Hey all I would like to start a conversation about points. I have been through 4 sets of points on my Toronado. The distributor cam looks to be in great shape. Does not look worn, can feel no roughness anywhere on it. There is no play at all back or forth. I apply the correct lube generously. 3 of the 4 have worn the rubbing blocks down to nothing in the matter of two weeks daily driving roughly 20 miles a day max. One set of blue streak high performace (with the extra sponge) did last for about a month until one of the contact points actually fell apart at its rivot and dissapeared. The rubbing block was showing signs of premature wear but less than the others. Instant ignition failure on a busy road none the less. My vacuum advance seems to only move if you manually push on its mechanism in the distributor fairly hard. Should it move freely? I've seen videos where people suck on the hose and it moves. No chance mine moves that freely. Could it be stuck and affecting the pressure on the points rubbing block? I have ordered a new vacuum advance module. Thank you

 

Yes, the advance plate should move relatively easily. Sticking advance mechanisms on older distributors are a main reason as to why these engines frequently don't run the way they should. As for the point rubbing block wearing, that's a new one on me. I've had problems recently with Blue Streak capacitors crapping out, causing the points to burn, but never a rapid wear problem like this. FYI, a sticking point plate won't cause that problem anyway. I've been using Accel HD points exclusively for the last couple of years and have had zero issues.

By the way, for more on sticking advance mechanisms, this video was interesting.

 

Joe, just curious. When the condenser crapped out, how did the car run before the points burned? Was it obvious that something was very wrong or was it more subtle?

 

Condenser/Capacitor

 

Joe snuck in just before I posted. But, to your question regarding engine performance (I won't speak for Joe's engine/scenario) but often times the engine runs fairly well cold, as the engine warms up (esp. after/during driving) the engine begins to run (very) rough. The condenser is failing, or has failed. The ignition points gap is in an over amperage state, heat rises (significantly) & will burn out the points. The field is continually collapsed causing significant amounts of heat.

 

Thanks Joe, that is an exellent video. That brand is also the answer to the best electronic conversion that I've seen since you do nothing with a resistance wire. Just put them on and go. I did order what was advertised as the Accel hd's from Parts Geek where I usually have good luck, but apparently they decided on the bait and switch tactic because what I got look like Standard's low grade and in a plastic bag not even an Accel box. I found some apparently old AC delco's on ebay and they're on the way. Judging from the box looks to be from the 70's. Guess we'll see how they do. Do you remember who you ordered those Accels from?

 

Can you share what year Toronado - I'm going to guess 1966?

 

Yes its a 66

 

Thanks for that. I'm remaining w/ a possible electrical over voltage/current condition. If it isn't the capacitor/condenser there's a chance it might be the ballast resistor, improper grounding, or bad ignition coil. Likely best to diagnose one at a time.
The ballast resistor is a voltage limiting device. Honestly, they seldom fail, yet like anything 61 yrs of age, they can fail. To that end, you need a ballast resistor. Check to ensure you do in fact have a ballast resistor & more importantly the ballast resistor is actually wired and wired correctly. If someone bypassed the ballast resistor e.g. not there, not functioning, not wired as in they bypassed the ballast resistor, you can go through a set of points in a heartbeat.

 

No ballast resistor in a Toronado. It uses a resistance wire. It's a Nichrome wire with a red cross hatch on the white insulation.

It starts at a splice somewhere behind the dash and ends at another splice a few inches before the coil +.

 

Great. Thanks for that. I don't have a 1966 Toronado wiring diagram. I know there has to be a resistance wire or a ballast resistor of some type (w/ proper gauge resistance wire &/or proper gauge ballast resistor) and it has to be hooked up (correctly) and NOT bypassed or you'll go through points in a heartbeat. You're sure it's not a pink wire from the IGN SW?

Voltage at coil - “66 toronado

 

Gotcha. Thanks. I see that resistance (resistor) wire at the end of the pink wire now that I looked closer. Yeah, the OP needs to be certain that resistance wire is there.

 

It happened on the way home from Lansing after Power Tour '24 and the car started with a light mid-range misfire that got progressively worse as the day went on. Nursed the car home and found the points badly burned after only about 3,000 miles. Put in the Accel HD set and never looked back.

 

Not 100% on the color. I am red green color deficient after all.

Here's the splice just prior to the coil on my '66. Maybe the insulation is pink, I'm not sure. The cross hatch looked red to me.

*Edit* it says right in the wiring diagram that the wire is white with a red-black cross tracer (right next to the coil in the diagram)

 

Thanks, that's very helpful. I'd imagine a snag like that would have had me scratching my head and assuming the worst.

 

The cross-hatch in the diagram for the resistance wire may be referring to the woven cloth outer jacket on that wire. I suspect it is there to prevent a short in the event of plastic insulation melt-down (that wire will dissipate some heat due to the voltage drop across it). The only way a resistance wire can fail is open as it would be physically impossible for it to fail shorted.

Wearing out the rub blocks is a new one on me too. I'd make sure that the cam in the distributor is buttery-smooth all the way around. Lube can't take the edge off a groove or burr.