HEI 350 problem
#1
HEI 350 problem
Hi, I have a 72 cutlass 350, with an Ac Delco Hei Ignition. My problem is that I think my timing is off. So, I need to move the ignition a little, right? Well I loosened up the one bolt holding it, but it just will not turn and I dont want to break it....am I doing this right? Thanks,
Sam
Sam
#2
Sam, to set the timing you need to use a timing light. You can probably rent one from your local auto parts store.
If the distributor doesn't move after loosening the bolt then just shoot it with PB blaster. It might have corrosion in between the distributor and the block, or the rubber o ring that seals everything might be old and damaged. You should be able to use your BERSERKER STRENGTH to move it.
If the distributor doesn't move after loosening the bolt then just shoot it with PB blaster. It might have corrosion in between the distributor and the block, or the rubber o ring that seals everything might be old and damaged. You should be able to use your BERSERKER STRENGTH to move it.
#3
Okay, that makes alot of sense. I don't have any experiance with oldsmobiles, so when it didn't move I figured I would play it safe and ask on here if I was missing a special catch or something. Can I still use a timing light if I can't see the numbers on the engine? I was just going to tune it by ear and hope for the best. Oh, and I installed an electric fan today and ditched the old mechanical...feels great.
#5
Well, thank you. I had no idea you could do that. Anyway, what should the timing be set at? It's a 72 350 with edelbrock performer rpm inake manifold and carb. Other than that and the HEI, I think the engine is stock. Thanks again,
Sam
Sam
#6
i cant remember what the timing is supposed to be set at, you will have to grab a chilton manual and see what that is, and what rpm your supposed to set it at. and if you cant turn your distributor, after you undid the hold down bolt, pry on it with a flat head screw driver and make sure it broke loose from the distributor, and like olds64 said shoot it with some PB, (its a white can with a yellow lid) and you should be fine.
#7
#8
I think my timing is off because the exhaust doesn't smell rich, but when I try to give it gas it backfires, I have to drive around feathering the gas. And as for it not turning and how did it change...I have no idea, I only bought this car in august and this is the first week it's been insured and registered so that I could drive it.
#9
When you get your hands on a light, remove and plug the hose to the vacuum canister, then check the initial advance for 18°-22° BTDC @ 750 (or so) RPM. If it's in that range, call it good. If it's between 0° and 25° it's not the cause of your problem, but set it to 20° anyway.
While you have the hose off, see if the other end is connected to the vacuum port at the right front of your Edelbrock carb.
Through the carb or the exhaust?
Are the plug wires routed correctly? Are they in good shape?
Other than that, does it drive OK? Strange sounds? Vibrations?
Is the accelerator pump working? Both distributor and vacuum advance mechanisms?
Check for vacuum leaks, especially at the advance diaphragm.
Sounds like the reason the PO sold it.
Norm
While you have the hose off, see if the other end is connected to the vacuum port at the right front of your Edelbrock carb.
Through the carb or the exhaust?
Are the plug wires routed correctly? Are they in good shape?
Other than that, does it drive OK? Strange sounds? Vibrations?
Is the accelerator pump working? Both distributor and vacuum advance mechanisms?
Check for vacuum leaks, especially at the advance diaphragm.
Norm
#10
Uh let's see here. How will I know that it's at 750 rpm? I don't have a tach...sorry. I know I need to get one. As for the backfire I have no idea...I can only assume the wires are routed correctly, I never really checked because it idles fine, sounds like the idle is too high, but there's no hiccups. Oh, and speaking of idling....when I try to close the choke, the engine dies...I guess that's important to mention.
I can't really hear much while I'm driving, I have a super rusted through exhaust system and it's basically like driving around with half open headers. The PO was a che*y mechanic and said he bought it as a project but then after a while realized that he didn't want to work on an olds...at least that's what he told me, he has a 70 chevelle and a 71 nova in his garage.
I can't really hear much while I'm driving, I have a super rusted through exhaust system and it's basically like driving around with half open headers. The PO was a che*y mechanic and said he bought it as a project but then after a while realized that he didn't want to work on an olds...at least that's what he told me, he has a 70 chevelle and a 71 nova in his garage.
#12
If you close the choke plate when the engine is running and warm is should stumble or even die. Norm is onto something and looking for standard tune-up and preventive maintenance items. It seems like your car may need some good old attention in that department. It might help you out to find a friend that knows how to tune-up a car and has a tach-dwell meter and timing light. He could help you with your car and you could learn some new stuff too. Tune-ups really aren't that complicated and don't change much from chevy to ford to buick to Olds. Basics are all the same.
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June 4th, 2014 01:56 PM