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I searched through the forum and I found some good info, but wanted to ask a few clarifying things.
Installing a new, simple, receiver. Going to place it inside the center console (Original one is in and looks nice, but doesn't work. Nothing currently connected to it on the back.) Going to keep in place for now.
There's a tach installed on the car. Works fine. Hooked up like this :
- Red to Yellow (ignition)
- White to Gray (battery(?) for light)
- Black to ground
New stereo instructions say to run Red to Ignition, Yellow to battery, and Black to ground.
So the question...
- Can I join the Red from the radio, with the Red from the tach, that's already connected to the Yellow (ignition)
- Same for the Yellow from the radio, with the White from the tach, that's already connected to the Gray (battery?)
- Black ground, same as above.
Hope I explained this o.k, and I assume the answer is yes, but was hoping to get and opinion from someone more experienced.
I would not use the tach power. I would run the red to the ignition terminal at the fuse box which is switched (radio power). Run the yellow to an unswitched 12v source in the fuse box(radio memory). And black to ground.
Note the gray wire the tach is connected to is lighting, not a constant power source.
I would not use the tach power. I would run the red to the ignition terminal at the fuse box which is switched (radio power). Run the yellow to an unswitched 12v source in the fuse box(radio memory). And black to ground.
Note the gray wire the tach is connected to is lighting, not a constant power source.
Thanks for the quick reply. Here's a shot of my fuse box under the dash, which I'm sure you're familiar with.
Question....
- I see one of the fuses marked "Radio (10A)". Could run the red there?
- Don't see a "Radio Memory"?
- And really novice question but how to you "run" a wire into the fuse box? Do you just wedge in between one of the fuse ends and the box. Sorry, bit new to the wiring world. I could also look it up.
Question....
- I see one of the fuses marked "Radio (10A)". Could run the red there?
Yes
- Don't see a "Radio Memory"?
And you won't. Electronic tuners with memory didn't exist in 1972. Radio memory is just a full time +12V source. You could use the dome light feed, as an example.
- And really novice question but how to you "run" a wire into the fuse box? Do you just wedge in between one of the fuse ends and the box. Sorry, bit new to the wiring world. I could also look it up.
The quick and dirty way is to use a glass fuse power tap (type that into Google). These are a little better than "half-fast". I'd consider them to be "3/4 fast"...
Of course the best way is to use a female spade terminal on one of the accessory terminals, or wire into the harness properly.
I would not use the tach power. I would run the red to the ignition terminal at the fuse box which is switched (radio power). Run the yellow to an unswitched 12v source in the fuse box(radio memory). And black to ground.
Note the gray wire the tach is connected to is lighting, not a constant power source.
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Yes
And you won't. Electronic tuners with memory didn't exist in 1972. Radio memory is just a full time +12V source. You could use the dome light feed, as an example.
The quick and dirty way is to use a glass fuse power tap (type that into Google). These are a little better than "half-fast". I'd consider them to be "3/4 fast"...
Of course the best way is to use a female spade terminal on one of the accessory terminals, or wire into the harness properly.
- Red wire....got it
- Glass fuse tap...perfect.
The Dome light feed. Something easy to find under the dash? Would I splice into it? Could I use one of the other fuses and keep everything in one place?
The ign spade terminal is a switched 12v. I believe the accy fuse is full time 12v (the other 1/4 in male spade terminal). By the way your missing a 25A fuse in the clock/courtesy slot.
The ign spade terminal is a switched 12v. I believe the accy fuse is full time 12v (the other 1/4 in male spade terminal). By the way your missing a 25A fuse in the clock/courtesy slot.
Yes, but not fused, so the OP would need to add inline fuses to wires connected there. Of course, if using the power taps, be sure to pick the side of the glass fuse that is AWAY from the power source.
What are the power requirements of the new receiver? The original radio circuit is only 10A so make sure that is adequate. Obviously cannot run a high powered amp off that. See if you can find the lead for the stock radio if it is not working anyway. I don't have the wiring diagram handy to get the color, maybe yellow?
