*Forgive me of my stubbornness. You were absolutely correct. A friend or mechanic placed a starter in my vehicle and the high speed blower hasn't worked since. Bringing it back to him tomorrow. In the interim, I've performed some steps in which you specified to me miles ago. Exactly where is terminal B on the relay? Thanks very much. 1-9 it is a fusible link.

 

Terminal B is the one that the red wire from the starter runs to. See the diagram in Post #10.

 

Here is the relay, can you point out terminal B?

 

Thanks very much, understood. The car is going up on the lift tomorrow. Most likely, the mechanic messed up the fusible link wire. If I did run a hot lead from terminal B to + Battery, should I fuse the line? I can't get under the vehicle to perform that test, especially when I'm not the guilty party. I did not realize that I've been on this post since October. Again, most appreciated.

 

Are these the fusible leads I need: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pco-5551pt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>3/8" 14 GAUGE

Is the below correct:

All Buick, Pontiac and Oldsmobile models covered in this guide are equipped with fusible links in their electrical systems. The link itself is a piece of wire that is several gauges smaller than the supply wires to which they are connected. The link functions like a fuse in that it will blow (in the case of the link, melt) in the event of an overloaded or short circuit, thus protecting the rest of the circuit.

An example of a burned-out fusible link would be headlights operating while the rest of the vehicle's electrical system is dead, or vice versa. When a melted fusible link is found, the cause of the link failure should also be found and repaired. Some causes include short circuits, component failures, loose or poor connections, or overloaded circuits (often caused by improperly installed aftermarket accessories drawing too much current or overloading one circuit).

There are generally two fusible links on the vehicles covered here, up to 1983 models. Both on these models are connected to the lower ends of the main supply wires that connect the starter solenoid, and the links are usually black or red in color. On 1983 and later models, there are more links. Typically, V6 models will have two black links and one brown link at the starter, and one red link at the generator. V8 models, both gas and diesel, will have three at the starter; one brown and two black.

* I wish to make certain that I use the correct gauge and same color code. Can you provide this info?

 

Placed the car on a lift and had someone check the fusible links that were supposedly O.K. He took some readings and stated, "On high, no power going into motor", from relay to resistor to motor. Now what?

 

Checked it how? Simply measuring resistance isn't going to tell you if you have a bad crimp. Neither will checking voltage with a low impedance voltmeter.

Look, this is not a complex circuit. Did you try bypassing the power feed to the relay? Let's be honest here. If you're going to solicit advice and then ignore it, I'm not going to waste my time.

This diagram of the relay connector is from the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual. Also, I must correct an earlier statement. The power lead from the starter is on terminal "D", not "B". Sorry for the mis-information. An even easier test is to pull the connector off the relay and temporarily jumper between terminals D and A in the connector. If the motor runs, the problem is the relay. If not, fix the power wire.

 

We had a slight argument and he would not allow me to bypass, stating it had nothing to do with it. He measured 11 v through the relay terminal connector on Red. I cannot get under the car on the ground. I'm not disallowing your advice at all, just stating what he said. I replaced the relay and it did not work. I called Tasca Chevy and service said 99 out of 100 times it's the resistor. Replaced the resistor and it did not work, unless the resistor was faulty. I've had arguments about the resistor controlling M1 and M2 only bypassing the relay. Again, I cannot get under the car to perform the jumper test. I'll be looking at $135.00 to determine the problem. I'll try a resistor again, maybe it may work. The mechanic I brought the car to did not have the heat shield bracket attached to the motor. That was fixed after some contention. Thanks for your assistance. Still trying.

* In fact when I showed him the OEM OLDS manual, he did not care to see it or listen . I even pointed out the exact process and he refused to listen.

 

A) Run, don't walk, away from this "mechanic".
B) You don't need to get under the car to do either of the two tests I just suggested.
C) READ the service manual. The resistor has NOTHING to do with high motor speed. It is completely bypassed by the relay.
D) Stop using the "hundred monkeys with a hundred typewriters" method of trying to fix this.

 

A.) Totally agree.
C.) I told him that a thousand times.

" An even easier test is to pull the connector off the relay and temporarily jumper between terminals D and A in the connector. If the motor runs, the problem is the relay. If not, fix the power wire".
Would this be with the key in the run position or off? That seems to be easy enough. Thank you, I'll try it in "ON" or "OFF"?

 

For this test the key can be off. That wire from the starter is hot at all times.

 

Just used a test lead from A to D (Purple to Orange) with key in 'off', then 'run': both times the motor did not start. Replaced the relay, still no high speed. Thanks for your support. Still trying.

*Is it the power wire; i.e.'fusible link'? If so, I'll have that replaced. I need a lift for that.

 

Terminal D should be red, not orange. E should be orange. Post a photo of your connector where we can see the wires.

Just so we're all clear:

A = purple - power from the relay to the motor
B = black - ground
C = blue - low speed power feed
D = red - high speed power feed
E = orange - turns the relay on when HIGH speed is selected

 

Give me a bit of time. Called Tasca Chevy again which I've conducted business with prior. Bob Tasca runs the funny cars. The mechanic said through the service manager (three way conversation) that it's not the fusible link or I would not have power. They keep going back to the resistor which I said I replaced, unless faulty. How much luck can I possibly have? They're pretty sharp at Tasca.
I'll take a picture and upload. Give me a few minutes. Thanks much.

 

Tell this "mechanic" I will personally give him $100 if he can show me how the resistor is connected to the high speed circuit.

 

Sorry, my error, I meant Purple to Red. Just getting irritated at all of this . Here is a pic of the relay connector. I connected the test leads correctly as you advised RED to Purple( A to D) and no power to motor either in run or off position. What of Tasca?

