Been awhile since I needed any help but here I am once again. '67 Cutlass 442 and a month ago I started my car pulled it out to wash and no problems, then started it and pulled it back into garage, again no problems, and later that day to go to car show it only clicked with a thunk sound but would not turn over. just clunked. Battery strong, thinking I have a bad starter solenoid I replaced it and it started right up, no problems, right? Had driven it a couple of times since that event and A/ok. Well today 7/4 after starting it on 7/1 and driving it then with no problems pulling it out letting it set and restart and pulled it back in the shop but 3 days later i tried to start it to pull it out and again no start just clunked. SO I'm thinking maybe bad tooth on flywheel so I tried rocking it while in gear and even bumping the starter while starting it in gear to see if I could catch another tooth. I also pulled on the 2 wires from relay block just for grins Well it would start but not like it used to cause I had to crank and crank and had to pump it and it took forever to start and when it did it had low oil pressure at 25 when usually at 45. So I give up! Help please, Mike

 

Sounds like a bad/corroded pos or neg battery cable connection at the battery, starter, engine block. You probably do not have a bad flywheel as that would be an entirely different noise. The oil pressure issue is not related to the starter issue.

 

thanks for fast reply, I know the (-) cable end at battery is good I will check the block connection and then the starter connections and report. Thanks

 

Also post what your battery voltage is, 12.6v is fully charged.

 

Forgot to post Battery reading . 12.58 volts. Neg cable connection at block suspect. I cleaned and reconnected and cleaned (+) cable at relay block for good measure. I put on new cables about 3 years ago. Car started ! No extra noises. But maybe another clue, since this issue of starting a couple of weeks back I had to step up the idle after replacing the starter? Never in 4 years have I had an issue with idling? Now after the starter replace I had to bump it up 3/4 turn or more just to get it to idle. Now with todays issues and getting it started and trying to idle I have to really bump it up a lot more to get it to idle. those 2 things are not related ??? BTW after getting it started my oil pressure is about 25 at idle and about 37 at 1800 rpm's . It used to be almost 42 or so at 1800 while driving?? I see oil puddling on the intake at the #5 cylinder area. is all this telling me the carb needs to be rebuilt. I have no clue when last done. No problems with it till now. even a couple of months ago before this starting issue started I drove it about 60 miles each way to a car show and back with no issues at all. But now it is a different story. Any clues, Mike

 

If the car is an automatic, "rocking it in gear" won't move the flywheel.

 

it is a 4 speed

 

Check the oil level. If you have a mechanical fuel pump with a bad diaphragm, fuel will leak into the crankcase which dilutes the oil and causes low oil pressure. It also effects your fuel flow/ pressure to the carb.

 

Learning every day that I know nothing. Never would have guess it. I do have mechanical pump. You are spot on. the oil level is double and smells like gas. I had replaced fuel pump about 3 years ago so I had no hint of that being a problem. Nor would have connected my symtoms to that area. I dont drive the car that much. I tinker more than drive. I will replace the pump and change the oil and see what happens and report back. could be a few days, thanks gs72, Mike

 

Glad you are getting it sorted out. I have been a professional mechanic for over 35 years and I still run into things that make you go huh.

 

Since I know nothing, I now know even less than before. I am trying to get a fuel pump for my 442 and normal places like Oreillys, Auto Zone, Rock Auto, and Summit dont sell it? I do find them online but my confusion is they all say "with A/C with 3 Line Pump 1967 Oldsmobile" for the 6.6 Litre i.e. 400 c.i. stock engine. I do have the 3 line on there now but I dont have AC. What's up with that? I dont remember that rule when I replaced it 3 years ago. Obviously it works but what does AC have to do with anything? Any other suggestions as to what I need w/o going electric? Or just get it and go? thanks Mike

 

As a general statement and not specific to your year, the 3 line pumps are usually for cars with AC. It recirculates the fuel to keep it cooler. You would have a return line to the tank.

 

The three line pumps were for cars with fuel return. The whole idea of fuel return is to recirculate some of the hot underhood fuel back to the tank to cool it off. Fuel return was used on cars expected to see high underhood temps. These typically included A/C applications and high performance applications (with or without A/C). Unfortunately, like many other Oldsmobile parts, the aftermarket frequently gets listings incorrect. The original pump for a 1967 442 was P/N 6416836, which was a 6 psi three line pump. Currently available replacements are AC 40523, Delphi MF0152, Carter M4516, and Echlin 40523FP.

 

WOW! Ask and ye shall receive. Thanks for the clarification. My '67 442 would fall into the "high performance" classification which then answers my question since I do have the 3 lines. Once again you guys are the best. Just trying to keep it stock Thanks, Mike

 

well here I am to follow up and report just took a little longer than expected. Oreilly's fuel pump M23059 for my "67 442 matches up and has the 3 lines and bolts up fine and works great. gs72 again you da man! new fuel pump solved the issues. Starts and idles fine, oil pressure great again, no leaks. Thank you again for the lead. Mike