Im trying to find a solution for all the 12v accessories I have running in my 68 Cutlass Supreme. I have an after market stereo, gauges, and a coupe other small accessories that all require their own 12v power source. Ive tapped into my current fuse block and also used some white splicers. I want to add a new more accessories that require 12v power source. My Optima redtop has side terminals to add on extra connections which I am thinking of using...but before going that route is it possible to use something like this to add on a whole fuse block just for my aftermarket accessories? How would something like this get wired? Any advice would be great

 

That would work. It would need to be wired directly to the battery. Then size your fuses according to each load. How much of a total load are you adding, and what is your current load?

 

Well, I just want to be able to have a source to plug in small items that require 12v sources. I want to install a 30w HID kit which I know requires its own 12v source, same with some accessorie lights. My current fuse panel is crowded.

 

That sounds reasonable, I just would not want to see you exceed the limits of your alternator. I would use a minimum of 10ga wire to the new fuse box, 8 would be better.

 

The one thing to keep in mind is that either the wire from the battery to the new fuse block needs to be incredibly short, or it needs to be a fuseable link. Otherwise, it isn't protected.

 

Oh, and what Joe said!

 

Not a bad idea

I just ran my gauges from an ign wire and fused that. 20 amps since that is what the factory called for for factory gauges. If I decied to go Autometer, it will go down to 5

HID's don't really need their own power source, the kind I've used have been plug-n-play. Of course on older cars, you want to get a kit that isn't more than 35 watts

 

Either tap off the starter post with fusible link or off the junction block post with fusible link or inline fuse. You do not want to sub-panel this thing off the existing fuse block.

Depending on what you add, count on upgrading the alternator to handle the extra load. Your car probably has the typical late 60s 35 amp alternator and regulator. You need at least a 63 amp unit, higher if you can find one and adapt it.