Heater only blows on high.
#1
Heater only blows on high.
Hi folks, I know this topic has been beaten to death, but I have to ask. 72 Cutlass 350 w/AC, heater didn't blow at all. Replaced the relay by the brake booster and was getting a click. Found the inline fuse and replaced that, now I have high only. Whats next? Resistor? Is that another relay over by the blower motor, next to the big round emissions-looking thing. Thanks for any help!
#2
Here is the link to a 1970 heat/ac diagnostic flow chart should be the same system. page 1-18 manual
Link is to wildaboutcars.com free to join and use!!!!
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe..._Section_1.pdf
Pat
Link is to wildaboutcars.com free to join and use!!!!
http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe..._Section_1.pdf
Pat
#3
Yup.
So far so good - looks like you're doing the right stuff.
So the high position on the switch, the high-speed relay, the high-speed fuse, the general heater blower fuse, the blower motor, and all of the associated wiring and connections are good.
Yup, or the resistor plug, or wiring that goes to it, or the low-speed terminals of the switch, or the low-speed terminals of the relay.
Resistor's the most likely, though.
Is it connected?
It's easy enough to take it out and take a look at it.
Well, I'm not sure what round thing you're talking about, but in '72 some A/C cars had low-temperature relays, and some had rear defogger relays.
- Eric
So the high position on the switch, the high-speed relay, the high-speed fuse, the general heater blower fuse, the blower motor, and all of the associated wiring and connections are good.
Yup, or the resistor plug, or wiring that goes to it, or the low-speed terminals of the switch, or the low-speed terminals of the relay.
Resistor's the most likely, though.
Is it connected?
It's easy enough to take it out and take a look at it.
- Eric
#6
The 1972 Chassis Service Manual, available for free at wildaboutcars.com, shows the resistor to be mounted on the heater case up under the dash behind the glovebox. The manual says to disconnect the wiring harness from it and remove the two screws that hold it on.
If you do go look for the manual, it's figure Figure 1-27 on page 1-17.
If you do go look for the manual, it's figure Figure 1-27 on page 1-17.
#7
Over the years, I've had this problem, and usually found the harness plug melted at the resistor. I was lucky enough to repair it to work.
Only once did I have to replace a burned-out assembly, and was lucky enough to find a used one.
Only once did I have to replace a burned-out assembly, and was lucky enough to find a used one.
#8
On A/C cars it's right out in the open on the evaporator box, under the hood, as seen here:
Takes all of about 60 seconds to replace it.
- Eric
#9
If it's just the plug, the spade connectors can usually be removed from it individually and cleaned up, and if worse comes to worst, they can be replaced with ordinary ¼" spade females and used without the plastic plug assembly.
- Eric
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