Long story short, I had to pull the axles from the housing a couple of times, the final time being to get the flanges machined down for the rotors to fit. My memory is bad, but from the looks of these pics, the bearings were somehow split. Does these look right? Or do I need to review Bearings 101?





or
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink
and
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

 

I think one pic shows the bearing by itself and the other is the race on the outside covering the bearing. Normally the race would have stayed in the axle housing.

 

No it doesn't look right at all. I ran into this last fall. The top picture has the correct square cut bearings. The cone bearings mean they were replaced at some time with the wrong ones. Also you wouldn't grease that bearing since it's lubed by the gear oil in the tube. The parts you're referring to as 'split bearings' are actually the axle oil seals. They should be a tight fit like the ones in the pics I'm attaching. If they are loose enough to slide back and forth or they've been forced that far over you need to replace them (which means also replacing the bearings) or you'll have a major leak when you fill the diff with fluid. BTW, you're missing the axle seal gasket too.

OEM (original) oil seal and bearing. Note oil seal has cracked and is toast.


Recognize this? Same as yours. It was the wrong bearing for the axle. Required removal of the race in the tube


Both axle seals and bearings replaced. Note tight fits.


Ready for install. Put bolts into the tube flange, hang the gasket on them, and push the axle into the tube, tighten nuts. Should now be leakproof.

 

You are fine as long as the race is in the housing end.

There is the bearing (conical) there is the race that splits from the bearing and then there is a little thin ring that usually is attached to the race...but NORMALLY breaks off from the race once the axle is installed and run. The seal pushes against this little race and keeps the bearing seated in the race when installed and running.

The other one that is pictured in another persons posut is an original GM BOWER barrel type bearing that DOES NOT have any separate parts.

Help this helps your confidence.

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT SEAL FOR THE A9 SYSTEM OR YOU WILL HAVE A BEARING AND SEAL FAILURE VERY QUICK. USUALLY 712146 IS THE SEAL .490 THICK.

GOOD LUCK, JIM
JD

 

Thanks guys.....it's making a bit more sense to me after reading it 6 or 7 times.