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1968 Cutlass S purchase

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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 02:05 PM
  #1  
nyfdx's Avatar
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1968 Cutlass S purchase

Greetings,
Looking at buying a semi local 68 Cutlass S Convertible. I'm new to this and had a few questions. The car I'm interested inhas 108K on the original motor, wondering the potential gotchas with regard to that, i.e. what warning signs should I be looking for when I do a pre-buy. Gonna have a mechanic look at it as I need the expert advice. Also, ballpark $ of how a rebuild of 350 Rocket would be if it came to that.
Advice/info/pointers greatly appreciated.
Old Sep 29, 2011 | 03:02 PM
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Ive seen cars with 200k miles that run like tops. it really matters is if the car was maintained. How much are they asking for the car? If the price reflects that the car needs work than thats fine but if they are asking 10k+ then I would expect a pretty solid running and driving car.
Old Sep 29, 2011 | 03:13 PM
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GD,
They are asking 11k. Most of the stuff I've been looking at is in the 15-20k range for a car in similar condition.
Old Sep 29, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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Imo, if you are not that mechanically oriented by one thats finished! It will cause a ton of grief and financial hardship if the car you buy needs alot of work! Take someone knowlegeable to look at with you!
Old Sep 29, 2011 | 04:09 PM
  #5  
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From: Seneca Falls, NY
Originally Posted by nyfdx
Greetings,
Looking at buying a semi local 68 Cutlass S Convertible. I'm new to this and had a few questions. The car I'm interested inhas 108K on the original motor, wondering the potential gotchas with regard to that, i.e. what warning signs should I be looking for when I do a pre-buy. Gonna have a mechanic look at it as I need the expert advice. Also, ballpark $ of how a rebuild of 350 Rocket would be if it came to that.
Advice/info/pointers greatly appreciated.
-Check the lower rear driver's side frame rail just before it begins to go up over the rear wheel (at the back of the box section)

-Check the body mount locations on the frame if you can. The front body mounts on the body side on each side are notorious for rust too.

-Under the stainless at the base of the windshield.

-along the lower inside edge of the trunk lid

-Lower front fenders behind the wheel

- run your hand inside the trunk, over the inner wheel housings & check for filler or rust. same for the trunk drops

-check the driver's side floor from under the car, to a lessor extent the passenger side.

-A rebuild on a 350 will run you $3000 to $4000 to be done right and assembled. If it has the original timing gears they will be junk
Old Sep 29, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #6  
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Can he provide you any info on engine work?

I bought my car for exactly 11k about 8 months ago. It was 1972 Cutlass Supreme convertible equiped with the 455 ci engine thats in my profile picture. My car had the top end of the engine rebuilt approximately 20k miles before I bought it. It also had a new radiator and new suspension. The interior had minor wear and the paint looked about 10 years old.

Dont be afraid to ask this guy a ton of questions. 11k is a lot of money and a prospective buyer should know any info available.

For 11k I would expect that car to run and drive well without needing any SERIOUS work done. All classic cars need minor work but for 11k the engine and body should be in good shape and the car should be ready for cruising IMO.
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