Starter grind
Starter grind
Have got the beast back out now tha the sun is out and snow if gone.
I have had a starter issue for some time now.
The car will start fine on most start-ups however every 5-6th start I will get the grind of shame. It will do two grinds in a row and then usually will catch and spin on the third attempt.
Have not got into it yet but suspect that this will be a problem with some worn teeth on the flywheel vice the starter itself based on how it always seems to catch after the 2 grinds.
Anyone else go though this yet? If sdo, any pointers/thoughts are greatly appreciated
Thanks
I have had a starter issue for some time now.
The car will start fine on most start-ups however every 5-6th start I will get the grind of shame. It will do two grinds in a row and then usually will catch and spin on the third attempt.
Have not got into it yet but suspect that this will be a problem with some worn teeth on the flywheel vice the starter itself based on how it always seems to catch after the 2 grinds.
Anyone else go though this yet? If sdo, any pointers/thoughts are greatly appreciated
Thanks
I remember meeting you and your car last year. Wondered where you had gotten to. You were looking for those decals on the VCs at the time.
re: starter. You might just have a really weak solenoid on the starter. If you were missing teeth on the flywheel, I doubt you'd even get grinding.
re: starter. You might just have a really weak solenoid on the starter. If you were missing teeth on the flywheel, I doubt you'd even get grinding.
Hey Allan
Still here but had gone to ground over winter. Have had the olds out a couple of times this year so far. Will be taking it to work tomorrow so will be up around North side
Ack re the grind. Its that ringing noise but probably not a bad idea to take the starter off and have it checked before I do anything drastic.
Still here but had gone to ground over winter. Have had the olds out a couple of times this year so far. Will be taking it to work tomorrow so will be up around North side
Ack re the grind. Its that ringing noise but probably not a bad idea to take the starter off and have it checked before I do anything drastic.
With the starter off, turn engine over and look for bad teeth on the flywheel/flexplate.
I have filed or ground them with a Dremel/die grinder in the past to get by, and the ring gear can be replaced if needed.
Also check to make sure the ring gear around flywheel is not lose. Seldom happens, but does occur.
I have filed or ground them with a Dremel/die grinder in the past to get by, and the ring gear can be replaced if needed.
Also check to make sure the ring gear around flywheel is not lose. Seldom happens, but does occur.
Forgot to mention its a 67 425. I was looking at the manual quickly and it seemed from the pics that the teeth ring is part of the flywheel ie you have to replace the whole flywheel?
Thanks for the pointers
Thanks for the pointers
IF you find the flywheel has damaged or broken teeth, yes you pretty much have to drop the tranny to take off the flywheel. You should also have an inspection cover that you'll have to take off to see the flywheel gears. I'm hoping it's just the solenoid on the starter.
EDIT: BTW if you need a flywheel for a 455? I have one in the shed you can use. Came off a 73 455.
No.
The important question, though, is whether this car is a manual or automatic transmission.
If it's a manual, it has a flywheel.
If it's an auto, it has a flexplate.
The big difference is in weight and price. Flexplates weigh nothing and are a dime a dozen.
- Eric
The important question, though, is whether this car is a manual or automatic transmission.
If it's a manual, it has a flywheel.
If it's an auto, it has a flexplate.
The big difference is in weight and price. Flexplates weigh nothing and are a dime a dozen.
- Eric
It's an auto Eric. Beautiful car too. So it's a flexplate. Does the 455 flexplate interchange with the 425?
Its an auto Eric. Seems like the flexplates for the 425 are a bit tougher to find?
Edit: Found one on ebay now for $40. Scratch that...US ship only and does not list condition
Edit: Found one on ebay now for $40. Scratch that...US ship only and does not list condition
Last edited by BStone; May 7, 2012 at 07:25 PM.
If you need that flexplate for the 455 send me a PM. You can have it for 5.00 It's in my shed just taking up space.
I didn't think the ring gear could be replaced on a flexplate, but it can be replaced on a flywheel, at least if one could be found. At least on a 65 425, as per chassie manual.
Now we know he has a flexplate.
Now we know he has a flexplate.
I'm more familiar with Camaros, here's a forum thread you may find useful. There is a imbedded document neat the end on shimming instructions.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=2351.0
Also note the one comment asking if he had the front support brace installed. I've no idea if Olds used these, but on Chevy's they often get lost, and result in extra stress on the starter.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=2351.0
Also note the one comment asking if he had the front support brace installed. I've no idea if Olds used these, but on Chevy's they often get lost, and result in extra stress on the starter.
I just put a mini starter on mine and thought that I checked the depth and backlash in the teeth correctly. Out of the first 10 starts it only did that on the last. It turned out that the starter needed 3 shims for the teeth to mesh correctly and work without any grind. It only did it once, but that was enough for me!
Ok, I just looked up the flexplate in the GM parts manual. The one for 455 will not fit the 425 apparently. Different part number.
One guy on this site who might be able to help you is John MacNeel. (2blu442) He's in Oregon and has shipped stuff to me here in Edmonton using USPS. Great to deal with. If he has the part, he's very fair on pricing too. Here's a link to his PM https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...o=newpm&u=2171 If he doesn't have it, Eric (jensenracing77) or Scott (Oldspackrat) or Brian (507OLDS) will likely have one - just that they're in the eastern US and shipping may be more.
