old manuals. Most of them are now available archived on CD and fairly cheap.
Most of us are glad to help out, but try and help yourself out a little first.
Yes, in the time it took me to write this, I could have gone out and found torque specs for you, but it comes around to the old adage:
"Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day, Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime."
and FWIW, here's a set of complete torque specs. Found it in about 3 seconds flat. Google is your friend!
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=olds+350+valve+cover+torque+specs
and so are we.
-Jeff
Yes, you may be new here, but I am as well. I've been following your thread and posting in here occasionally, and where you may be running into problems is that you seem to be asking some VERY basic questions without trying to find the info yourself. Spark plug gap, torque specs, etc. I've already found there are a lot of people here that are willing to help out when you run into a brick wall on a weird question, etc. but most of the folks here, I assume (me included) have been working on cars either for a hobby, or for a living for many years. There's all kinds of information available out there via shop manuals, assembly manuals, internet, etc.
When you pop in here and start asking questions that should be easy to locate the answers for, you're scaring off a lot of potential help, as most folks are a bit hesitant to get involved, as they don't want to hold your hand and walk you through the easy steps. We all have our own projects going as well, and taking the time to go out to the garage or the den to find the right shop manual and then look up the info only to come back here and post it takes time, and lots of us are lazy too!
For the basic stuff, try a little harder to find the information on your own, and then when you get stuck, ask for more assistance. You'l find that most of the people here are friendly and willing to help out as long as you show that you're doing your part to become more educated on the subject.
For instance, there's a HUGE technical library available free of charge here:
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...late.cgi?id=11
This may have what you need. The reason you're not finding some of the stuff here at ClassicOldsmobile, is that it's already archived elsewhere online, and server space to house it all take time effort, and money. If someone else is providing the service, it makes little sense to duplicate it here.
You also mentioned you have a chilton's manual. Read it cover to cover. I know when I was working on a specific project, mine were always handy for reference, and the pages got dog-eared and greasy from having them in an engine bay, on the floor of the shop, where ever it was that I needed the information. Read every inch of most of them I own several times, even if it wasn't something that pertained to the current project situation. That way if I ran into a problem, I knew exactly where to go for the information. If the info is not in there, get a haynes manual. If it's not there, go out to Ebay and get the correct dealer manual for that car. I have a bookshelf of old manuals. Most of them are now available archived on CD and fairly cheap.
Most of us are glad to help out, but try and help yourself out a little first.
Yes, in the time it took me to write this, I could have gone out and found torque specs for you, but it comes around to the old adage:
"Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day, Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime."
and FWIW, here's a set of complete torque specs. Found it in about 3 seconds flat. Google is your friend!
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=olds+350+valve+cover+torque+specs
and so are we.
-Jeff
#55
Not trying to bust your chops here by any means, but some simple suggestions.
Yes, you may be new here, but I am as well. I've been following your thread and posting in here occasionally, and where you may be running into problems is that you seem to be asking some VERY basic questions without trying to find the info yourself. Spark plug gap, torque specs, etc. I've already found there are a lot of people here that are willing to help out when you run into a brick wall on a weird question, etc. but most of the folks here, I assume (me included) have been working on cars either for a hobby, or for a living for many years. There's all kinds of information available out there via shop manuals, assembly manuals, internet, etc.
When you pop in here and start asking questions that should be easy to locate the answers for, you're scaring off a lot of potential help, as most folks are a bit hesitant to get involved, as they don't want to hold your hand and walk you through the easy steps. We all have our own projects going as well, and taking the time to go out to the garage or the den to find the right shop manual and then look up the info only to come back here and post it takes time, and lots of us are lazy too!
For the basic stuff, try a little harder to find the information on your own, and then when you get stuck, ask for more assistance. You'l find that most of the people here are friendly and willing to help out as long as you show that you're doing your part to become more educated on the subject.
For instance, there's a HUGE technical library available free of charge here:
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...late.cgi?id=11
This may have what you need. The reason you're not finding some of the stuff here at ClassicOldsmobile, is that it's already archived elsewhere online, and server space to house it all take time effort, and money. If someone else is providing the service, it makes little sense to duplicate it here.
