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1972 Oldsmobile Toronado starter relay location

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Old February 2nd, 2023, 03:48 PM
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1972 Oldsmobile Toronado starter relay location

Had a starter issue with my 72 Toro, where the starter would not shut off when I tried to start the car. I am replacing the unit with a new AC Delco Starter and Starter Solenoid, and am wondering where the starter relay (if there is one outside of the starter/solenoid pack), is located. Any suggestions?
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 04:08 PM
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Great looking car!

No separate relay. Be careful with replacement starters, I always prefer to have mine rebuilt vs an exchange. You may have a genuine high torque version
and get lesser with the new one.

Good luck!!!

Last edited by Sugar Bear; February 2nd, 2023 at 04:16 PM.
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 04:11 PM
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Thanks man. I appreciate the advice. So I'm assuming replacing the starter/Solenoid will solve my issue since there is no seperate relay to worry about being melted or fried then.
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 04:15 PM
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Probably but the answer lies in whether or not the purple wire to the solenoid from the ignition switch was supplying power when it shouldn't have been from the ignition switch. Did the key spring back to the run position from the crank position when the key was released?
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
Probably but the answer lies in whether or not the purple wire to the solenoid from the ignition switch was supplying power when it shouldn't have been from the ignition switch. Did the key spring back to the run position from the crank position when the key was released?


Yes. Key sprung back. Starter kept going. Turned key completely off, starter kept going. Had to disconnect battery to stop starter. After I reconnected the battery, it did not start spinning the starter until I turned the key again, with same repeated results.
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 04:40 PM
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Also, the starter in the car is original. The one I bought is a remanufactured one, so I'm assuming same. It looks identical.
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 04:46 PM
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Keep the original. Look closely where a tab(s) come out of the starter field case with a screw through the tabs to the solenoid. How many tabs does the screw go through on each starter. Does the screw go through a spacer about 1/2" long or do the tabs line up with the end of the solenoid?
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
Keep the original. Look closely where a tab(s) come out of the starter field case with a screw through the tabs to the solenoid. How many tabs does the screw go through on each starter. Does the screw go through a spacer about 1/2" long or do the tabs line up with the end of the solenoid?

Haven't pulled it just yet. The one I got looks just like this one I saw on Ebay.

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Old February 2nd, 2023, 06:06 PM
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What happened is...the solenoid kept the starter engaged due to the drive overextending keeping the copper disc in the solenoid engaged on the positive bus studs.
Usually, the gear stop collar and or snap ring is busted, Other causes are a bad drive mechanism, the starter solenoid itself, or the starter end bell/nose is broken(flywheel end).

Find a good starter/alternator rebuilder and have them go through it. Older is better. Anything purchased from a will-fit house of chineasium is likely junk compared to OEM.
Don't turn OEM parts in for cores. Hopefully its not too late. You could call and tell them to hold it and buy it back. (recommended).

Make sure you get the correct high torque motor if you decide to roll the dice on a reman,

Clean both ends of both the large battery positive & negative cables.





High Torgue on the right vs Low. Note the motor body on the high torque is longer.



Last edited by droldsmorland; February 2nd, 2023 at 06:11 PM.
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 06:22 PM
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dr, I think it has to be the longer body AND have two tabs mated together under the screw to the solenoid to be a high torque. Someone please chime in if they know for certain.
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Sugar Bear
dr, I think it has to be the longer body AND have two tabs mated together under the screw to the solenoid to be a high torque. Someone please chime in if they know for certain.

When I get the old one out, I'll compare the two and see what I'm working with; I was planning on keeping the old one just in case (I've learned to keep old parts over the years on my classic builds)

I do not think the reman has the longer bolt stud, but will make sure to check. I really appreciate the info!!
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 06:53 PM
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Read through these posts for clarification on identifying a high torque starter.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tarter-169434/
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 07:23 PM
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Also, there's a number on that bad boy, just relay it to us.

Once you have pulled the starter, with battery disconnected, try taping up the downstream positive end of the batter cable, and reconnecting the battery. Put a multi meter on the starter 12v from the key and make sure it has power only on crank.

I do think the problem is in the starter. Clean up all bolts and terminals and grounding surfaces while under there. Also make sure you have the ground strap.
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Old February 2nd, 2023, 08:58 PM
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So the reman starter was in fact a high torque starter, exact duplicate to the one that was in the car. 3 wires connecting the starter (yellow, purple, and battery), and of course the 2 mounting bolts. No ground strap that I could see anywhere. Bolted right up, and started no problem. Took about an hour. Tested it thoroughly and made sure all connections were clean and tight.

I appreciate all the info guys. It helped a ton. Reman starter was $125 total, after taxes and no core charge.

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