Hey everyone, thanks in advance for the help. Just replaced a burnt out tail light bulb on mu 1971 cutlass supreme - problem now is the new bulb does not stay in place in the socket, its really loose and falls out with the slightest movement. If I hold it in place it works. Any suggestions?

 

I will assume the socket is not rusty inside. If it is, the inner diameter could be smaller now.
If not rusty, and you got the correct bulb (1157) then it could be the tabs inside the socket (ends of the bayonet area) could be bent out too much.
The mfr of the bulb could have made them too small, too. Not much QC in China...

 

Also,

The bulb only goes in one way, try flipping it 180 degrees. you need to push in and turn,

Also,

Try shooting some penetrating oil inside the socket and pump the little spring back and forth. Could be stuck. That happened with mine. Has worked fine t'ill this day.

 

I've heard that the newer imported bulbs have a smaller base length + width. The cure is a drop of solder on the center tip of the base so the spring will put more pressure on the bulb to hold it .

 

I've seen this problem a lot with Chinesium bulbs lately. The real problem is that the two solder contacts on the base (this is an 1157, I assume) are smaller than on the original bulb. These solder contacts are what press against the contact springs in the base of the socket and hold the bayonets against the grooves in the sides of the socket. Unfortunately there's no easy fix except to get a better bulb. You can try pulling up on the contacts inside the socket, but you run the risk of completely pulling them out of position.

Do NOT ask me how I know this...

 

Is this the top or bottom housing? I had this problem on a 72 back in the late 80s on the top housing. I always found this to be a common problem even back then. I used to raid junk yards back in the late 80s when these Cutlasses were plentiful and in que waiting for the crusher. I took the top taillight out of a 71 and someone had wedged a small thick metal spring between the bulb and the top of the housing-further evidence that someone besides myself had this problem. I took that spring and put it on my car and it worked great. Later on when I needed help on the other top side I took the spring out and took it to parts store and matched it up with another identical spring to use on the other side. I think he told me it looked like a brake spring off something. Anyway it worked great. The spring did not damage the bulb, the metal spring was not affected by the heat of the bulb, and the spring was unnoticeable once the lens was put back on.

 

Like myself and Joe said...try adding a drop of solder to build up the base contacts, to make the base a bit longer, then the base will be a bit tighter at the top small pins.

 

That is a great idea. I wish I'd thought of it. The problem I've had is that while the bulbs are loose, they do initially make contact. The looseness allows vibration to wear the solder down, and eventually they stop making contact.

 

That may be the case with new bulbs and I dont know if the Chinese were making 1157 bulbs in 1988 but I know one thing. This is not a new problem. Like I said I had the problem in 1988-89 with a 72 I had at the time. Also whoever had that 71 I found in the junkyard back in 88 or 89 had that problem or the spring would not have been there. Ive also found alot of 71-72 with a brown goey puddy substance like it was common to use an adhesive substance around the contacts to get these bulbs in but looks like that would interfere with the contacts-may be the oil someone suggested earlier in this thread. Ive owned six 71-72 Cutlasses with these taillight setups and a 70 to boot. When I wrecked the 72 I had in May of 1992 I took the springs out and kept them in a safe place to have them handy later on. I think they may be in my 71 442 top taillight housing. I will check to see if I still have them and try to upload a picture. It sounds primitive but the right size and tension spring on the top housing is a solution that works if your not handy with a soldering iron of which I know I'm not. There is nothing new under the sun. All is vanity. Consult the book of Ecclesiastes if my suggestion doesnt work.

 

The brown grease was factory...I think it was used to prevent corrosion, maybe increase conductivity. You see it a lot when you pull the main harness connectors from the firewall. You can still buy that stuff, they were talking about it on the Buick website a few months ago. I guess semi's and truckers still use it. It looks like an adhesive now 'cuz it's really old!

 

Sometimes they get corroded and the contacts will bind. Some contact cleaner and wd-40 will get them loosened so they move back and forth. If the wires are bent around the socket it will limit the amount of travel also. And yes adding a little more solder the the ends works well also.

 

Please check notes in each part listing to ensure the Tail Light Bulb is correct for your 1971 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS with a 5.7L 350 engine. WAGNER & GE are competing brands, and each brand's Tail Light Bulb may be interchangeable.

 

All 12 volt Oldsmobiles (all GM cars, and pretty much all American cars, actually) through the 1980's used the same 1157 taillight bulbs, and all 1157 bulbs should be the same, unless they were made wrong.

- Eric

 

I had the identical issue with my 72. As previously stated, penetrating oil on the contacts and their springs. On mine, the wires going to the contacts were so hard and brittle that they were also a problem. Those wires need to be able to move also. I took a razor knife and cut the rubber boot around each wire to get some silicone in and around the wire, which freed them up and let the contact and spring work again. My guess is the contact is pushed in and not springing back, so there is no tension on the bulb from the contact, and also no electrical connection, so the bulb is loose and either doesn't work or works internitently.

 

newer 1157 tips are shorter then the old style lead contacts- does any one have the old style??

 

I've never heard that, and rather doubt it, but if it's true, you could always all a little bit of solder to the contact points yourself.

- Eric

 

I've run into this before on some of the import lamps. You can do what Eric suggested.

 

Yes I have added solder and it works- but man that was a pain in the butt to get the solder nice and round.

 

Really? Rounds off easy with a small file.