It's doubtful the OEM fusible link is your issue, I wouldn't rule it out, but it's doubtful. When they go bad they generally "burn" the exterior plastic surrounding the wire underneath. You may have "other" fusible links which a PO may have assembled/installed. Hopefully, you have the 1969 CSM and wiring diagram. I'd start by removing any extra wires and/or wire assemblies which you can't identify as being original to the vehicle e.g. radio, tachometer, kill switch, etc. Get the horn relay/junction block wired back to "square one" as described in the CSM wiring diagram. Clean those wires, remove them from the horn relay/junction block, clean the junction block, reassemble them back together on the junction block. Trace each of the wires to ensure/convince yourself you know where they go. As stated, don't be afraid of this stuff but do be meticulous and identify which wire goes where and "trace" that wire to convince yourself you know it's attached as per the CSM wiring diagram.

 

I may have confused you when I stated a fusible link generally burns the exterior surrounding plastic. They often do, but equally unlikely they will not. The exterior plastic surrounding is designed to "contain" the burning up of the wire used in the fusible link - thereby providing protection that sparks will be contained within the surrounding exterior plastic of the fusible link - it's a safety feature. What you will need to do, is clean that fusible link and look clearly into the transparent exterior plastic membrane for the wire contained w/in the fusible link. The wire should be in tact. If it is not in tact, then that wire (fusible link) is no good.

 

Regarding your question about the cluster of wires at the bottom. Your fusible link is your MAIN power source leading into the fuse box and IGN. I am providing you an image I created a LONG time ago for a (my) 1971 CS. Review your 1969 CSM wiring diagram. If you don't have it handy I already sent you the link (above) for a 1968 and 1971. In any case, they will both demonstrate the MAIN power source is the fusible link and I have illustrated the branch points past the firewall. You can see where each wire prior to the firewall leads through the firewall then each branches. That's what you're seeing - the fusible link traverses the firewall with the other wires.

 

Thank you greatly

 

I believe the device you're referring to (not certain I see two relays) is the circuit breaker as opposed to a relay. I'm not certain of its exact location on 1968, my 1971 circuit breaker is located in a different position on the firewall. Rocketraider may know since I can't recall exactly how that circuit breaker is wired - directly off the junction block? I really can't recall. I'm going to need to stop for several hours as I have a couple appointments. Ah, flashback, I think that circuit breaker is for my convertible top. Yours looks similar. Is your car a convertible? A circuit breaker could be used for other accessories as well, so I'm not certain. Some of these items (i.e. circuit breakers, relays, etc.) I have to dig out from the PIM. I don't have a 1968 PIM, but here's some photos from 1969 & 1971 PIM. TTYL

 

Gotcha thanks …..my cvert top has been slow to go up and down do
uou think it’s all related

 

Again, I'm not 100% I'm referring to the correct device demonstrated in your image and in my image of the circuit breaker, but I'm relatively certain it's a circuit breaker as opposed to a relay. I have to go.....ttyl.

 

Oh hell, you do have a convertible? I did not know that. Well then, that's the CB for the top.

I think...again, I'm not looking at the 1969 PIM.

 

I think it "may" be related, but only a thorough revamping of the electrical will demonstrate if it's part of the convertible top issue - it may or it may not be.

 

Just thinking of your question though - it's most likely the result of your battery being far too undercharged (esp. if the engine is off when you're raising and lowering). Add to the fact you have an alternator>battery recharging issue and the top runs exclusively off the battery, I'm suspect it's a battery charging issue - really can't say. You need a solid battery to raise & lower.

 

The battery makes sense ……so to this of not charging …..the brand new battery has drained but the alternator has tested good so seems the alternator is doing it’s job right and something is causing the battery and all of its powering components ie cvert top to be slowed

This is where it’s puzzling VChief

 

So, let's back up just a bit.

You stated the alternator tested good. I suspect you had the alternator "tested" at the parts store and they stated to you the alternator test passed and the alternator is good. Is that correct?

If the parts store stated the alternator passed the test and it is good, then we need to continue moving forward. It is critical you know for a fact the alternator tested good at the parts store.

