BosMobile

Batteries in trunk,2/o cable trunk , to starter.I't won't turn over on the first hit of switch.Like weak battery,then second attempt turns over engine .Will fire rite up if fuels there....I 've bought a ford type soliniod,250 amp cutoff switch,weld cable {1/0 or o/o},its freaking huge!Anyhow,MAD ENTERPRISE,has all the info i should need ,EXCEPT,the entergize wire to the solinoid.They show only 2 terminals ,POWER in,power out?? I'm sure thier is a entergizer wire to activate the soliniod.What size wire do i need to the entergize side of the soliniod?? 12 to 14 ?bigger?Should it be 12V switched?I understand i only need this wire HOT during cranking,right?Please help,I'd really like to eliminate the starting problem.I'ts aggravating.Not putting the battery back up front,so,please dont go there.Thank you,if you could give me a good research site...so far i have,nt found one.Thanks again,BO

turnpike_cruiser

I've mounted my battery in the trunk too. I mounted the Ford type solenoid to the battery box and ran the cable through the interior. I then ran short piece of wire (12 gauge will work) from the starter battery connection directly to the starter solenoid. Wire you ignition switch to the Ford starter. When the Ford solenoid energizes you have 12v at the starter and starter solenoid.

By wiring the Ford solenoid at the battery you eliminate the constant 12v at the starter connection. Wiring it this way effectively makes it a switched system. Doing this eliminates any possible shorts to the starter cable. Except for the brief time you are actually cranking your engine.

It also sounds like you have a ground issue. Run a ground cable directly from the engine block to the rear battery. Make sure it is the same size cable as your positive cable.

This should fix your starting issues, unless your starter needs replacing too.

BosMobile

Woah!First off,thats a wickedly cool car!!!At first i kind of threw it together,just a battery box and some long cable that i bought on the cheap.I now have the required parts to do it right.I,ll try to be brief here.Lets say i'm starting over.I have 25' of weld cable ,1/0 or o/o.{huge}Summit or ford soleniod,250amp cutoff switch,jumper terminals,lots of 10+gauge wire[got that off some kids car that had those huge amp and speakers,its copper]I've got the whole thing drawn out.I,m still confused about a couple things though.First,the wire that will entergize the remote solenoid,what gauge should i use there,and should it be "switched 12v" or what?Second,do i need to run 8gauge or better directly to the ALT.?I's that needed or can i run it off the "main junction block"??This comes into play when the cutoff switch is used.I,t needs to kill everything.Third,does the battery ground need to be run to the engine,frame,body,or all three.I know how important ground can be.Luckily[maybe that is],I already have the 2/0 gauge run to the starter,so i can switch that cable to a full length ground,if its big enough.Anyone that could give some guidance here would be greatly appreciated.I might even send you a "BAD"check for a million dollars!Thanks again,later,BO

turnpike_cruiser

Thanks

1. Use the same gauge wire that originally ran from the ignition switch/starter solenoid. Just disconnect your ignition wire that ran to the starter and connect it to the Ford solenoid. Your ignition switch is the 'switch' for this circuit.
2. What amp is your alternator? If 50 amp 8 gauge should work. Over 50 amp I would use two 8 gauge wires. Run these wires directly to your battery. As for the kill switch, never done that and don't want to give you incorrect info.
3. All three. Use the same gauge or larger than you are using for your starter cable. I'm using 1 gauge from the block to body, 1 gauge body to frame and 1 gauge frame to negative post on the battery.

With the long runs for these cable I would use 1 gauge as a minimum. 2 gauge is pushing the limits with starter current and a rear mounted battery.

TripDeuces

You can also eliminate a lot of cable by grounding the battery to the body and then the body to the frame. Up front on the engine you can do the same thing by grounding it to the frame and body.

As crazy as it sounds having the engine grounded thoroughly will also eliminate any type of electrolysis happening inside the engine and stop your thrust bearing from getting eaten away. I read this on the Clevite sight awhile ago, crazy stuff but true. Basically, grounds are essential for any electrical connection to work properly.

BosMobile

Thanks guys,advice noted and taken.I'm still not clear on some of the wiring.For one ,i've installed a remote start switch years ago,to try and help the cold start condition.My cars not started that often,so i usally put my trickel charger on there .Just to keep my battery from ruining.I'ts in grade a condition ,so thats not the problem.I feel that the #2 cable is to blame.To much resistance ,for that amount of draw.I'll figure that out on paper,or just eliminate it[IN the good pile]I understand the ALT wire needs to go straight to the +BAT.The amp wire i have should be big enough,its way bigger than 8gauge.Is there anything i'll need to do on the original solinoid?The factory GM thats there?Or am i basically bypassing it?To say, are there any wires besides the HOT cable to the original solinoid switch?Now to my "ground" circuit,Presantly,i have the BAT to frame[also 2 GA]Ground from engine to frame. Since the #2 cable is there already,currently for the starter.I'll make it a ground, BAT to engine.Then replace the short ground cables with the 1/0.Same as positive will be,Surly that would work well.The ground is always the most ignored circuit on a car,no matter what 's wired.Took years of head scratching to learn that one.I'm still doing some of that,which means theres more to learn.Most people can't appreciate that...SAD....Hey,Trip2,Still working on the fuel system too,decided on a bypass regulater,it s gonna cost more,but not in the "longrun".Thanks you guys for all the help.By the time i get these two projects done ,I'm gonna be sick of looking at the under side of my car.WHEW!!Ever wished you had a lift??YEAH,thanks again ,later,BO