62 Super 88 Fuse Block Questions
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Rocketeer
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 340
From: Chicagoland
62 Super 88 Fuse Block Questions
I'm having trouble with the fuse block on my 62 Super 88. All of the terminals have surface rust on them. Some of the circuits are working, while some of the circuits are not. On the left side it seems that the first few circuits on the top are working, but at a certain point all of the circuits below them aren't working, as if a bussbar has cracked or something. On the right side none of the circuits are working.
I tested all of the fuses for continuity to verify that the fuses are OK. Then I tested the circuits for power with a test light. The problem is that some of my fuses appear not to be supplied with power, as if the buss bar has had a failure. So I have a couple of questions:
1. Where on the fuse block is the power bus? I'm assuming that it's in the center of the fuse block, so that the medial (inner) connector for the left and right columns of fuses would be the power source terminal, and the lateral (outer) connectors on the left and right sides would be where power connects to the wires for distribution to the individual circuits. Please let me know if I'm right or wrong on this.
2. How are the fuse terminals connected to the fuse block bus on a 62 Super 88 fuse block? Are they soldered? Rivited? Press-fit? Is is just one large conductor that has a lot of crimps bent into it? I'm just trying to get an idea what the setup looks like -- if anyone has photos that would be great. Although I don't know what the assembly looks like inside, I have already figured out that all of the fuse terminals are going to need to have the rust cleaned off, either mechanically or chemically, when the buss gets repaired.
3. What's the easiest way to deal with a broken buss on the fuse block? I'd prefer to work on the unit in the car if that's possible, so that I can avoid removing the entire unit and disconnecting all of the wires.
4. If it has to be removed, what's the best way to do it? I know the fuseblock has a couple of fasteners that are visible from the passenger compartment side, I'm just wondering if there are also fasteners that have to be dealt with on the engine compartment side of the firewall. I'd also appreciate any tips on how to deal with all of the wires. I'd rather not end up cutting all the connections if there's a way to avoid doing that. If it comes to that, I might as well just replace the entire fuse block with a modern blade-type replacement.
TIA.
I tested all of the fuses for continuity to verify that the fuses are OK. Then I tested the circuits for power with a test light. The problem is that some of my fuses appear not to be supplied with power, as if the buss bar has had a failure. So I have a couple of questions:
1. Where on the fuse block is the power bus? I'm assuming that it's in the center of the fuse block, so that the medial (inner) connector for the left and right columns of fuses would be the power source terminal, and the lateral (outer) connectors on the left and right sides would be where power connects to the wires for distribution to the individual circuits. Please let me know if I'm right or wrong on this.
2. How are the fuse terminals connected to the fuse block bus on a 62 Super 88 fuse block? Are they soldered? Rivited? Press-fit? Is is just one large conductor that has a lot of crimps bent into it? I'm just trying to get an idea what the setup looks like -- if anyone has photos that would be great. Although I don't know what the assembly looks like inside, I have already figured out that all of the fuse terminals are going to need to have the rust cleaned off, either mechanically or chemically, when the buss gets repaired.
3. What's the easiest way to deal with a broken buss on the fuse block? I'd prefer to work on the unit in the car if that's possible, so that I can avoid removing the entire unit and disconnecting all of the wires.
4. If it has to be removed, what's the best way to do it? I know the fuseblock has a couple of fasteners that are visible from the passenger compartment side, I'm just wondering if there are also fasteners that have to be dealt with on the engine compartment side of the firewall. I'd also appreciate any tips on how to deal with all of the wires. I'd rather not end up cutting all the connections if there's a way to avoid doing that. If it comes to that, I might as well just replace the entire fuse block with a modern blade-type replacement.
TIA.
Last edited by bob p; Aug 9, 2015 at 12:25 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,918
From: SE Wisconsin
I have no answers, but shall be following this thread with interest.
I find it hard, but not impossible, to believe that engineering back in the day for replacement of the fuse block would have required cutting the wires?
I find it hard, but not impossible, to believe that engineering back in the day for replacement of the fuse block would have required cutting the wires?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,191
From: Dallas-Fort Worth
Bob-P are you trying to stay original as possibe? You wrote to me in my issues with the 62 starter and thank you. On my 64 F-85 Pro-Touring build,I kept the old but in okay shape 64 fuse block an added relays. Then added a Painless 7 Circuit Boss a modern fuse panel to run power to all the may add-ons. Keeping all that way from stressing and possibly failing the old fuse box. Just an idea and its easy...
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,191
From: Dallas-Fort Worth
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,791
From: Northern VA
First, you need to study the wiring diagram in the 1962 CSM supplement. While power comes in to the inboard terminals of the fuse box, there is no single bus bar. Some fuses are fed from the ACC terminal on the ignition switch, some from the IGN terminal, and some from the junction block at the horn relay. For the most part these are individual wires.
Again, look at the wiring diagram and see if all the dead fuses are fed from a common source. That will simplify the troubleshooting process. The problem is likely a bad fusible link, not the fuse box itself. You do need to clean those terminals, however. A Dremel tool is best for this.
Again, look at the wiring diagram and see if all the dead fuses are fed from a common source. That will simplify the troubleshooting process. The problem is likely a bad fusible link, not the fuse box itself. You do need to clean those terminals, however. A Dremel tool is best for this.
Phantom Phixer
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 5,526
From: Apopka, FL
The buss bars are accessable from the back side of the fuseblock.
Just remove the screws holding the block to the firewall and turn it over.
Naval jelley and a wirebrush could be used to remove rust. Be careful not to remove the markings on the front of the fusebox that tell you what fuse is what.
The original connections were all crimps , but you may be able to solder them carefully with a solder gun, after you get them clean. Good luck!
Just remove the screws holding the block to the firewall and turn it over.
Naval jelley and a wirebrush could be used to remove rust. Be careful not to remove the markings on the front of the fusebox that tell you what fuse is what.
The original connections were all crimps , but you may be able to solder them carefully with a solder gun, after you get them clean. Good luck!
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