Assuming this alternator passed the test:

IMO, this is where you begin:
(1) With a completely charged battery preferably removed from the vehicle (ensure this battery is completely charged before beginning this test), tell us the known voltage of the battery in its fully charged state. Write it down - exactly.
(2) Allow the battery to remain in its fully charged state overnight. The following morning, read the voltage on the battery. Tell us the known voltage you read on the battery in its fully charged state and the voltage of the battery the following morning. Write it down, we need to be 100% this battery can hold a charge and we need to know what that voltage is when you begin.
(3) With no wires attached to the alternator (remove any wires attached to the alternator), install the fully charged battery into the vehicle. Hook up both battery terminals to the battery and immediately read the voltage of the battery. Write it down, we are looking to see if there is a voltage drop (of ANY amount) which will/can indicate a parasitic draw. There should be no voltage drop to the battery. The battery should maintain its voltage. This is important. Allow the battery to remain connected to the vehicle and every 1/2 hr or 1 hr, write down the voltage you read at the battery terminals then report back what the voltage is during these time intervals for a minimum of several hours (perhaps overnight). If your battery rapidly lost voltage when you installed it into the vehicle after hooking up the battery terminal wires, or if the battery is slowly losing voltage over time - this will indicate you have "something" creating a parasitic draw on your battery. From this point we can further look into the (1) alternator itself, (2) the VR, or (3) another device. It's important to read these voltages at each stage.

 

Ok I will do it starting tonight…..and yes the alternator tested good at the parts store last night so I have not installed it back I’m going to get a fresh battery later this evening and when I do I will follow your instructions and by morning I should be able to provide you all interval check of the battery voltage reading with nothing hooked to it only the battery terminals….be on stand by

 

Excellent. Starting voltage at fully charge state tonight. Voltage read tomorrow morning before installing battery. No wires (none) attached to the alternator attach battery terminals and immediately read the battery voltage. Then, read voltage every 1/2 hr or 1 hr.

Also, please indicate the model number & manufacturer of the alternator you are using in this car. We need to make certain it is in fact the correct alternator so we can ascertain if the wires are being hooked up correctly for the next test to validate voltage & continuity. This will then help to address wiring.

 

I won't be on standby...I will be playing 18 holes of golf & I will be gone from 7am until 3pm. Others will be following this thread and they can surely assist you in maneuvering the next steps dependent on the results you obtain from the voltage readings. If after hooking the battery back up there is no immediate voltage draw-down or there is no significant slow draw down to the battery voltage (indicating in both cases you have something drawing down [draining] your battery voltage); you'll next hookup the alternator and troubleshoot the alternator wiring to determine if its wired correctly (especially for the type/model alternator you are using) with additional voltage readings and perhaps continuity check(s). And, again - my method isn't necessarily the only way or the best way to troubleshoot your situation, others have more experience and can provide more information. It would certainly be to your advantage to clean up those wires and ANY contact terminals where wires attach.

 

Ok so I do hook the battery up tonight (get a reading) just do not hook the alternator and other accessories to the battery correct that way in the morning I can check the voltage from a overnight voltage reading correct

And the alternator will be from Advance auto part no. 7122A

 

No. Do not hookup the battery tonight - to anything. Hopefully the battery is NOT installed in the vehicle. I thought I made that clear? Read the voltage tonight, write it down. Read the voltage tomorrow morning before you begin (before you hook it up), write it down. Then hook up the battery terminals and follow the advice I provided previously.

 

You could perform the test I'm suggesting with the battery in the car with nothing attached to it, but I'm attempting to remove any guesswork from the equation by suggesting the battery is not installed in the vehicle tonight and overnight. Sitting on the bench all by itself.

 

It doesn't hurt to have another set of eyes on things. I double-checked your ALT. Your alternator is a reman. Delco 10 DN which should be external VR which is what your wiring requires. As long as that's the ALT you put in the car, that's the right one. What I mean is, if you pulled the number from a sales invoice, I always make certain the actual physical device matches the sale invoice.

 

So this is the Alternator that’s been in the car and the reason clarifying was because I’m getting a new so it’s gonna new voltage but even though it’s new you still want to get a reading then in the morning hook up the alternator

 

I didn't follow along with that sentence. We'll get this noodled out eventually.

Did you mean to say (hopefully) "...I’m getting a new battery so it’s gonna new voltage..."?

 

Is there any chance we can make a couple of tests before the battery is pulled out ?

 

The battery I have now is brand new from store floor

 

Assuming you meant to say "I’m getting a new battery so its gonna new voltage". The answer to your question is, yes. Read the voltage tonight and in the morning before you install the battery. We want to know the charged state voltage (exactly) tonight, the charged state voltage (exactly) before you install the battery, and the charged stated voltage after you hookup the battery terminals to the battery - exactly. We want to see if there is (in particular) an immediate draw down of the battery's voltage.