 

OK, that looks fine. By jumping purple to red, you have bypassed the relay and "hotwired" the motor directly to power. The fact that it doesn't run like that says the problem is somewhere in the red power wire. Now look for a square four cavity connector by the distributor on the passenger side. This is the connector that joins the HVAC harness to the engine harness, and this red wire runs through that connector. Note that there will only be three wires in this connector - one of the holes in the connector body will be empty. I suspect you will find that the terminal for the red wire in this connector is melted. I've had exactly this problem on an 84 Olds.

 

Thanks very much. I'll have to find it. I'll take some pics if there's a problem locating. I remember one of your posts or someone else mentioning the same thing; hard to believe. Give some time.

 

I believe I owe you more than gratitude. Here are some pictures as you have pointed out to be the issue. What do or where do I go from here; cleaning or replacement? Difficult area to get to, providing this is the correct HVAC terminal, believe so.




Thank you very much. I truly appreciate the technical support you've provided.

 

That's it. Mine was so overheated that the two connector halves were melted together. You really want to replace the plastic connector bodies. In the mean time, you can remove the terminals from the bodies, clean them, and just plug them together outside the connector, then tape them up (or better, use shrink tubing). This figure shows you how to remove the terminals from the connector body. I use a straightened paper clip or a jeweler's screwdriver. These are called Packard 56 series terminals.

 

 

Thank you very much Joe. If I only listened to you five (5) months ago. Cleaned all spade terminals, female and male, filed, added Dielectric grease: "Better than new" thanks to you. That rhymes doesn't it? Now, what do I owe you for your time? *Excellent 'high' power now.

 

What you "owe" me is to take the car back to that "mechanic", and with the blower running on high, pull the connector off the resistor, proving to him that the resistor has nothing to do with the high speed position.

 

* Irrespective of that, you must need something. I conduct a lot of business online. Ask Brian Weaver of me, the President of GBody Parts. If there is ever a part you need he has it. If you do converse with him you can make mention of a dash cam. I'm most appreciative of the technical support you provided in an outstanding manner. Forums are falling apart and not many know what they're speaking. What can I do for you?

 

I appreciate the offer, but I'll take a rain check. The last thing I ordered from GBodyParts was the plastic power seat coupler, and I got a spare when I did. I do have an ElCo project that's getting an Olds 403, but that one is a ways down in the queue.

 

* Are you kidding me? That is what I ordered from Brian, the power seat coupler. You saw my video; didn't you, and you're playing a prank. Anything you need or if I can ever be of any assistance, contact me anytime. I very much appreciate the support, and courtesy you provided to me. As a side note, I tried locating the connectors which are no longer available. Listen to this, I've been in communications with Tasca Chevy, service and parts. Mike in service said it would be $135.00 and a discount on the connectors. I could have driven the car in for an appointment. Mike knew the connectors I was speaking of as I later said to him the problem was rectified. I asked to obtain the connectors as he put me through to parts. When I exchanged pictures of the connectors to the parts department, they could not locate or find anything to fit my year vehicle. Mark in parts said, "My service department wouldn't take it in anyway". That is an absolute joke whereby Mike in service was ready to schedule service for my car. When I brought this aspect to the attention of the parts manager, I never heard from him again.
* Can you provide any supplier where the connectors may be available? I do not even know the technical name of the connectors or of the wiring harness associated. I've looked in the Olds chassis manual (1986) and it seems to be the loom where the arrows are or the loom above. Would you know exactly what connectors I'm looking for? I'd like to have some as a spare should anything occur after the fix. As of now, it's never been better. The spade terminals were cleaned with WD-40, filed, and packed with Dielectric grease. Hopefully, they'll last. Small sear spot at the edge as you may have noticed but the wires are intact (soft), not hard. So, there you have it. Again, if I

can ever be of any help, please contact me. Finally, I have remembered you to the Most High. This is what we do daily, around the clock remaining in prayer. Not many wish to hear this as I have been tossed from many forums, too many to mention. In the end, we must all give account to Our Savior. This is the road I have chosen and the path I remain upon. This is only the world, a staging area to follow the Commandments and to be refined.

 

Joe, you're on GBody forum, are you not? I believe that I read many of your posts, including the blower motor issue. They banned me for a month and I never returned. I had my doubts about returning here as well. I posted one of my videos praising the Most High under general discussions and they removed the video. If it were not for you, I would not be here. When I leave, I like to go first class, that being with Our Eternal Light, the Root of Jesse and the Offspring of David. We will continue to praise Our Creator until we are harvested as the harvest comes at any time. Keep the faith, everything else is meaningless.

 

I used to be on G-Body forum, but haven't been there in a while. I actually needed to replace the seat coupler in two of the three 1985 Delta 88s that we own. What a pain in the @$$ to get the bolts off without being able to move the seat.

There are a number of vendors who sell the Packard 56 series connectors, but this one on ebay right now is the best buy.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DELPHI-PACK...kAAOxyDEVSbAwd

 

Wow, you found them. Ordering right now. Thanks a million. You're absolutely right about those bolts. Smashed up my hands and should have had a better ratchet, more clicks.
Here's my video if you have not seen it. They're out of business Rebello. They were not professionals, just thieves.

 

* Inadvertently started a secondary post relating to the blower motor fan not working on high. If the moderator could merge both, that may be beneficial. Joe solved the problem for me here: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...speeds-139555/

 

Thanks very much Joe. Received the HVAC Connector terminals today. The system is working excellent, super high air velocity. Do not recall so much power. Maybe the terminal connectors had too much corrosion. Have not installed as yet, only if need be, for I'll have them on hand.

HVAC Delphi Connectors