I installed a Petronix Ingitor into my 1972 Cutlass (350 4 barrel carb). Initially, the wrong ignitor was sent..as the screw holds did not line up. I put the points back in until the right ingitor arrived, but the car will not start. I received the correct ignitor and it still will not start. Any suggestions on troubleshooting. Could I have advanced the timming?

 

You certainly might have the distributor off by a tooth or more. And remember the 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 firing order is counter-clockwise (not like a Ch#vy).

Try this page to help you find TDC:
http://www.westechperformance.com/pa...ow-To/tdc.html

Good luck!

C.J.

 

Thanks a bunch! I turned the distibutor just a hair and it's running better than ever. Thanks

 

Cool! That's what it's all about....folks helpin' folks.

I've been running an Pertronix in my 71 for a couple of years. Some folks bad mouth them, but I'm happy with mine.

Good luck.
C.J.

 

I continue to have problems with the car since I installed the Ignitor. I drove the car about 30 miles. When I switched it off at a store, It would not start. I had a mechanic to check it for me. He stated that the timing was off. He adjusted it the following day and it started perfectly. I drove it home (30 miles)and the same thing happened. Possibly the timing again. I still have the stock coil in the car, could this be contributing to the problem?

 

The Ignitor needs a full 12 volts to run. I believe your car has a resistor wire supplying voltage to the coil (my 71 did). Try running a new wire from the fusebox to the coil. Something that is hot when the ignition is on...not a "hot always" or you'll burn up the Ignitor.

That worked for me.

BTW...when it is running, does it run well?

C.J.

 

The car runs pretty good when it starts. It idles a little high though. Please explain step by step about the new wire from the fuse box to the coil. Im not the best when it comes to mechanics. Would you recommend installing the flame thrower coil as well?

 

You can add a Flamethrower later (I did) but I'd do the wiring and have that up and running first. I like to induce only one problem at a time. =-)

Get some 16 gauge wire, a female spade crimp terminal and an (I believe) 1/4" ring crimp terminal. A good set of crimpers, too. Don't cheap out and use vise grips! You can probably pick up a small kit with a variety of crimp terminals with crimper at Pep Boys or Harbor Tools for under $20.

Run the wire through the firewall. Make sure it has an insulator on it, so it doesn't rub bare and short out. The spade terminal gets connected to the IGN terminal on your fusebox. The lug goes to the coil. I cut the original resistor wire well back and taped it into the bundle to keep it from shorting out.

Good luck!
C.J.

 

OK. I appreciate the info. So my coil should have the new wire from the fuse box connected to the positive side and the red ingnitor wire. Any other wires should be connected to the positive side of the coil?

 

There's a yellow wire that comes from the starter to give the coil a full 12 volts when cranking (bypassing the resistor wire), but you can remove, disconnect, or leave the wire at your discretion. I did the same as the resistor wire and cut it back and wrapped it.

I can't remember which terminal has a capacitor on it to block radio interference. I removed mine long ago.

C.J.

 

Exactly where is the IGN Terminal on the fuse box. I took a look at mine yesterday and didn't see anything labled IGN. I guess this is an abbreviation for ignition. If that's the case, should I remove the current fuse and place the wire behind it? Im going to tackle this this on Saturday..hopefully

 

On my 71 (and I assume 72 is the same) second row of fuses from the bottom, dead center, you should see a spade terminal.

Email me if you have any more problems.
texasred@satx.rr.com

I check it more often than the board.

C.J.

 

Thanks. I'll email you if I have any problems. I think I'll be fine now.

 

So did you ever get it fixed?

C.J.

 

I ran the new wire with no problem, but the car will not start. It starts for a second and shuts off. I wonder if there is a timing issue. The car ran fine before I put the ignitor in. Originally, I was sent the wrong ignitor. The car wouldn't start at all. When the correct ignitor was put in, the car started fine until it got hot. It hasn't started since I parked it after driving about 30 miles. I may have to take it somewhere to be checked. This is very frustrating...Kinda wish I left the Points in place

 

Do you remember the package your ingnitor came in (parts included). I received the ignitor and a bag of terminals and screws. A friend of mine that owns a 65 Mustang installed a ignitor in his car with no problems, but his came with another part that goes underneath the rotor. Just trying to figure out if Im missing something.

 

Call Pertronix tech support about the missing/extra parts.

Then email me.

C.J.

 

I spoke to Tech support. They don't thing I have the required voltage. They suggested to find another source instead of the new wire to the IGN. Possibly a source from the ignition switch. What do you think?

 

Basics!

Get a multimeter (less than $20 for a digital at Pep Boys) and check the voltage at the coil. Remember not to leave the ignition on for too long or you'll burn up the ignitor.

Check your static timing.

Spark at the plugs?

Fuel?

C.J.