As Joe mentioned, the dome or other courtesy lights are full time on and the new radio memory wire will draw next to nothing. Factory orange wire with lots of options behind dash to add a splice, tie into an existing connector, etc. Because it is hot all the time, pull the fuse first.
I install a radio in the glove box of my 54 this weekend. I won't bore you guys with all the details but suffice to say Murphy spent the weekend at my house. I had both the red power lead and the yellow lead hooked to the radio fuse. It played fine but of course I lost all setting as soon as I turned the switch off. So yesterday afternoon I decided to switch the yellow lead to the constant power source on the horn relay. I took my test light and found two hot terminals on the relay. I had already hooked a 4-way flasher on one so I used the other. I hooked the battery back up and nothing. The unit would not come on. I checked power at both pins on the connector and the ground. All good. One thing I did notice was the horn would toot when I plugged the radio in. This thing just about drove me crazy. After thinking about it today, I came home and moved the wire to the other terminal on the horn relay and it worked fine.
What are the power requirements of the new receiver? The original radio circuit is only 10A so make sure that is adequate. Obviously cannot run a high powered amp off that. See if you can find the lead for the stock radio if it is not working anyway. I don't have the wiring diagram handy to get the color, maybe yellow?
As Joe mentioned, the dome or other courtesy lights are full time on and the new radio memory wire will draw next to nothing. Factory orange wire with lots of options behind dash to add a splice, tie into an existing connector, etc. Because it is hot all the time, pull the fuse first.
Very simple receiver, no amp, etc. Says it's looking for 12V power supply.
Seems like Joes approach should work. Tap both fuses on the fuse box for the 2 power needs. Im going to try that, already purchased the glass fuse taps.
I install a radio in the glove box of my 54 this weekend. I won't bore you guys with all the details but suffice to say Murphy spent the weekend at my house. I had both the red power lead and the yellow lead hooked to the radio fuse. It played fine but of course I lost all setting as soon as I turned the switch off. So yesterday afternoon I decided to switch the yellow lead to the constant power source on the horn relay. I took my test light and found two hot terminals on the relay. I had already hooked a 4-way flasher on one so I used the other. I hooked the battery back up and nothing. The unit would not come on. I checked power at both pins on the connector and the ground. All good. One thing I did notice was the horn would toot when I plugged the radio in. This thing just about drove me crazy. After thinking about it today, I came home and moved the wire to the other terminal on the horn relay and it worked fine.
Just curious. So originally you had both the Red and Yellow taped into/on one fuse in the box? One on each end?
Originally I had the red and yellow wires both on the radio fuse in the original fuse block which would mean the yellow wire was double fused since it has an inline fuse holder. It worked fine when the key was on accessory or run. Of course it retained no memory/ Then I moved the yellow wire to the first terminal on the horn relay. That is when it quit working. When I moved the yellow wire to the next terminal it started working perfectly.
Originally I had the red and yellow wires both on the radio fuse in the original fuse block which would mean the yellow wire was double fused since it has an inline fuse holder. It worked fine when the key was on accessory or run. Of course it retained no memory/ Then I moved the yellow wire to the first terminal on the horn relay. That is when it quit working. When I moved the yellow wire to the next terminal it started working perfectly.
Just one more check-in if you don't mind. Got everything soldered, crimped and ready to go.
Assuming I...
- Disconnect Neg Battery cable . Always a good idea.
- Insert either fuse and fuse tap into fuse box. Ignition first (Red), then Battery (Yellow). (See attached) Does order matter?
- Attach the ground to a good metal, body, screw.
- Connect Neg Battery cable back up.
- Cross fingers.
Thanks again for you, and everyones help thus far!!
Just be sure your yellow wire is connected to a constant power source like the horn relay. If you don't you will loose all your station presets and clock when you turn the key off.
March 21st, 2016, 10:20 AM
72 Cutlass : Another Radio Install
