damsel in distress

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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 06:33 PM
  #41  
becerra66's Avatar
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Damsel in Distress
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 419
From: Valley Chic, Texas
I have all the emblems for all around the car in a box, it came with the original air filter thing I dont know what its called..but u know what I mean rightttttt....and the inside lower molding for a/c....and the old pvc hoses....the bad thing is the rust I have some rustttt..I had to have the windshield replaced and when the guys did it they called me in and showed me the rust around trim..they put a crap load of black silicone and it dont leak either....got lucky..thats the down side...but its mine....
Old Mar 19, 2015 | 06:55 PM
  #42  
becerra66's Avatar
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Damsel in Distress
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 419
From: Valley Chic, Texas
I bought 2 different gauge packages of the butt connectors after reading this information...thanks a bundle
Old Mar 19, 2015 | 08:58 PM
  #43  
becerra66's Avatar
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Damsel in Distress
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 419
From: Valley Chic, Texas
Smile This weekends work

Saturday I want to replace the power steering belt geez mannn its really bad..I will use what MDchanic posted...

Also I would like to tackle another short some where

Trying to get inspection sticker BUT!!!!

when I turn on my headlights my blinkers stop blinking, there's a very dim blink can barely see..

Any advice YOU know I would totally dig...MDchanic, Fun71, Octania, droldsmorland..you alls directions..pics...blow me away... you don't know I review everything you all say...let it be said let it be written..
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 05:06 AM
  #44  
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Sounds like a bad ground at one of your signal lights, or possibly a signal light bulb inserted incorrectly.

I'd remove all of the light bulbs, clean the bases and the sockets, and double-check the grounds (easiest if you have an ohmmeter, just make sure each socket base has ful continuity to ground).

Basically, at the site of the bad ground(s), the current is taking a path through the parking /taillight filament, then through the parking / taillight wiring and through all of the other parking / taillight filaments, to ground, and when you turn on the headlights, that path to ground becomes Positive and disappears.

- Eric
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 09:36 AM
  #45  
becerra66's Avatar
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Damsel in Distress
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 419
From: Valley Chic, Texas
Another Broken Wire

Ok so I noticed that my wires to blinkers are brown and blue...but I have a picture I will try and upload for some reason cant load pics..system errors out

But there's a black broke wire and Im not sure what it goes to..
Attached Images
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Broken blk wire.jpg (65.0 KB, 13 views)
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 09:50 AM
  #46  
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
It appears you have a lot of sins in the wiring to address.

I have seen lights misbehave because someone put the wrong [single contact] bulb into the double contact tail/stop socket, thus connecting the two ckts. Press on brake pedal, running lights come on. They bulbs do not just fit in the wrong socket, but determined fools can overcome fool-resistant engineering.

That car also had a poorly grounded front park lite bulb holder. Voltmeter found that with bench test-
bulb ok.... so, assemble the bolb/ holder/ lamp...
volts in, yes,
volts at bulb contact, yes...
place voltmeter lead on bulb base (which should be zero volts because it is connected right to the battery (-)...) it reads 12V.

So instead of a voltage drop across the bulb with one side being at 12V and the other side at zero... we have no current and therefore no voltage drop across the bulb, and therefore 12v on the outside of the bulb base, where it should be zero volts. I guess if you don't understand how voltage flows and works [my partner on that car does not].... I am going into too much detail.

How can the bulb holder be at 12V? because is APPEARED to be and was SUPPOSED TO BE connected to the (-) battery post, but in reality a coat of rust between the bulb holder and the housing in which it was installed prevented the flow of electricity. Solved by punching the crimped bulb holder to lamp housing connection with a ***** punch 5-6 places.
Coat with grease to ward of future oxidation.

All that stuff runs thru the turn signal switch too. Is that TSig lever loose or does the switch feel at all broken? Your car has had butchery done on the wiring and frankly a donor car wiring harness may be required.

But, start with the simple and usual- remove all the bulbs. clean and inspect all the sockets. See if anything goes wrong with NO bulbs in place. Then add them one at a time, one side before the other. running lights and 4-way flashers on will have all of them active.

Last edited by Octania; Mar 20, 2015 at 09:55 AM.
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 10:20 AM
  #47  
becerra66's Avatar
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Damsel in Distress
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 419
From: Valley Chic, Texas
Thanks sweety !!!!
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 10:45 AM
  #48  
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Damsel in Distress
 
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 419
From: Valley Chic, Texas
Sins of a cutlass

Sins but of course...it was ADAM who did it touched the forbidden fruit...and he has touched the wires of my cutlass...lol

Great stuff Octania...I love your information....I will do what you and Eric mentioned

thanks
Old Mar 20, 2015 | 12:03 PM
  #49  
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,815
From: Mo-Ray-Al, K-Bec.
Originally Posted by becerra66
Sins but of course...it was ADAM who did it touched the forbidden fruit...and he has touched the wires of my cutlass...lol
But Eve made him do it.

Wiring can be a nightmare ... but thank Gawd we only have a few dozen wires in our entire cars ... not the 10s of miles of wiring the new ones have. If you doubt a wire, don't be shy about running a jumper lead parallel to it. Wires and their insulation do age (poorly) and sometimes a wire that looks good can have a break inside. Try to keep your colours similar so you don't loose yourself. You can pick up mulitcolour packs of electrical tape to tag jumpers.

Do you have the wiring diagram for your car?
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