O Type Rear End Bearing and seal numbers?

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Old July 4th, 2013, 09:43 PM
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O Type Rear End Bearing and seal numbers?

Before I even try to get the right parts from the all knowing parts store... What are the correct bearing and seal numbers I will need for the O type rear end. It is out of my 70 442 W-30. I plan to get Timken bearings but is there any other recommendation for brand?
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Old July 5th, 2013, 08:04 AM
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A true 1970 O-axle will use the SET9 axle bearings with the 712146 axle seals.
Make sure the seals are the 712146 and NOT the 2146.The 2146 are thinner.
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Old July 6th, 2013, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 507OLDS
A true 1970 O-axle will use the SET9 axle bearings with the 712146 axle seals.
Make sure the seals are the 712146 and NOT the 2146.The 2146 are thinner.
Hey Brian, I have seen the 12 bolt 'O' types use 2146 also. Just a bit more info for everyone. IT is really tough with the A9 system. GM really goofed this system up with using 2 different seals.

I really suggest to EVERYONE-
install the retaining plate seal and bearing BUT do not install the retaining collar till you mock up the axl into the housing...JUST in case you bought the wrong seal or the specs are off. This way you can get the parts off and replace the parts if needed with out ruining them. Good luck. Jim

JD
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Old July 6th, 2013, 09:39 AM
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I can see if they didn't bore the tube deep enough,they would use the thinner 2146 seal. I install the 712146 seal in everything,regardless if it came the the 712146 or 2146. I just don't want the axle bearing unseating from the cone. Yes,the original NDH design was better. It was a straight roller that rode in a trough.It didn't matter if the axle had end play because the bearing would stay in itself.The newer tapered roller needs to stay seated in the race.
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Old July 7th, 2013, 07:27 PM
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parts

Originally Posted by joesw31
This is true, and the above is the result of companies consolidating part numbers
THIS IS TRUE BECAUSE WE AS AMERICANS DO NOT PAY ATTENTION TO DETAILS WHEN WORKING ON OUR JOBS.

WE NEED TO STOP SELLING THE GARBAGE BECAUSE WE GET DEALS FROM THIRD WORLD COUNTRIES AND OUR GREED OF A GREAT DEAL TAKES THE BETTER OF US. THE PARTS SHOULD BE RETURNED, INSTEAD OF TAKING THE DEAL THEY GIVE FOR THE CRAPPY PARTS... I SEE AND DEAL WITH IT ALL THE TIME FROM EVERY SUPPLIER WAREHOUSE OUT THERE. AXLES TOO SHORT PINION SHAFTS DIAMETERS OUT OF SPEC STUD HOLES WRONG SIZES - THEY THROUGH IT OUT THERE AND SEE WHAT HAPPENS - I CATCH THE STUFF BECAUSE I BUILD THE REARS AND HAVE TO USE THE PARTS.

you can not get away from it no matter what the company Timkin Moser strange Randy's included...

Do the best you can and keep sending the crap back to the part stores that is the only way we can get them to solve the issues. .... maybe... they might just stop making them all together...???

Last edited by monzaz; July 7th, 2013 at 07:34 PM.
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Old July 7th, 2013, 09:24 PM
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Yes,Timken sourced overseas years ago,to stay competitive with the cheaper companies,but their finished products are still better than the others that I have seen.They still include a few extra steps in machining & finishing that the others seem to be missing.
I've seen their packaging labeled "made in Mexico", made in Indonesia,and "made in USA"
I'll buy the best I can possibly find.
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Old July 17th, 2013, 02:00 PM
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Is it normal to use a little RTV on the outside of the axle seals? I would think it is not needed but when the guy did my Rallye 350 I watched him use just a little on the outside of the seal. I was getting ready to slide the axles in and thought about that. With them being bolt in I would not think it would hurt anything being there but in my off road ATV experience you never do that.
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Old July 17th, 2013, 09:11 PM
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I use a thin layer of rtv around the outside of the pinion seal. I wipe a layer of grease around the axle seals.
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