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Well there is silicon in silicone, so implants may stop current in one direction. I don't know. I once saw on tv torture of a guy by connecting jumper cables to another guys ***** trying to get information out of him. Maybe if he had implants he would have been able to resist.
I THINK YOU DID HIT ON SOMETHING. WITH THAT BROWN VR PLUG WIRE GROUNDED SEPERATLY FROM THAT TEST, THE LIGHT IS SUPER BRIGHT AS IT SHOULD BE.
BUT WHEN I PLUG THE PLUG BACK INTO THE VR AND TURN THE KEY ON, ITS DIM.
OK. Well, the light shines brightly when grounded separately. This could be a simple ground issue at the VR (fingers crossed); and,
Originally Posted by stellar
Unplug the condenser from the regulator and see how the light works. seems you may have a bad one. If using the solid state reg, the condenser isn't needed. If using the mechanical regulator replace the condenser.
Replace the VR condenser as Stellar suggested. When you replace the condenser I suggest you remove the VR, wire brush/sandpaper the metal where the VR attaches to the firewall then install the new condenser & reinstall the VR.
OK. Well, the light shines brightly when grounded separately. This could be a simple ground issue at the VR (fingers crossed); and,
Replace the VR condenser as Stellar suggested. When you replace the condenser I suggest you remove the VR, wire brush/sandpaper the metal where the VR attaches to the firewall then install the new condenser & reinstall the VR.
Fingers crossed it's this simple. Let us know...
Ok, so question on terminology. Is the capacitor that's plugged into the VR the same as the condenser? Those terms are used interchangeably?
I have a solid state VR so i was told the capacitor is not needed. Plugged or unplugged has no difference.
I will remove the VR and sand the contact points where the screws go and follow up.
Condenser = Capacitor (same)
Wasn't certain what VR you still had on the car - S.S. or mechanical.
I still remain suspicious of your rectifier bridge (Post #33).
A good auto parts store can validate leaking diode(s).
Discounting my suggestion regarding a leaking diode, I agree in the direction Stellar is suggesting - your issues speaks to a bad ground connection "somewhere".
Greater than 90% of electrical issues result from poor grounding - we're going to remain w/ that theme.
The VR obtains its ground from the firewall.
The ALT obtains its ground as a result of being mounted to the engine via the negative (-) battery post terminal cable attached to the block of the engine.
The chassis/frame obtains is ground from the negative (-) battery post terminal via a smaller cable attached to the metal side baffle of the radiator shroud.
The VR is mounted on the firewall. It requires a solid ground. That ground is provided by the ground strap from the back of the head of the engine via a braided ground strap to the firewall. Make certain yours is there and remove both ends and clean them with wire brush/sand paper and do the same where the terminal ends attach to metal.
I would strongly suggest you evaluate the other two ground wires and do the same amount of work cleaning the terminal ends of each wire and the metal where each wire attaches (block and side baffle).
If someone performed work on your car, they may have forgotten to attach the ground strap to the firewall - it's anyone's guess especially sitting here in an armchair.
Note the location of the engine head ground strap location attachment to the firewall. This is where the assembly workers provided a dimpled screw hole for the ground strap attachment (#9). Make sure it's there, make sure both ends are squeaky clean w/ solid connections.
My car is fairly original. 350 2bbl 74k original miles.
The ground strap from the block to the firewall was present. It did not look bad at all. I cleaned each end and contact points, with no difference.
I cleaned the contacts on the vr to firewall. No difference.
I did add the missing ground wire from the negative battery cable to the body chassis behind the front headlights. However, no difference.
Thank you
hi, yes.
if it was a bad ground, wouldn't there be other symptons than just the GEN light being lit dimly?
No, not necessarily. You could still have a leaking diode or a bad internal ground contained on the rectifier bridge w/in the ALT. What you might try is running an additional separate ground wire from either the battery negative (-) post or another known good ground location (e.g. engine block, negative ground wire at the side baffle, etc.) directly to one of the ALT brackets. The idea here is to provide a more direct ground to the ALT in the chance this more direct ground path will overcome any increased ground resistance the ALT rectifier bridge might be experiencing.
No, not necessarily. You could still have a leaking diode or a bad internal ground contained on the rectifier bridge w/in the ALT. What you might try is running an additional separate ground wire from either the battery negative (-) post or another known good ground location (e.g. engine block, negative ground wire at the side baffle, etc.) directly to one of the ALT brackets. The idea here is to provide a more direct ground to the ALT in the chance this more direct ground path will overcome any increased ground resistance the ALT rectifier bridge might be experiencing.
Just to troubleshoot, could i run a ground from the negative battery post to the ground post on the alternator? See photo
Btw, AutoZone cannot test for the diode. They can only do a pass fail test for the alt. Might have to try Napa?
Just to troubleshoot, could i run a ground from the negative battery post to the ground post on the alternator?
Btw, AutoZone cannot test for the diode. They can only do a pass fail test for the alt. Might have to try Napa?
On my phone - can't see images clearly. Yes, be certain it's the NEG ground post.
It's often the case - not all automotive parts stores carry identical testing equipment - even among the same chain.I'll note you did test once already on this ALT, correct. And, you were outside of specifications as I recall Your measured rating is 1.047 V. The voltage drop range is 0.500 mV - 0.800 mV. Perhaps this doesn't sound too meaningful; yet, it is in fact meaningful just as the measured State of Charge of a battery is meaningful at the 0.10 (tenths) range. A battery reading 12.0 VDC has ~48% State of Charge.
