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What I thought would be an afternoon project has turned into a week long mess that just got worse and I need some help. Aside from a successful addition of brake booster and MC, I had some brake line issues that turned my project upside down....and this is where I made an error.... While trying to bend some brake lines and manipulating them from the bottom distribution block on frame, the top end of my brake line somehow got caught underneath the Horn Relay attached to the fender. I didn't think to disconnect the battery cause I was doing a brake job. Needless to say, I saw a loud spark. The brake line appeared to almost weld itself to something under that relay, not the post on the side, but under the rely.
So now, car won't start, at first it acted like a dead battery. I could hear relay buzzer and interior lights, but all cut out when tried to start the car and it went dead. Would check battery connections and they were good. Power would come back on and as soon as I turned key for ignition, it all goes dead. When power is coming through, horn works, lights come on, but as soon as I turn that key - no start and all power goes out. I was wondering if symptoms could lead to fusible link being fried? What should I be looking for to triage this? Fuses appeared ok. I'd be grateful for some guidance.
I can relate to projects going sideways or even worse backwards. Do you remove the horn relay and inspect it for damage? It also sounds like a possible loose connection, it works until there is a load on it. I'm sure you will get more answers. My today project is finding out where my brake fluid has gone, no visible leaks found yet. Good Luck you will figure it out.
Your right, it does give the indications of a loose connection. Admittedly, the ground terminal can be loose and probably could be replaced but I firmed them up and feel like they are good. Here is a pic of the horn relay. It appears it did weld itself to the underside of the positive side of the terminal. What else could that impact (I guess anything drawing power from that hot prong on the relay - right?)? Tried again, terminals solid, interior lights come on, I hear buzzer, turn key and goes dead.
Battery shows 12.89 volts. But each time I try the ignition, it dies. As if it discharges immediately. Disconnected positive cable, took tester and connected to disconnected positive terminal and touched test light to positive on battery to test for a short. Tester lights up (indicating a short) but then fades as if battery lost all power. Stumped…
Weak battery. Check voltage while cranking. Needs to stay over 10V.
Not unusual for a battery to have good resting voltage, but just can't generate enough current. I keep one of those HF carbon pile load testers around. That's by far the best way to test a battery. Maintaining voltage during heavy current delivery is what matters.
The rapid discharge could have easily hurt one of the cells.
Kinda feel dumb but cleaned battery terminals and cleaned battery posts and started right up. My holiday is not lost after all. Thank you all for the input and confidence booster. Sometimes you need that when emotions trump clear thinking - lesson learned.