You also mentioned you have a chilton's manual. Read it cover to cover. I know when I was working on a specific project, mine were always handy for reference, and the pages got dog-eared and greasy from having them in an engine bay, on the floor of the shop, where ever it was that I needed the information. Read every inch of most of them I own several times, even if it wasn't something that pertained to the current project situation. That way if I ran into a problem, I knew exactly where to go for the information. If the info is not in there, get a haynes manual. If it's not there, go out to Ebay and get the correct dealer manual for that car. I have a bookshelf of old manuals. Most of them are now available archived on CD and fairly cheap.
Most of us are glad to help out, but try and help yourself out a little first.
Yes, in the time it took me to write this, I could have gone out and found torque specs for you, but it comes around to the old adage:
"Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day, Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime."
and FWIW, here's a set of complete torque specs. Found it in about 3 seconds flat. Google is your friend!
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=olds+350+valve+cover+torque+specs
and so are we.
-Jeff
Yes, you may be new here, but I am as well. I've been following your thread and posting in here occasionally, and where you may be running into problems is that you seem to be asking some VERY basic questions without trying to find the info yourself. Spark plug gap, torque specs, etc. I've already found there are a lot of people here that are willing to help out when you run into a brick wall on a weird question, etc. but most of the folks here, I assume (me included) have been working on cars either for a hobby, or for a living for many years. There's all kinds of information available out there via shop manuals, assembly manuals, internet, etc.
When you pop in here and start asking questions that should be easy to locate the answers for, you're scaring off a lot of potential help, as most folks are a bit hesitant to get involved, as they don't want to hold your hand and walk you through the easy steps. We all have our own projects going as well, and taking the time to go out to the garage or the den to find the right shop manual and then look up the info only to come back here and post it takes time, and lots of us are lazy too!
For the basic stuff, try a little harder to find the information on your own, and then when you get stuck, ask for more assistance. You'l find that most of the people here are friendly and willing to help out as long as you show that you're doing your part to become more educated on the subject.
For instance, there's a HUGE technical library available free of charge here:
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/cgi-b...late.cgi?id=11
This may have what you need. The reason you're not finding some of the stuff here at ClassicOldsmobile, is that it's already archived elsewhere online, and server space to house it all take time effort, and money. If someone else is providing the service, it makes little sense to duplicate it here.
You also mentioned you have a chilton's manual. Read it cover to cover. I know when I was working on a specific project, mine were always handy for reference, and the pages got dog-eared and greasy from having them in an engine bay, on the floor of the shop, where ever it was that I needed the information. Read every inch of most of them I own several times, even if it wasn't something that pertained to the current project situation. That way if I ran into a problem, I knew exactly where to go for the information. If the info is not in there, get a haynes manual. If it's not there, go out to Ebay and get the correct dealer manual for that car. I have a bookshelf of old manuals. Most of them are now available archived on CD and fairly cheap.
Most of us are glad to help out, but try and help yourself out a little first.
Yes, in the time it took me to write this, I could have gone out and found torque specs for you, but it comes around to the old adage:
"Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day, Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime."
and FWIW, here's a set of complete torque specs. Found it in about 3 seconds flat. Google is your friend!
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=olds+350+valve+cover+torque+specs
and so are we.
-Jeff
Last edited by oldsguybry; May 22nd, 2011 at 09:03 AM.
#57
#58
#59
No Knock
Today I must of put 40 + miles on the 72 CS , and no knock what-so-ever....kind of hard to beleive after driving for that long in 80 degree weather that there was no knock...is it possible that the tune up tamed it down enough to where I cant even hear it anymore ? weird because the knock went away after I completed the tune up.
#60
I think its bad to be a noob here , and poor....totally bummed , I apoligize that my threads are not as exciting as others , there is no way im gonna attempt any of this , because if i venture into unchartered territory , and no body helps or gives advise , im screwed.....I did not want to post this , but I seen the same thing happen to others....maybe I have to fit the click first ?
