Both my driver and passenger footwell lights were not working. I removed the old bulbs from the sockets. I was able to replace the passenger side ( not easy). I have tried repeatedly replacing the driver's side bulb, and so far, have been unsuccessful. For some reason, when the socket is in the dash, I push the bulb up, but I can't get the bulb to twist and lock. Yet when I remove the socket from the dash, I can press the bulb into the socket, twist and lock the bulb.
I am using #90 bulbs. I removed the air containing valance and air conditioning ductwork. I have sprayed the lamp sockets with electric contact cleaner and applied a light coating of dialectric grease on the base of the bulb.
My hands are raw from my efforts over the past two days. I'm laying on my back with my head against the brake. Not only is my position not comfortable, there is little space to hold the socket in the dash and press on the bulb.
Surely others may have encountered this condition?? I'm open for your advice. One friend suggested spraying WD-40 in the lamp sockets.

Thank you!

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From what I recall lube won't help a darn thing....forget the advice folks are giving you on using it.

I've run into the same exact problem. Unfortunately I don't remember the exact solution I came up with....let me go out and look at a car and see if I can duplicate the problem and recall the solution.

Offhand, I want to say the circular opening/perimeter of the metal bulb holder contacts the glass part of the bulb and prevents you from being able to push the bulb down far enough to twist it and lock it in place.

Again, I'll grab some bulbs and see if I can figure it out again.

 

I ran into this issue also, I thought it was just me because I was upgrading to led bulbs. If I remember correctly the way I got them installed was to push the socket into the metal portion under the dash first, then I believe I bent the tips of the metal locking tabs out further. This allowed me to push the bulb in further so I could lock it in.

 

Following up w/these pics....it's the metal "mounting tabs" that stick out of the lamp socket causing the problem.....or better said...it's the slightly "inaccurate" design/tooling of the newer bulbs that cause the problem.

I was able to install a newer bulb into the original lamp socket....but IT DID have resistance/interference. I was able to push a bit harder and the new bulb DID go in.

The old/original bulb installs into the lamp socket w/relative ease compared the new bulb.

See pics. I think I've had to also bend the mount tabs ever-so-slightly to get a new bulb installed as well....but that was probably when the courtesy lamp housing was installed in place in the lower dash.

I got the new bulb in place with the bulb holder/socket NOT installed in the dash metal hole....easier to grab and hold the socket and I didn't have to bend the tabs w/this new bulb.

Pics....

 

Thank you. You're information provides hope. Assuming I bend the socket tabs slightly without the bulb, will the lamp socket continue to hold in place in the dash. I have tried two different #90 bulbs; incandescent and LED. I also have a few of each. I'll need a pair of needle nose pliers. Again what's odd is the bulb twists and locks prior to inserting the lamp socket into the dash. At least, I have hope!

 

You should have more than hope.....the solution(s) we outline DO ALLOW a new bulb to be installed.

I installed the new bulb today WITHOUT bending the mount tabs....again, with the lamp holder/socket NOT IN the hole in the dash metal. It was easier to do "un-installed" b/c I was able to use both hands and get a better grip and positioning.

 

I was able to install the bulbs easily when the socket was not connected to the metal dash also. My issue was the the led bulb I used was larger then the hole in the metal dash so I had to install the harness first then install the bulb. I used needle nose pliers and just opened up each mounting tab just a little bit, if anything this would make the connection to the dash more secure.

 

I agree it's easier to install the bulb in the socket prior to installing in the dash, but I have the same problem as 4speed 455. The bulb is larger in diameter than the hole in the dash. Again, thanks for your help.

 

These are two different bulbs I ordered for the foot-well lights, the one on top is more of a cylinder shape. As you can see it also has a thicker rim between the plastic bulb and the metal base. It was almost impossible to get it to push in and spin - only one side worked. I then order the bottom one form aero-lites. It has more of an original shape. Fit in easier than the other bulbs but you still have to play with the prongs of the socket and push real hard to get the bulbs to spin in place. The nice thing about LEDS is most bulbs come in 3 different temperatures. This way you can go with a warm light to replicate the original glow or go brighter.

 

Thanks to all who helped. Much appreciated. I used long nose pliers and bent the tabs back slightly and the passenger and driver footwell bulbs were installed in a few minutes. I also installed LED's referenced by Steven in the prior post.
Thanks again!