Evening all, looking for a little advice!

Pulled the points out of my '66 Toronado just to do an inspection after I found a damaged distributor cap (the button was broken off) and I took a few pictures. Does this set of points look damaged to you guys? I really have no experience inspecting points but it looks to me kinda like the center section of the side that doesn't move is welded to the movable side? Maybe that's normal for these things? I thought this set was new when I put them in but I'm really not sure if they were new now that I look at them. The stamping says "made in USA" so I assumed they were good quality.

 

They should be fine and look normal enough. Used points should be gapped/set with a dwell meter, not a feeler gauge because the feeler gauge cannot account for pitting in the surface contact area that can be seen. It's best to always set them with a dwell meter anyway. A film of cam lube on the distributor cam helps slow the wear of the rubbing block which changes the dwell and the timing.

 

I recall days past (1950s - 1960s) when you bought any set of contact points for any application i.e. tractor, car, truck, motorcycle, etc. blah, blah. There was never a hole in the middle of either the stationary side or the cam (moveable) side. Then, supposedly Blue Streak STANDARD design to provide some unknown cooling (which I never bought into). First, there was hole in the middle on one side only, then contact points were manufactured w/ a hole in the middle on both sides (AC Delco, Excel, BW) they all appeared to copy this notion. Hey, if you can save a penny here & a penny there I guess it all adds up.

 

Many aftermarket makers used these "ventilated" points, perhaps as an advertising gimmick, or not.
GM did not follow this thinking evidently. I've never seen a set of OEM Delco points with a hole.

The only thing I do see is a misalignment that is causing the points to contact on only one side.
The moveable contact is probably bent.
Points are cheap, and not worth screwing around with.
Toss them in the trash and get a new set.
They should be replaced every 10.000 miles.

 

Its been a very long time. 70 Buick GS had dual point distributor. Dad would use a matchbook's striker to clean points. Always side to side. And not let the point touch until he clean them.

 

This is just me, but I think those points don't look too bad. All they need is to be "resurfaced" so both sides are more flat and perpendicular to each other so that when they are touching there is the most contact surface possible. In the old days we would slide a piece of 1200 grit sandpaper doubled up on itself with the abrasive sides out between the points, let them close, then draw it out. Doing this about five or six times would accomplish the job. Some people would steal their wive's cardboard nail file and do the same thing but that is a little more abrasive and wouldn't take as many strokes. HighwayStar 442, your idea of the matchbook striker is a good one too.

 

Ok good stuff, thanks everyone. I haven't seen enough sets of points over the years to develop any kind of reference for worn out or damaged ones. I put the old set back in for now (they appear to be original Delco ones) and will see about getting some NOS ones.

 

I'm w/ Charlie. For the cost of a set of contact points why resurface any of them &/or question their integrity. Toss them and buy a new set. Install a new condenser at the same time. Contrary to seemingly popular belief(s) a contact points condenser is NOT to eliminate radio interference. A contact points condenser traps runaway/over current(s) to prevent arcing across the contact points (increasing longevity of the contact points). Additionally, the contact points condenser assists in the immediate shut-down of electrical current between each opening/closing of the contact points rendering clean efficient current delivery each time the field collapses.

 

Here you go;
AMC, GM Contact Set AC Delco Pro D-106P NOS new in box 1931988 | eBay

 

They look like just the ticket!

In general, how often do points get changed out anyway? I know it varies because they wear with use but let's say back in the day when these things were daily drivers.....did they get changed like once a year or something?

 

Post #4
Post #10
See above.

 

I just posted to start a thead on this. Ive been through 4 sets because the rubbing blocks keep wearing off prematurely. I've seen hundreds of threads on various sites all complaining about the same issue I'm having. I can tell you out of the 4 sets I've been through, none of the actual contact points had holes like yours do. They were completely solid and competley flat. 2 Standard 1 Standard Blue Streak High Performance and one came on the car dont know who made them. One side of yours looks to have a burnt peice of the other stuck on it. As those parts wear out that most certainly does happen. You may have a bad condenser in your distributor which would generate exess heat. Its easier to change that then it is to change the points. I will warn you that recieving bad condensers out of the box seems to be a common issue also. If you just put those in and they look like that already than there is too much heat moving through them. Curious though since they say USA made where did you get them I'd be willing to give them a try and report back what my findings are. Im wondering if the rubbing block holds up on those any better than the ones I've purchased. None of my actual contact points have worn like yours have.

 

Heres how mine look

 

As I suggested (above - Post #8) & responded to on your other thread:

It would be nice to actually see the contact points themselves but from the metal discoloration(s) I'd suggest you have a significant amount of arcing & likely a significant amount of heat. First, install a quality capacitor (condenser) & another new set of points to see if it resolves your issue.

 

ourkid shows them at the top of this thread.

 

Please explain to me exactly WHAT ourkid's post (image) has to do your your post & image. Whose thread is this & who are we now assisting?

 

I posted a thread about the rubbing blocks going bad. That is not this thead. After I did that I searched the site for anyone else having issies with points. That lead me here to this post. He had a question on weather his actual contact points looked worn so then I posted a picture of my contact points for him to compare. Did you want to see what mine look like opened up?

 

Out of the bag SUPPOSEDLY Accel HD's look like this


Note the mirror finish on the insides of this set.

 

Not so much interested in an image of new points, more concerned w/ viewing the ‘contact’ points surface of your points. As I said previously I suspect very high heat has caused the metal discoloration which leads me to suspect you likely have a bad/faulting capacitor. Without a functioning capacitor to absorb voltage you risk the points arcing creating significant heat. Enough heat the points can weld shut &/or remain shut meaning the field remains collapsed constantly increasing the heat. My suggestion is simply this. If you have not changed out the capacitor/condenser that much discoloration of the metal indicates significant heat. You’ve changed points what 4 times in driving less than 500 miles - I think you said 20 miles/day over a couple months or something? Sorry, on my phone can’t maneuver between two threads very well.

 

Yes sir understood. The point of the pictures is just so that he can compare his points to new ones as his original question was if he needed new ones. I belive he does considering his look pretty thoroughly burnt up compared to brand new ones. To your point no pun intended, if they can weld shut because of excessive heat due to a faulty capacitor would the engine still run? And without symptoms. Because thats how mine behaves most of the time right up until they are unable to function altogether. Then its a huge loss of power and what little you have produces a bucking. Then I pull over and adjust the dwell with a meter through the door while running. I wonder then if that is how my rubbing blocks are wearing down so fast? I have changed the capacitor but maybe it's still bad. And maybe his also is bad. There is one pair I have that lasted about 2 months. On that one the actual contact points did turn black and the rear one fell right off the bracket itself. I think I see what you're saying. I'll try a new capacitor. Maybe the points are micro welding when they make contact because they are too hot and then when the came lobe hits the rubbing block its enough to pull the hot weld back apart but at the expense of excess wear of the rubbing block and the contact points if I got that right.

 

I'm going to move my discussion to your other thread >> Ignition Points Issue since I may not be doing a good job of trying to explain myself.

 

I Just ordered a set of 4 of these for around 30 bucks on ebay. Now I can confirm that there are apparently sets with a hole in the contact point that is fixed to the bracket. The part number on the red boxes read DR 2238 V. Made by Nors USA!

 

are you greasing the rubbing block when you installed them? no grease will cause premature wear