Well, got the carb (rebuilt) on, New Fuel Pump, she starts right up, but isn't running as good as I would like, possibly in need of points, dwell setting, but here's my new problem.

Not Charging Battery: When I first picked her up, she wasn't charging the battery (RED indicator light on), and as I noted in some other post, the rear tail lights were disconnected and, what I found out when attempting to reconnect them (new light inserts) there is a short somewhere, so they remain disconnected; back to the "Not Chargeing".

I checked the alternator (meter on battery) that was on her, it wasn't increasing any charge, so I went out and bought a New Alternator, installed it.

Still (not checked with meter) No Charge - Indicator RED Light On?

I'm thinking "Voltage Regulator".

? What Ya Think ?

 

I'm thinking I wouldn't waste time and money replacing parts until I did some troubleshooting. FYI, most auto parts stores will test alternators for free. Here's part one of the regulator bulletin.

 

Here's part 2

 

Thank you Joe P.

 

I agree on wasting money simply on replacing parts, and before you do that, do a little "troubleshooting", which I did on the alternator; it wasn't charging, now (meter check) it is charging, but the idiot light (GEN) is still on. So, I thought possibly the regulator.

After a little "troubleshooting", I found that the "Fuse Box" in my '64 is not in that great of condition. My assessment:

The car (as previously noted), body wise is in excellent condition; no putty, no damage, original paint. The interior, dash, and seats are in very good condition. It was the carpeting that was musty and damp, just from sitting outside for years, and you can see where there was some (both front and back) window "leakage". That I believe (moisture - leaking and sitting) did some work (rust) on the fuse box, and impacted my electrical system (dash lights, rear lights).

So: I'm going to attempt to "clean up" a little cleaner (electronic) and wire brush, and see if I can bring that fuse box back to life or a better condition than it is now. Don't want to replace the box itself.

Opinions?

Also, really, really enjoy, appreciate the manual post, thank you.

 

If you did not evaluate a charging vs. no charging condition w/ a voltmeter, you cannot determine if the battery is in fact, charging or not charging - ESPECIALLY based solely upon a GEN idiot light. First you state it wasn't charging, then you state it is now charging measured /w a voltmeter. The ALT should be capable of producing ~13.8VDC - 14.5VDC at the battery (engine running). Numbers matter.

Disconnect any "wayward" loose/broken/frayed wiring you find/run across. Hopefully, you do own the 1964 Chassis Service Manual (CSM). That is your essential/rudimentary starting point since the CSM contains the wiring diagram. Suggestion: Isolate the charging system wires via reading of the CSM wiring diagram. Ensure your GROUND wires are clean, not strayed, no crimps, no exposures, ring terminals and all terminals make SOLID contact with the engine block, engine head-to-firewall, and chassis - those are vitally important. Most issues are generally contained on the GROUND side - DO NOT overlook ANY ground straps/connections. Clean (sand/wire brush) each contact point. Regarding the fuse box. Remove all fuses, clean all fuse metal contact holders (wire brush, sandpaper, emery cloth, pocket knife, etc.) Install new fuses - you're dealing w/ 61 yrs. old electrical wire which has been subjected to corrosion/oxidation. This is meticulous yes - baby steps. You find suspect wiring, terminals, etc. replace them.

A handheld circuit light tester makes raped work of this. Purchase one w/ the sharpest point you can find. You can test both negative (-) & positive (+) sides of any wiring circuit. Nice to have a decent magnifying glass to read the wiring diagram, as well. Good Luck. Takes time.

EDIT: I failed to note. Be mindful the VR gains its ground via the firewall. Ensure the VR attaching h/w and mounting is good metal-to-metal.

 

Sorry for the misunderstanding.

When the "Idiot Light" (GEN) was on, and the fact that my battery would run down over a few days, the assumption was that the alternator was bad, not charging; so, I checked the battery first after I charged it overnight, read a strong 12+, then I checked the alternator (car running) with a meter and the battery and there was no "charge" coming out, took the alternator to the parts store, they also checked it, was not charging.

I then replaced the alternator, but the idiot light (GEN) stayed on, so I did another "meter check", and the alternator and battery showed it was charging, contradiction the idiot light (GEN).

It was then I thought it was/is possibly a malfunctioning regulator, showing the idiot light (GEN)?

During all this checking, testing, I took a look at the fuse box, and it was then that I saw the condition, thus the future cleaning it up.

As for the "grounds", well aware of the necessity for grounding and going through and checking those.

Also, there was/is a concern with the rear tail lights when I got the car, disconnected, so it is apparent that previous owners also had some "electrical" concerns.

With that said I'm jumping into an area where someone else has entered, and I have no idea as to what they found, attempted......all part of the "Classic Car" scene , unless you have tons of money, fly to one of the Mecumm Auctions, through down $70-$110K, smile and slap your partners hand and bring home a classic.

Me, I'm a "find it in a field", make sure it at least rolls, better if it starts, and see what I can do in the back shop type guy.

I agree how useful the manual can be, and I will pick one up, but I will admit, I somewhat enjoy working on older cars, but will also admit: