I just had the rear axle seals and bearings replaced by a shop. I supplied the new bearings and seals. My axles are leaking worse than than when I took it in. I at first thought it may be a workmanship issue, but now I am not sure after doing some reading. After driving the car there will be a small pool of diff gear oil on the floor under the drivers tire and a small mark running down the passenger rear tire.

I think I supplied him Timken A9 bearings and with locking collars.
The seal... it was gold and black... possibly a Timken # 2146 seal which is .460" thick.
Not confirmed.
I have read that the correct seal is a Timken #712146 .490" thick
If it is not .490" thick, the axles will leak. Possible problem
The parts were supplied to me by a rear end shop.
The Timken seal 712146 which I see online is only .470" thick.
So did I supply the shop who did seals a Timken 2146 or a Timken 712146 . I know it was gold and black..

Anyone know where you can buy the correct Timken 712146 that is .490" thick?
I think I may be paying for another R&R (*&($%$#^%

1975 cutlass 350cu automatic with bolt in axles

Thoughts anyone?
TIA

 

Why didn't you let the shop supply the parts? Since they only provided the labor there is no warranty against it leaking.

 

Yes it may be costing me more money again. Here is what transpired. I bought the new 3:42 gears, posi , all the bearings and seals from a drivetrain shop not near me and had the parts shipped in 7 years ago. Posi and gears installed 5 years ago. Axle seals installed a month ago. Car wasn't driven with the new seals as the tranny was out for repair until this week. . . I had my local shop shop install everything. Everything worked properly except the axle seals.
Interesting that only the Drivers side seal is leaking way worse than the passenger side if the seals are the wrong Part#... is it possible the drivers side axle gets flooded more when in operation, not sure.?

 

You might want to pull the axles and inspect the surface of the axle shafts. Years ago, I had a local shop replace the rear bearings and seals in my '71 Cutlass Supreme; when the shop cut off the old bearing retainers, they nicked both shafts and left deep marks that allowed gear oil to leak past the seals. The gear oil leaked so profusely that I left huge puddles of oil whenever I parked on an incline. The shop honored their screw up and replaced the damaged axles and install new bearings and seals to make me whole.

 

I always coat the surface of a new seal with moly camshaft lube to help it break in without scuffing.

 

I checked the diff oil tonight, it is down approx. 3/4" " below port hole where it needs to be... It appears it must have equal to oil port hole when the shop filled it based on the oil I have cleaned up.

 

Got this stuff just PM me
You will probably need it all again since the bearings will not come off nice to just get to the seal It is a headache with the A9 (timkin Set9) deal
Sorry to hear your having a headache.

I always tell everyone if installing themselves to leave the retaining press lock ring collar off... instaLL THE AXLES AND plates tight and see what the end play is. If your good pull them and press the lock collar on. if not good remove those parts as they will come off not as hard because you did not install the retaining ring.

Good luck, Jim
JD Race

 

The seal width Dim. of .490 - . Is this just the width of the metal body of the seal or the entire seal ( which includes the height of the inner seal ring that sticks up some from the seal m that would contact the flange plate) I assume the .490 is the entire seal but wanted to confirm...thanks..