I'm thinking a lot of my wiring issues might be cause because my fuse block is all rusted. Does anyone know if the

Painless Wiring 30001 Fuse Block 12-Circuit Universal Kit

would be a viable replacement for my 1967 CS Holiday Coupe? I do not currently have electric windows but I hope to add them sometime relatively soon, should I be looking at a fuse block with more circuits?

Thanks!

 

With further research, I believe I have answered my own question. The above mentioned fuse block from Painless would work as a replacement to the original fuse block for my car, however, it is not a good choice if I intend to add power windows and power door lock. To do power windows and power door locks and fuse them via a fuse block, I should use Painless Fuse Block 30003.

 

I used the Painless "7 circuit boss" on my 67 and the 64 F-85 Pro-Touring build. This was added on the 64 for-Old Air Products A/C, 300 watt Rubicon amp, Kenwood head unit mounted in the glove box, blower switch etc.. Is original rusted real bad? The picture of my wiring is 3 years old, since then they have covered for the circuit boss and circuit breakers.

 

I THINK, and I could be wrong, that the fuse block was the same for all 67 f-85. The harness attached to it was different. Examine yours to see if it has extra fuse spots either labelled or not. Something you can do is get a reproduction wire harness. They require a core, so you need to get an original off Ebay to send to them, or have down time while the one on the car is gone.

Power windows were a stock option. Power (vacuum) locks were a big car option, so there is neither a provision for electrical power for the spaghetti monster vacuum distributor of the big cars, nor anything for modern electrical locks. If you decide to add power windows and stick with manual locks and a stock look, then a new reproduction high optioned stock harness is the way to go. If you want to go modified and get real power locks, then the above you mention is the best way.

 

Yes, my original block is rusted very badly. I have managed to figure out part of my fuse block issue, I had two fuse connectors that were able to push through the back of the block when I replaced fuses. I now have the fuses actually connected so more items work. However, dash lights are still not working. I guess a little progress is better than none at all.

 

Now you may try this if your fuse box is worth it-detach the fuse box from the firewall, buy some Evapo-Rust, rig up a container and dip the fuse box into the container overnight that's full of Evapo-Rust ( of course disconnect the battery) next day your fuse box is rust free. Will not hurt the plastic case or the wires....

 

you might conceder American Auto Wire factory replacement harnesses rather than a universal kit.