wiring harness

Old Feb 18, 2015 | 02:10 AM
  #1  
R_CK_R's Avatar
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wiring harness

hi Folks,
I`m actually converting my 52 Super 88 from 6V to 12V. The new Generator pushes 100A and I´m not sure if the old cables will stand this much power.

So I decided to replace the complete wiring harness.
Now my question:
-how many circuits/fuses should I use?
I thought about:
1 Heater/Blower Motor
2 Radio
3 Cigarette lighter
4 Light switch
5 Backlight/License Plate Light/ Trunk Light
6 Flasher
7 Horn
8 Park Light
9 Lower beam
10 Uper beam
11 Domlight/Cluster/Compass/Glovebox

What du you guys think? Should I plan more circuits?
looking forward for helpful answeres.

regards,
Kai
Old Feb 19, 2015 | 06:23 PM
  #2  
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Not trying to change your mind on making this all up yourself,but there is a company here in U.S. That has 3 Different kits that are made to cover any situation you would ever come upon in rewireing .Look up Ron Francis Wiring. They have been specializing in making rewireing for years in the States! Sounds like the system you have worked up might be Sufficient Good luck with the project. Just looked and Fusicks OLDSMOBILE Parts has the original main wiring kits for 1953 Olds,might be the same. Both companies I mentioned are reputable companies. Larry

Last edited by Rocketowner; Feb 19, 2015 at 06:56 PM. Reason: Add info
Old Feb 20, 2015 | 01:05 PM
  #3  
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It would seem to me that in this instance it would be wise to plan not for what you need now, but what you may need in the future. In that case, would not more be better, even if not used at present, than not having enough in the future?
Old Feb 20, 2015 | 02:03 PM
  #4  
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The factory 6 volt wiring is actually heavier than 12 volt wiring since it carries more amps.
Old Feb 21, 2015 | 12:32 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by redoldsman
The factory 6 volt wiring is actually heavier than 12 volt wiring since it carries more amps.
Yes that´s right, but if the isolation cracks off only from looking at it, I think it would be better to replace everything...
there are some unisolated wires with positive charge hanging around in my engine bay...
Old Feb 21, 2015 | 07:08 AM
  #6  
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in one picture you can see how the old wiring looks like...

can anybody tell me how I can remove the light switch, what that tube on the steering column is and for what all these cables are?
(the cables come out of the steering column, is this tube maybe the flasher?)

thanks,
Kai
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 07:16 AM
  #7  
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experts agree - insulated wiring is preferred over uninsulated.

get the proper replacement if that will suffice for you, or a modified harness with more circuits if you value features over originality. You can always have wires for features that are not used....

Wow, all the wires are the same color?

Headlight switch- see that springy release button where the white wire crosses in your pic, atop the switch? They usually go like this- disconnect battery, pull light switch out 2 clicks to ON, press that release button, wiggle **** and pull outward more and ****/ shaft should pop right out of the hole. Then twist switch body back n forth while applying constant counterclockwise urging to the nut/ bezel where the **** used to be, and it should unscrew, leaving the switch free except for the wires. Which are now easier to get at.

Last edited by Octania; Feb 21, 2015 at 07:22 AM.
Old Feb 21, 2015 | 08:52 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Octania
experts agree - insulated wiring is preferred over uninsulated.

get the proper replacement if that will suffice for you, or a modified harness with more circuits if you value features over originality. You can always have wires for features that are not used....

Wow, all the wires are the same color?

Headlight switch- see that springy release button where the white wire crosses in your pic, atop the switch? They usually go like this- disconnect battery, pull light switch out 2 clicks to ON, press that release button, wiggle **** and pull outward more and ****/ shaft should pop right out of the hole. Then twist switch body back n forth while applying constant counterclockwise urging to the nut/ bezel where the **** used to be, and it should unscrew, leaving the switch free except for the wires. Which are now easier to get at.

thank you very much!
Yes all wires are the same color... because they are sooo old...

I want to go original, but with wiring for a modern under dash radio and wiring for a 12V cigarette lighter in the trunk...

The white wire crossing is from the autronic eye by the way.
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