Bozo needs help I have a 1968 f-85 Sport coupe which had a 350/AT last owner installed 455/ TH400 with aluminum heads and intake now front end sits about 4 in. to high.Some people say front end is supposed to be I higher Any suggestions on spring replacement would help . Also installed Ram Air and heard if you lower to much there can be tire rubbing issues. Thanks for help

 

Need more information. You have a lot of generalizations.

What size tires and rims ?
What offset on the rims ?

Did someone change the springs ? The car looks high to me on all four corners.

What year OAI scoops were installed ? The 1969 OAI scoops were a little different but should work. Any interference would show up when turned to the left or right lock. As a reference, the 1968 H/O used G70-14 tires with zero offset wheels and never had a problem rubbing.

I suggest you find the previous owners and ask them questions.

"Some people" may not be the best source of information.

 

Car changed owners twice so the guy I bought it from did not change engine or springs . Car has 225-70/14 front 275-60R15 rear 7in wide rims .It has after market OAI from Parts Place . .

 

I had a square set up with 275/15/60s all the way around. I had zero issues w/ rubbing on the scoops. I have no idea what year the scoop repops are/were. You have a sweet ride there! Good luck although I doubt you'll need it.

 

Dropped Spindles are a great way to lower, it moves the spindle higher in relation to lower ball joint. Which lowers the car but still maintains full suspension travel. Dropped spindles usually good for 2 inches, but also *may* require 15 inch front wheels. May also have disc brake brackets and be intended for disc brake conversion if you have drums. The other option is new lighter springs, which could be simple as a 6 cyl or small block non-A/C car. Not knowing what you have this may or may not be worth much lowering. The no-cost option is you can cut your springs, use a cutoff wheel, don't heat them with torch to lower. You can start with approximation of the distance between coils is about twice what you will get lowering by the cutoff coil. I.E. if the spacing is 1.5 inches on coil, then cutting one full coil will give approx 3 inches lowering. Cutting coils is free, but there is no going back if you cut too much. So start with less and check results. Cutting also makes the coils stiffer rate, by the percentage of coils removed. If 10 coils stock and you cut 1, it now has 9 coils and is 10% stiffer spring rate. Stiffer rate may be good if you think it is a bit soft currently.

 

Those custom wheel covers are likely to be the envy of the Olds community!😁

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I dropped my 68 using Hotchkis components. Very happy I did. The car handled very well after that only needing a quick ratio steering box to really take advantage of the handling. You may laugh but that 68 cornered, FLAT! Derek Bieri once said on his show, "If you don't think 2 inches is a lot, ask your ex-wife!" I nearly fell out of my chair! It really makes a difference. A much needed engineering assist to the guys at Olds in the 60s.

This looks like a brochure from Olds. Remember when their cars looked stretched or elongated for the ad?

 

Thanks for info is your car stock springs, and can I bother you for a side picture to see how car sits Sorry to be a pain . Vinny

 

Thanks for info

 

Beautiful car. Love the 1968 442 bought a Nocturnal blue one the day I got out of ARMY in 1969 wife always side it was best car I ever owned wish I kept it trades for Vette I t was a/c car and front was always lower on left side .

 

I really think one of the Previous owners changed springs. I did the same with my Olds and it was too high, I also worked at a auto repair place in the 80's and it seemed every time springs were replaced with correct for the application springs car sat too high. The guys on the Hamb do a lot of spring shortening but it seems to me that would be a PIA since you have to take all apart- cut- reinstall- redo if not enough, or replace springs if too much. Let us know what you end up doing.

 

I don't think that ride height is too bad. Back in the day, IIRC and IMO, these cars sat too low as they came from the factory. I'm willing to bet that given time yours will settle down nicely without modification.

 

Based on your rim)tire combo, your rear tire should give you 0.8 inches height over the front with the rear tire 1.6 inches larger overall to fill the tire well.

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

Raise the rear or lower the front, 😆. You could easily check the rear spring height against the factory specs, maybe they're not correct. Rears are sooo much easier to swap. Or just buy a new matched set since you have no idea what's really there today.

Getting ride height and performance seems to be a fine art on older cars.

 

I have read that the weight difference between the SBO and BBO is less than 100 pounds. That weight difference is not going to make an appreciable ride height change, even with aluminum heads and intake. It definitely would not make a 4 inch difference - that has to be due to taller springs.

 

I have the same issue with my 70. Originally a 350 car, I installed a 455 with aluminum heads and intake which puts the weight around the same as a 350. New UMI stock ride height springs for small block, new control arm bushings. New springs in the back as well. Nothing tightened until all the weight was on the suspension. The front end looks high.

Alignment shop couldn't get enough adjustment (can't remember the specs right now) to get completely correct alignment. I haven't dug into it yet but my first assumption is maybe something didn't go together right.

I would start by confirming what springs are in there, make sure they're indexed and seated correctly and the bolts weren't tightened before weight was on.

Shortening springs or using lowered spindles will get things down but in my case at least I want to make sure it isn't a symptom of another issue first.

I haven't gone looking yet but I believe one of the assembly manuals should have some measurements to check if the ride height is correct.

 

Front ride height with Moog 5536 springs was the same as the 40+ years old original springs. The 5536 free height was several inches shorter than the originals. Higher spring rate but same ride height and still comfortable but firmer ride.

 

Sorry Mr. BOZ. Here is what I have. Side pic. Hmmmm.

Prior to the lowering. I had a small block in it for a while and then went to a BB w/ Aluminum Heads. It sat too high so I lowered it. I can't find a pic of the car from the side after the suspension work. It was up there as you can see.

 

Especially when you have circular wheel openings like "z11375ss" and my own 1966 Toronado, I expect and look to see wheels that concentrically fit inside those wheel openings. I don't know if that's always correct, but it sure looks right.

 

I talked to UMI they recommended using #4050F witch is listed at 1in. lowering instead of #4049F witch is listed as stock height. Do you remember witchone you used ?

 

Did you use UMI# 4049F or 4050F?

 

Mine are 4049F

 

Are you sure someone didn't tighten the suspension with the front tires off the ground? That might be a simple fix

 

So you like my cardboard argent wheel covers. Iwas thinking of painting wheels argent but decided to leave them Blue