Aside from this, I can't think of another avenue to approach the issue save from reinstalling the OEM VR (replacing the capacitor in doing so. I mean there remains the possibility that S.S. VR has an issue? Sorry, not sure where else to go. You've been doing a good job of diagnosing thus far.
With the indicator light lighting bright when the light wire is grounded, the only possibilities I see are a bad ground at the regulator or a faulty regulator. There isn't much more I can add at this point.. I remember when Ford started using electronic solid state regulators, if the regulator wasn't grounded before the plug was inserted, (especially if the key was on) it could damage the new regulator. Both the ford and delco alternators are B circuit and probably use very similar regulator circuitry. I wouldn't be surprised if they were interchangeable if connected correctly. The Delco plug configuration is F234 and the Ford is 432F. Same designation but reversed. There are a few companies making the ss regulator and I have seen the ones made by Transpo to be a bit more vulnerable to damage from ground loss than others. Transpo is a good brand, but needs to be grounded. The ss regs are not very expensive, so trying another one and making sure it is grounded before plugging it in might be worth a try. Is it possible that the reg was plugged in before it was bolted to ground?
With the indicator light lighting bright when the light wire is grounded, the only possibilities I see are a bad ground at the regulator or a faulty regulator. There isn't much more I can add at this point.. I remember when Ford started using electronic solid state regulators, if the regulator wasn't grounded before the plug was inserted, (especially if the key was on) it could damage the new regulator. Both the ford and delco alternators are B circuit and probably use very similar regulator circuitry. I wouldn't be surprised if they were interchangeable if connected correctly. The Delco plug configuration is F234 and the Ford is 432F. Same designation but reversed. There are a few companies making the ss regulator and I have seen the ones made by Transpo to be a bit more vulnerable to damage from ground loss than others. Transpo is a good brand, but needs to be grounded. The ss regs are not very expensive, so trying another one and making sure it is grounded before plugging it in might be worth a try. Is it possible that the reg was plugged in before it was bolted to ground?
Hi. Thanks for this info.
I did try running a DIRECT ground as Vintage Chief suggested with no difference.
I installed the SS VR completely before plugging it in.
So the SSVR I ordered on amazon, i just looked, said it does NOT fit my car?? so maybe thats an issue. I just noticed that as you brought up a brand name, so I wanted to see what one I had bought. But the part number matches, so thats why i ordered it. thoughts?
So the SSVR I ordered on amazon, i just looked, said it does NOT fit my car?? so maybe thats an issue. I just noticed that as you brought up a brand name, so I wanted to see what one I had bought. But the part number matches, so thats why i ordered it. thoughts?
It would appear from your statements the SSVR you purchased does not fit your car. I also entered your car into the Amazon robot to validate and it said as well This Does Not Fit. I have not performed an exhaustive search finding a SSVR which does fit your 1970 Cutlass (I'm assuming you have a 350 engine but I suspect the 455 if available would be same). I'm not sure which "part number matches" as you stated - since I don't know which part number you used to search. This is minor, but sometimes important - the advertisement doesn't know how to spell "Circuit", they spelled it "Circut". Simple error? Perhaps, but I notice that type stuff when buying on-line as sometimes it's a dead giveaway as to authenticity of products, country of manufacture, etc. OK, let's move on...
What part number did you use which you said the "part number matches"? I didn't do an exhaustive search to look up part numbers of the original OEM VR.
I did venture over to the Transpo site to evaluate a SSVR for your vehicle.Specs: SPECS:12 Volt, B-Circuit, 14.2 Vset, Neg. Grd., Solid State
Specs For: SPECS FOR Delco 10DN, 20DN Series ER/EF
It says it's for a B-Circuit. Delco & Ford used a B-Circuit and it appears the SSVR on the Transpo site is the correct one for your vehicle.
I'm glad Stellar is on this thread perhaps he can shed some light.
The GM Oldsmobile Division Parts Catalog dated November, 1979 demonstrates Delcotron Part Number 1119515. There may exist updated Service Bulletin Part Numbers which succeed this Part Number but I don't own all the Parts Catalog Service Bulletins. Who knows if the information provided on the website is correct? Many of these vendors are more than happy to toss up incorrect information. Obviously, there's an error somewhere.
Or the SSVR you purchased is bad.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; Jun 22, 2024 at 05:48 AM.
1119515 is what I see also. The one you bought should work. My guess is that it is defective. I prefer the Regitar ssreg over the Transpo ssreg. I have a regitar, if you want it. $30.00. Transpo and Regitar are manufacturers. They sell to distributors who assign their own numbers to the product, so I have no idea what type you have. Local parts stores should have a ssreg in stock.
The GM Oldsmobile Division Parts Catalog dated November, 1979 demonstrates Delcotron Part Number 1119515. There may exist updated Service Bulletin Part Numbers which succeed this Part Number but I don't own all the Parts Catalog Service Bulletins. Who knows if the information provided on the website is correct? Many of these vendors are more than happy to toss up incorrect information. Obviously, there's an error somewhere.
Or the SSVR you purchased is bad.
Ding ding ding
The transpo ssvr is junk!
I bought the regitar ss vr and the light is much brighter!
Crazy that there is such a difference but yes side by side the regitar feels much more substantial and heavier than the transpo.
AVOID THE TRANSPO SS VR
1119515 is what I see also. The one you bought should work. My guess is that it is defective. I prefer the Regitar ssreg over the Transpo ssreg. I have a regitar, if you want it. $30.00. Transpo and Regitar are manufacturers. They sell to distributors who assign their own numbers to the product, so I have no idea what type you have. Local parts stores should have a ssreg in stock.
REGITAR FOR THE WIN!
it's much more substantial, heavier, than the transpo.
And the regitar actually works!
Yay
