Hey Folks, I think we popped the breaker for the electric windows, I have no idea where it is in the car or even what to do now, I checked the fuse that the manual said was for the windows, its good. So Im assuming we blew the breaker. any ideas of where it is or what to do if we did blow this breaker??

 

Don't know if this will help. This is from the 1970 Fisher Body manual, which covers electrical systems for all GM makes. Apparently, the circuit breaker is on the engine compartment "bulk head," which I assume means the firewall.





However, just before this paragraph, there is a list of power equipment covered in this section of the manual. It appears that the circuit breaker protects everything listed, not just the power windows. If your car has power locks or power seats or any of the other power devices listed (obviously not the tailgate window), and if those devices still work, then the problem is apparently not the circuit breaker.






Here's what the manual says about checking the circuit breaker.







If you do not have one of these manuals, it is strongly advised that you get one. There are extensive troubleshooting procedures for power equipment including wiring diagrams. Yes, all of this is in the body manual, not the chassis service manual.

 

any chance you could take a pic of the wiring diagram for the 70 olds 98 out of this manual? I looked on Amazon and the manual is over $130

 

Amazon is the wrong place to look. These are all over ebay.

Here's one for $20 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/37275156387...3ABFBM6JnO2s5i

 

Here's the four-door power window circuit diagram. It shows only the wiring for the doors themselves. It does not show the circuit breaker. It appears that power enters this diagram from the left side where those two wires enter the picture.

 

Speaking from my experiences with ‘66 big cars, 70 may be different.

If all windows are not working, and not just one, turn on the car and see if the power seat moves.

If the seat does not move, your problem may be in the power window/power seat relay which you’ll find behind the driver’s side kick panel.

Just 4 Phillips screws or so to remove the kick panel, then look for the dull silver thing with thick wires running into it - probably red, orange/black stripe and so on. You’ll need a 5/16’s hex head to remove the relay for testing, but be sure to take a picture before removing so you know how it goes back in and can capture the pin out in case you have a hard time sourcing a replacement.

That’s a great place to start if _both_ power windows and seat don’t work.

Chris

 

Got this figured out, the main power wire for the window switch decided to stop carrying the electricity. So now we will run a new power wire to the switch. on another note, anyone have a link for where to buy a new switch? this one decided to crumble apart and now the part with the electrical connectors will not stay attached to the toggle switch part. 53 year old car, when you try to fix one thing you end up fixing 5 others haaa. I do have another switch but it seems to not have the same connectors as the old one. It looks identical but there is one extra post on the switch so I am unsure of how to transfer the wires over

 

You can get all kinds of switch components from reproduction houses and from EBay and from boneyards. The most important parts are the switch points which can get ground down over the years from arc-ing.

One thing to try before spending $ is to open the switch using a small screwdriver to nudge back the spring steel pins in the chrome housing. Then remove the (likely burned & melted) white plastic insulator. Then look at the switch board points themselves. If they look burned (pay close attention to the driver’s window - most often the most heavily used), you can sometimes file the carbon off with a bit of sandpaper or dremel tip and get them working again.

You can buy reproduction switchboards, mechanically this is all you’re likely to need. It’s very helpful to have spare switches on hand in case you need to cannibalize or substitute.

Beyond the switch itself, most of the time what does wrong with the window & seat systems is one (or more) of the wires in the driver’s door breaks from all the openings and closings over the years.

Chris

 

Are you sure that "one extra post" isn't a stud for securing the wires to the switch. Were on my GM cars. Wrong switch, but shows an extra stud.

 

Here's the drivers door switch from my 1970 Olds 98 4 door parts car. Does your switch look like this?

 

I was able to get the switch to function, the issue that we are having is that the board will not stay attached to the switches. It just keeps falling off because the tabs that hold it on are broken, I did try contact cement, but it let go after one day. I will take a photo of the switches that I do have a post later

 

If there is room for it, 3M molding tape or EternaBond roof tape may hold it in place. EternaBond true to its name is very difficult to reposition.

 

I'd hit eBay for a similar switch from GM's of your size from similar years just to capture the clips.

Ideally you're looking for a 4 position switch (side by side) not in a row where you can either replace what you've got whole cloth, or just harvest the chrome housing and the spring steel retention clips. These switches were pretty common long ago. Have a look at google to see what years GM used them. Just google up Olds 98 1965 to 1975 over a cup of coffee or other beverage to get what years they used the shape. Same for Buick and Cadillac and Pontiac. The only thing to look out for your mounting tabs are offset on the ends of the swith. As I recall GM also made this switch with side mounting tabs.

You might check classic car junkyards in your area for a similar switch as well, or call around to places like Desert Valley in AZ, French Lake Auto Parts in MN, or others.

Good luck and good hunting, treasure hunts like this are part of the hobby
Chris

 

OK, So attempted to rewire the main power wire for the master window switch last night. ( red with white stripe wire). Went straight to the battery with a fuseable link. everything worked properly while my wires were braided together. Great!!! until it wasnt great, got all my wire connectors on and added heat shrink overtop just to be sure, then nothing worked. took it all apart again, and great everything worked. cut the connectors out, rewired everything again, now only the master switch works ( which is broken, plastic toggle switch part wont attach to the circuit board part. I was given this switch to replace the master switch. I just dont know what the pins are for the power and dont want to risk blowing it up and burning it out if I ut the power to the wrong post. any tips on which of the posts would be the main power post and what the extra post is for?

 

Well, looking at the photos you shared I don't believe that is the correct switch for your car. If you want to use it you may need to get the correct plug. Does the plug on your car match this switch? I shared some photos above of what I believe is the original switch. But here's a few more that include the plug.