Hi! I'm finally getting ready to start my 1972 cutlass supreme stock 350 after almost 8 years of restoration. Question is should I replace the battery cables which are original or purchase new? I don't want to downgrade to a lower quality than the originals which is why I'm asking. Ill be purchasing a new battery as well. Gonna look over an old thread I started regarding best batteries unless that's changed. Thank you!
chris

 

Either make your own, or buy good quality cables. The aftermarket has really gotten cheap with wire and cables. The insulation is thicker, the actual copper wire has gotten smaller for a given wire gauge.

I bought the cable and cable ends for my car at a heavy truck repair shop. They had everything from 2 gauge to massive

 

If your battery cables are in good shape just reuse them.

 

I'd slice the rubber casing back about 3" - 4" on each end of each cable and observe the condition of the wiring. If you observe marked blue/green corrosion contained w/in the wires, I'd make new cables. If you don't just buy some heat shrink, re-wrap w/ new heat shrink and use the originals.

Two other suppliers to consider if you're making new cables (I would not buy prepackaged cables of any type - make your own):

(1) A quality marine (boat yard/store). They will carry sizes down to AWG 0000 (4/0); and,
(2) An electrical contractor supply store - which will generally carry sizes down to AWG 0000 (4/0).

 

Thank you all for your replies. I also realized I made a mistake by installing the power steering pump and belt without installing the negative battery block ground. I read here that it installs behind the power steering pump. Where exactly does it connect to the block? And is it possible to install without completely removing the pump? Thank you!
chris

 

Chris, you can install the negative battery cable without removing the PS pump. Do it from below the car with a wrench. It will be a PITA but it's doable.

If your battery cables are at all frayed or if the insulation is cracking near the terminal ends then replace them. I agree with others to avoid cables at the auto parts store. You should go to a specialty electrical shop or truck/marine business to get the cables made. FWIW, I had 000 positive and 00 negative cables made for my diesel truck by a local electrical supply company for about $90 a year ago. My truck has 2 batteries so it should be cheaper than that for your Olds. Probably no need to go over 0 gauge for an Olds engine though.

 

Do you want stock appearing or not? If originality is not a concern, I recommend Battery Cables USA. I got a set of 1-gauge cables for my 67 Delta from them and I'm quite pleased with them.

 

Thank you all! I live close to a marine shop and I'll also check out the link from Joe. Also where exactly does the negative cae attach? Thank you!
chris

 

 

 

 

Note the battery ground cable goes directly to engine block and there is also the ground strap wire which must be attached to the side baffle next to the battery. See Fig. 1 (insert) of Page 142.

 

Thank you Vintage Chief! My AM is all
mixed up so I appreciate the pages you sent! Joe, when you ordered your cables,
what ends did you order? When I look at the 1 gauge wires they only show options for top post negative and positive and M style terminals. Thank you all!
chris

 

My 67 uses a top post battery, so that's what I ordered. I wasn't thinking about the side terminal batteries.

 

No worries. I appreciate everyone's help! Another question regarding my new coil which is apparently slightly larger diameter than the original because the bracket won't close enough to bolt it to the top of the manifold. Any ideas? Thank you!

 

You'll have to do some trial and error re-bending to line up the holes and use a spacer between the bracket ends with a longer bolt. Only bend one end.

 

^^^This. I've had to do the same thing. I usually use a c-clamp or similar tool to squeeze the tabs together. You have the screw that holds the clamp together, right? That helps alight the bolt holes.

 

Look at Fusick or Tear One battery cables. They are not much more than "will fits". They are an exact fit and specification of OEMs with the proper primary pigtails eyelets et al...
Hang onto the OEM coil. Nothing like factory Delco OEM...if it tests good.

 

Droldsmorland, regarding testing the ac delco coil, are you suggesting testing for continuity? Also where can I get the brass connectors that attach the wire from the distributer to the coil? My wire broke free of the connector today... thanks!
chris

 

Joe, unfortunately I can't find the screw yuu are referring to. The bolt was in my labeled container along with the bracket but I can't locate the screw so I'm on the lookout for another screw that will work. I found one that almost worked meaning it tightened up to a certain point and then let go when the two sides of the bracket got close. So I'll either need to drill new holes to line up or if the original coil tests well maybe I'll just clean it up and reuse it. I had no ignition issues 10 years ago when it was running. Thanks again!
Chris

 

Yes, there should be continuity, but it needs to have a specific OHM value on the primary(+/-) and secondary (coil wire) winding. Test both winding(s) to case resistance as well. Looking for short. Case to any terminal should be ∞ infinity.

Was it working?
I don't have those values handy. Nor stored in the gray matter. Put it in the Googler or someone here will pipe up.

The terminal spades could be sourced from a vendor which reproduces OEM wire harnesses. Search it, its possible someone may sell you a single or small pack of them.
You can find good heat-shrink stake on solderless spade or eyelet terminals and brass solder on terms(use shrink tubing). McMaster Carr, AMP, TE Connectivity, Sta-kon...Fusick?

 

 

Thanks Ralph and droldsmorland!