One guy on this site who might be able to help you is John MacNeel. (2blu442) He's in Oregon and has shipped stuff to me here in Edmonton using USPS. Great to deal with. If he has the part, he's very fair on pricing too. Here's a link to his PM https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...o=newpm&u=2171 If he doesn't have it, Eric (jensenracing77) or Scott (Oldspackrat) or Brian (507OLDS) will likely have one - just that they're in the eastern US and shipping may be more.
Summit Racing carries flex plates, wow they are expensive for a 425 compared to the $40-50 I paid for a SBC.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
Yes, 330/400/425 all use the same flexplate.
Edit: I removed the link to the PRW part. After further review of their confusing description, it appears to be a late ('68 - newer) flexplate.
Edit: I removed the link to the PRW part. After further review of their confusing description, it appears to be a late ('68 - newer) flexplate.
Last edited by copper128; Aug 13, 2012 at 06:17 PM.
Thanks for the sites.
Most of these sites seem to list 2 variants - internal and external balance.
The summit 915563 has two diff converter bolt patterns 10.75 and 11.5) for a 1967 with a 425 but both are external balance.
I'll call them up tomorrow and see what they say.
Most of these sites seem to list 2 variants - internal and external balance.
The summit 915563 has two diff converter bolt patterns 10.75 and 11.5) for a 1967 with a 425 but both are external balance.
I'll call them up tomorrow and see what they say.
I have an original flexplate from a 65 400 in nice shape.
I am on vaca now but I can check it when I get home this weekend. I think I paid 50 bucks on e-bay a while back--I will sell for same if you are interested.
I am on vaca now but I can check it when I get home this weekend. I think I paid 50 bucks on e-bay a while back--I will sell for same if you are interested.
AFAIK all our favorite 65-90 Olds v8's are external balance- thus the weight plate on a flexplate, and the missing chunk on a flywheel.
Ring gear is shrunk onto a flywheel, replaceable. Welded to the flexplate, not a service part. If anyonw knows where to get a MT ring gear please share. I have ONE new one in the garage.
You need any flexplate from any '64 330 thru '67 330, E400, or 425 motor. There should be a vast supply and not too bad pricing.
The 1968+ 350, G400, and 455 flexplate looks the same at 1st glance but cannot be used.
To differentiate: The EARLY flexplates were typically mated to a crank with an L shaped notch- the rust/ dust pattern on the flexplate should have a matching shadow.
The LATE pattern cranks are typically a "C" shaped notch, indicating a cast crank. This is a later flexplate if it has that shadow.
BUT.... There is a late pattern 455 crank with a J shaped notch, and [dammit] a late 350 Nodular crank with an L shaped notch... so an L shaped shadow is not 100% certain an early flexplate.
For mtg to the crank, we have an imperfect hex pattern, thusly:
Early has 1 hole offset about 5 degrees [CW vfr I think]
Late has -2- holes offset THE OTHER DIRECTION.
Consequently you cannot possibly bolt one type flexplate or flywheel to the wrong type crank, w/o major modifications. Which I have done.
SO, as a result of these not quite right on the pts of a hex holes... if you measure the SPACING from hole to hole, you will find that some are Medium, some are Short and some are Long.
EARLY: MMMMSL - 4 mediums [1-7/8" IIRC], and the offset hole causes the adjacent holes to be about 1/8" closer or farther away, so there's one Short and one Long.
LATE: MMSLSL - two of each size.
You can measure any way you like, even a toothpick will do. I go from side to side of holes, which is easier than trying to discern the center of a hole. As long as you use the same method and the same stick, you will get either 4 mediums or 2 mediums, and then you KNOW what type flexplate or flywheel it is.
Ring gear is shrunk onto a flywheel, replaceable. Welded to the flexplate, not a service part. If anyonw knows where to get a MT ring gear please share. I have ONE new one in the garage.
You need any flexplate from any '64 330 thru '67 330, E400, or 425 motor. There should be a vast supply and not too bad pricing.
The 1968+ 350, G400, and 455 flexplate looks the same at 1st glance but cannot be used.
To differentiate: The EARLY flexplates were typically mated to a crank with an L shaped notch- the rust/ dust pattern on the flexplate should have a matching shadow.
The LATE pattern cranks are typically a "C" shaped notch, indicating a cast crank. This is a later flexplate if it has that shadow.
BUT.... There is a late pattern 455 crank with a J shaped notch, and [dammit] a late 350 Nodular crank with an L shaped notch... so an L shaped shadow is not 100% certain an early flexplate.
For mtg to the crank, we have an imperfect hex pattern, thusly:
Early has 1 hole offset about 5 degrees [CW vfr I think]
Late has -2- holes offset THE OTHER DIRECTION.
Consequently you cannot possibly bolt one type flexplate or flywheel to the wrong type crank, w/o major modifications. Which I have done.
SO, as a result of these not quite right on the pts of a hex holes... if you measure the SPACING from hole to hole, you will find that some are Medium, some are Short and some are Long.
EARLY: MMMMSL - 4 mediums [1-7/8" IIRC], and the offset hole causes the adjacent holes to be about 1/8" closer or farther away, so there's one Short and one Long.
LATE: MMSLSL - two of each size.
You can measure any way you like, even a toothpick will do. I go from side to side of holes, which is easier than trying to discern the center of a hole. As long as you use the same method and the same stick, you will get either 4 mediums or 2 mediums, and then you KNOW what type flexplate or flywheel it is.
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