I personally believe that everyone here has been patient and have more than jumped through hoops to help you out. I beleive that if you had listened and performed the recommended items in the beginning of this post then we would not be having this conversation now.
Yes as mentioned above all the minor specifications you asked about are all over the internet and archived on this site. I do understand there are different experience levels on this site. So prior to undertaking items that are above your experience level there must be some research done on your part, into specifications, tools, parts, etc... required to perform a specific task.
We can tolerate ignorance, but using an older car as primary transportation with your skill level and financial situation is absurd!
#61
I'm not trying to be an a$$hole here, but...
I personally believe that everyone here has been patient and have more than jumped through hoops to help you out. I beleive that if you had listened and performed the recommended items in the beginning of this post then we would not be having this conversation now.
Yes as mentioned above all the minor specifications you asked about are all over the internet and archived on this site. I do understand there are different experience levels on this site. So prior to undertaking items that are above your experience level there must be some research done on your part, into specifications, tools, parts, etc... required to perform a specific task.
We can tolerate ignorance, but using an older car as primary transportation with your skill level and financial situation is absurd!
I personally believe that everyone here has been patient and have more than jumped through hoops to help you out. I beleive that if you had listened and performed the recommended items in the beginning of this post then we would not be having this conversation now.
Yes as mentioned above all the minor specifications you asked about are all over the internet and archived on this site. I do understand there are different experience levels on this site. So prior to undertaking items that are above your experience level there must be some research done on your part, into specifications, tools, parts, etc... required to perform a specific task.
We can tolerate ignorance, but using an older car as primary transportation with your skill level and financial situation is absurd!
Last edited by oldsguybry; May 23rd, 2011 at 09:57 AM.
#62
im thinking at this point , I may as well not bother to post anymore , but I will try to help other noobs like myself if I know something they dont and of course read ,read read.
#63
Don't let the harda--es on this site discourage you. It is unfortunate that when you come here for help and a little camaraderie that you were bashed. if others on this site can't help with getting nasty, then maybe they should be the ones to stop posting. There is nothing wrong with constructive criticism, but chasing off other Olds owners from this site defeats the purpose of this forum.
#64
Don't let the harda--es on this site discourage you. It is unfortunate that when you come here for help and a little camaraderie that you were bashed. if others on this site can't help with getting nasty, then maybe they should be the ones to stop posting. There is nothing wrong with constructive criticism, but chasing off other Olds owners from this site defeats the purpose of this forum.
#65
Keep up the questions. Yes it does deviate from time to time but quite frankly if I didn't have family help to answer the same questions you have I'd be totally lost. As a newb I've read and read and read like a drunken bas**** here but honestly it's hard for me. I can put a bloody network infrastructure together easier than trying to put some of these puzzles together. My brother looks at me sometimes like I'm on crack with some of the questions I have!!! LOL HOWEVER that's what makes this fun so don't get discouraged. There's many good folks here and a ton of stuff. Be patient and the pieces will fall into place. I hop around like a 10 year old kid when the light bulb comes on.
Last edited by atkinsom; May 23rd, 2011 at 11:18 AM.
#66
I'm not trying to be an a$$hole here, but...
I personally believe that everyone here has been patient and have more than jumped through hoops to help you out. I beleive that if you had listened and performed the recommended items in the beginning of this post then we would not be having this conversation now.
Yes as mentioned above all the minor specifications you asked about are all over the internet and archived on this site. I do understand there are different experience levels on this site. So prior to undertaking items that are above your experience level there must be some research done on your part, into specifications, tools, parts, etc... required to perform a specific task.
We can tolerate ignorance, but using an older car as primary transportation with your skill level and financial situation is absurd!
I personally believe that everyone here has been patient and have more than jumped through hoops to help you out. I beleive that if you had listened and performed the recommended items in the beginning of this post then we would not be having this conversation now.
Yes as mentioned above all the minor specifications you asked about are all over the internet and archived on this site. I do understand there are different experience levels on this site. So prior to undertaking items that are above your experience level there must be some research done on your part, into specifications, tools, parts, etc... required to perform a specific task.
