How do you you safely pull an axel?

Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:55 AM
  #1  
kaptmikey's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 21
From: Yorba Linda Calif.
How do you you safely pull an axel?

I have to pull an axel to replace a wheel stud, and after reading JMLondons problems after he pulled his axels, I'm just wondering,since I've never pulled one,What is the safest way to pull the axel so your not pulling it a second time to check on a spider gear? Thanks Michael
Old Feb 25, 2009 | 08:59 AM
  #2  
Eric Anderson's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 766
From: North East PA
What is the rear out of? I have never needed to pull the axel to change a stud.

Last edited by Eric Anderson; Feb 25, 2009 at 09:07 AM.
Old Feb 25, 2009 | 09:29 AM
  #3  
kaptmikey's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 21
From: Yorba Linda Calif.
Axel pull

Eric, sorry I forgot to post, I have a 56 Olds 88. The old stud was not all the way seated and it was a trashed left hand thread that was rethreaded for a right hand nut. Anyways it tapped out nicely, but I've not been able to reseat the new stud. I'm new, but I thought I had to pull the axel to take the assembly to a machine shop and have it pressed into place. Michael
Old Feb 25, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #4  
Eric Anderson's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 766
From: North East PA
I always put the stud in place making sure the splines line up and seat the stud by putting on a washer and pulling it into place with the lugnut.

Make sure its fully seated so it won't loosen up on you later.
Old Feb 25, 2009 | 10:30 AM
  #5  
wmachine's Avatar
Trying to remember member
 
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,112
From: Ohio
Originally Posted by Eric Anderson
I always put the stud in place making sure the splines line up and seat the stud by putting on a washer and pulling it into place with the lugnut.

Make sure its fully seated so it won't loosen up on you later.
x2

There's nothing a shop can do to press it in any better than pulling it into place by Eric's method. Just make sure you have enough washer(s) thickness that you seat it all the way and don't bottom out on the threads.
Old Feb 25, 2009 | 12:57 PM
  #6  
kaptmikey's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 21
From: Yorba Linda Calif.
Eric I tried that and even heated up the outside with a propane torch. I tried my best to line up the splines which was difficult and when I tightened the nut it started stripping threads inside the nut. Michael
Old Feb 25, 2009 | 01:20 PM
  #7  
Eric Anderson's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 766
From: North East PA
Hey Michael thats strange they seem to always go easy. Are you sure the stud is the correct one? Did you compare it to the one that came out? It might have a different spline count or is larger. For what it's worth I've never had to use alot of force even on the bigger trucks we run at work.

Last edited by Eric Anderson; Feb 25, 2009 at 01:45 PM.
Old Feb 25, 2009 | 04:45 PM
  #8  
kaptmikey's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 21
From: Yorba Linda Calif.
axel stud

Eric,
That's a good point, I thought all the GM's as far studs were the same. I'll get the glasses and give it a good look-see. cheers Michael
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
classicjoe
General Discussion
17
Aug 5, 2012 09:15 PM
jankyrre
Drivetrain/Differentials
9
Apr 13, 2012 07:37 PM
monzaspyder79
Drivetrain/Differentials
5
Jan 27, 2010 05:19 PM
D Appeldorn
Eighty-Eight
2
Jan 7, 2010 11:41 PM
redvettemike
General Discussion
1
Jun 3, 2009 06:52 PM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 09:03 PM.