 

Ok I will not hook the new battery up tonight but I’ll get a reading tonight ….

 

I'll check you out tomorrow. Good luck

 

I would prefer you did this the manner in which I suggested because there are tell-tale signs of what's happening if you see a voltage drop in the method I described. If you insist on checking something tonight; however, you could perform the following, but as I have suggested I'd prefer you have a completely charged state battery.

What IS the exact reading of your battery right this very moment as it sits in the car? Tell us what the exact reading is on your battery at this very moment in time, please.

The first test you can perform right now is to remove both battery terminal cables from the battery and tell us exactly what the voltage is you read on the battery by itself. That's the very first test.
Next, I would suggest you reconnect the battery terminal cables and WITHOUT the car running, tell us exactly what the voltage is you read on the battery by itself.
Next, I would suggest you start the car, and read the voltage on the battery and tell us exactly what the voltage is you are reading off the battery.

Performing these tests (you asked about) tonight however, negates my wanting to establish a solid baseline in the morning since you want to start with a fully charged state battery in the morning. Performing these tests tonight might very well run down the battery before we begin. You have not said what the battery voltage is right now on the battery. That's the very first thing anyone needs to know - the exact voltage with absolutely nothing hooked to the battery.

 

I believe you be all are missing something VChief the battery has not been installed it’s a new Battery it’s sitting on the living room floor not installed

 

No battery is in the car nothing at all

 

I'm having a hard time following since I thought you had a brand new battery installed in the car. If it's sitting on the living room floor, we still need to know the exact voltage of that battery right now before we go any further - measure it, record it and tell us what it is.

 

It’s dark now I’m in Fl panhandle central time zone so in the morning I’ll will have time to go through the steps as indicated your post previous states if I insist on connecting it tonight ….. I never said I was going to tonight …… I was only informing you that I just picked up a brand new battery only and you still want me to do a voltage reading now tonight ….. no problem will do and let’s go from there

 

Disconnect all wires to the alternator tonight or before proceeding further. Install the battery into the car. Hookup the battery terminals to the battery. Notice the alternator is NOT connected - you removed the wires. The very first thing to do is to read the voltage on the battery immediately after you connect the battery terminals. Tell us exactly what the voltage reading is on the battery. If the voltage has dropped significantly from the beginning fully charged state of the battery when you installed it, then you have an issue with an immediate draw down of battery voltage without the alternator hooked up - which is where this test is leading. It provides us a starting point to address the wiring.

 

The point about performing tonight and then again in the morning is to clearly demonstrate that brand new battery is holding a charge throughout the night and prior to tomorrow morning. That is all. I don't take ANY automotive service parts stores employee word for it that a battery is brand new and fully charged. I prove it to myself by reading the voltage. It's your call though.

 

Understood

 

When you hook the new battery up without the alternator connected, it rules out the alternator as a first point of contact in examining an immediate draw down in voltage - that's what we're after from the onset with measuring voltage of the battery.
If you install the new battery, hookup the battery terminals and get an immediate significant draw down to the battery voltage - we can attest that a circuit which should normally be open, is closed (drawing current). IOW, something (a closed circuit which should normally be open) is drawing voltage from the battery (and we know it's not the alternator because it isn't hooked up). That suggests we examine the possibility one of the circuits which we suspect to be closed (when it should be open) is at fault. You can then begin to remove fuses from the fuse box while performing a continuity test to determine which circuit is closed (drawing current) when it should be open (not drawing current). It's getting late, I hope I haven't confused you. I should call it a night. Good luck. Others will certainly assist you.

 

No you haven’t confused me I’m on board with your approach now…..

im gonna wait till in the morning to install the battery and hook cables up …..and get an immediate reading

 

Have a goodnight and thanks …..give updates in the morning so check thread when you can ……or when ever golfing over …..cheers

 

If you are interested in getting a alternator with a "Internal Regulator", American Autowire Systems sells a kit that you can bypass the "External Regulator" and jumper wires for your old alternator to the new one. Part number 27555. I went thru 3 external regulator (2 AC Delco and a no name brand that I bought in a swap meet) that went bad on me on my 70 Cutlass convertible. So I went for a internal regulator alternator and no problems yet.

 

Hey thanks I will check into that option…..keep the helpful ideas/options coming cause I need it

 

And hey a $20 alternative seems worth it …..if I’m looking at this kit correctly ……is there anything else I’ll need …other than my 7122A alternator and this kit if so let me know otherwise I’ll order this ASAP