We can tolerate ignorance, but using an older car as primary transportation with your skill level and financial situation is absurd!
#67
thanks for the backing , but I beleive its me too unfortunately. I have a hard time dealing with things properly at times....( wrong type of forum to go into detail ) I think thats part of it...there have been a lot of bad things going on for me right now.....after all that was said here , its to late for redemption I think
#68
x2
Oh, and there's a thread in the big blocks section on 350 vs. 455 brackets. Looks like you might be able to get away with it. Might run into a problem with the water pump shaft depth, but that's a reasonably easy fix as long as you know what's going on with the different depths and which one you'll need for the correct belt alignment.
-Jeff
Oh, and there's a thread in the big blocks section on 350 vs. 455 brackets. Looks like you might be able to get away with it. Might run into a problem with the water pump shaft depth, but that's a reasonably easy fix as long as you know what's going on with the different depths and which one you'll need for the correct belt alignment.
-Jeff
#69
much appreciated guys , I really mean it......oh , I tried to look up the info that I need instead of asking in a post and the WIKI dont work ?.............really? lol
Last edited by oldsguybry; May 24th, 2011 at 01:41 PM.
#70
well , after re-reading this I can see now where this thread went south , and it was doing ok up until the second page.... I did ask a couple of lazy questions that even bothered me now that I read it again.......anyhoot , the inspection / repair (if im going to even do this now) I know nothing about the inner workings of a 350 , but will have to wait for a month till I get stickers for the van so its legal again , then I can park 72 CS for awhile in my moms garage while I look things over. more than likely im going to just replace the oil pan , remove fenders , and re-coat the trunk pockets with POR-15....funny thing , now that the weather is nice out , the engine knock almost completely dissapeared and the car runs about 50% better then before ( carb probably needs adj or something ) im going to do the same thing with the 455 , lift it up and remove oil pan and see how rusty the cylinder walls are from the bottom ....affraid to take heads off and check cyl walls from the top , did that once with a friend on a 360 mopar engine , and you dont want to mix things up , thats for sure....if it turns out that the 455 looks ok , im going to put that in instead. who knows I may even post a few pics along the way.
#71
Sounds like a very reasonable plan.
... and the inner workings of a 350 are pretty much the same as any other American V-8 - some of the fancy performance modifications and specs may be slightly different, but it's basically just a big piece of iron with holes drilled in it...
Also, I agree with not pulling the heads unless you have to. At the very least, when you go from the factory head gasket to an aftermarket, you lose a couple of decimal points of compression.
- Eric
... and the inner workings of a 350 are pretty much the same as any other American V-8 - some of the fancy performance modifications and specs may be slightly different, but it's basically just a big piece of iron with holes drilled in it...
Also, I agree with not pulling the heads unless you have to. At the very least, when you go from the factory head gasket to an aftermarket, you lose a couple of decimal points of compression.
- Eric
#72
valve covers
I was wondering......I replaced the valve cover gaskets last summer , and recently they started leaking again..... I snugged the bolts a little and after a month of driving , only one corner is a little wet yet (still leaks ).......... the question : once it leaks and gets the gasket all wet with oil , do i have to remove the valve cover and clean the gasket off in order to stop the leak again ? im thinking that maybe once it gets wet with oil where it is suppose to seal , it wont seal there untill cleaned.
#73
Not really, if it's a regular gasket - it needs a bit of oil to help it expand and seal.
If it's one of those fancy silicone gaskets, it should be dry or it may ooze a tiny bit.
If you've got a regular gasket sealed with RTV silicone sealant, then the surfaces have to be dry or the sealant won't stick.
- Eric
If it's one of those fancy silicone gaskets, it should be dry or it may ooze a tiny bit.
If you've got a regular gasket sealed with RTV silicone sealant, then the surfaces have to be dry or the sealant won't stick.
- Eric
#74
thanks , this maybe my problem....I never used sealant , just used fine sewing thread to hold gasket in place so it would not be crooked or out of place when I put valve cover back on ( a cheap habit I got from my dad....RIP )
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April 18th, 2011 05:38 PM