starting the tear down

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Old July 1st, 2011, 10:32 PM
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starting the tear down

posted some pics of the tear down. we just got the car from my friends house. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/250005...supreme/page-2 we have a new front clip also minus the bumper. now just need a frame. someone was saying to cut the front frame rails off another car and weld it on ours but i'd rather see a new frame under it.
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 08:23 AM
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Looks like it was a nice car what happened?

Do you have an old school frame shop in your area? You might be able to save that one. A clean convertible frame will not be cheap.
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by gearheads78
Looks like it was a nice car what happened?

Do you have an old school frame shop in your area? You might be able to save that one. A clean convertible frame will not be cheap.

the death of a beautiful car because some dumb b**** was paying attention and pulled out in front of me
Looks like a fixable frame to me,I have saw way worse brought back........
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Old July 2nd, 2011, 09:11 PM
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some lady pulled out in front of me. yea the frame could be pulled but its how it would drive after. its kinked in two spots behind the control arm. the driver side wheel is pushed about 3in back
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Old July 11th, 2011, 11:00 PM
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There is a convert. frame in Southern Wisconsin..not sure where your at?
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Old July 12th, 2011, 08:03 AM
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i live in michigan. how much are they asking for it?
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Old July 12th, 2011, 08:16 AM
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not sure how much for just the frame, after finding the ad again, it seems it wont work for you anyways??
Sorry
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/pts/2448448374.html
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Old July 12th, 2011, 08:41 AM
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I've suggested this before and I'll mention it again. The only thing that makes a conv frame different from the HT frame is the boxing pieces on the center rails. Since you have those boxing pieces on your existing frame, buy a HT frame (nice ones are available cheap) and cut the boxing parts off of your existing frame and weld them to the HT frame. Instant conv frame. If you don't have the ability to do this work, I'm sure a shop would do it and in the end it will likely be cheaper. Been there and done it! OR, you could pay big bucks for a nice conv frame and just wrench away. If you decide to go with an original conv frame, don't throw away those boxing pieces as someone else may want them to do as I mentioned.
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Old July 12th, 2011, 10:27 PM
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thats probably what will happen but its just finding a frame within a reasonable distance to drive or delivered
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Old July 13th, 2011, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by sunsetlimited
thats probably what will happen but its just finding a frame within a reasonable distance to drive or delivered
I just took a look at the photos on the link you posted and I think I agree with Richard (Gearheads78) about looking into repairing that frame. Before you buy a frame or before you pull anything esle apart, I would seek out someone who knows how to work on these frames. I had a 71 442 many years ago that I purchased as a wreck and the RF rim (no tire on it) was touching the firewall. That frame was repaired and there was never an issue with alignment, drive quality or tracking. Your frame bent exactly where it was designed to bend and you'd be surprised how these things can be straightened. Find a person who knows how to do it and I think you can save yourself a lot of time and money. Also, get that cowl pulled on the driver's side before you do much more too. Don't try to adjust the door with the hinges. Leave the hinge adjustments as they are and have someone pull that cowl until the door fits like it did. Very easy to do. If you find a frame guy, ask him to make sure the frame isn't "diamonded" but if he's good, he'll be checking that already. In the end, if a good frame guy tells you it's worse than it looks, then at least you will know for certain.

Good luck.
Brian
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Old July 13th, 2011, 05:40 AM
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I've gotta agree with getting an estimate on straightening the original frame, especially with regards to the cowl.
The frame and cowl would be pulled together and measured together, and without the support of the frame, the cowl would be almost impossible to pull, seperatly!
If you feel the need to replace the frame, have a pull made on the cowl section with the old frame connected!
If it was my car, I'd try to straighten the old one before making a decision to replace!
It's amazing what a good frame man can do with the right frame machine and a few hours!
There are frame shops that specialize in frames - no bodywork - I'd be looking for!
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Old July 13th, 2011, 07:04 AM
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Let me suggest something you can check on the frame with a little measuring to see if the main center portion of the frame is still square. Under each corner of the front of the cowl, there will be 2 large holes and a small hole. The small one will be about 1" in diameter. There will also be the same size small holes further back on the sides of the frame just ahead of the rear wheels but behind the large hole for the rear body mount that sits about even with the rear of the rocker panel. Take an X measurement between these 4 small holes, meaning, measure from the LF hole over the the RR hole. Record that measurement. Now measure between the RF hole and the LR hole and record that measurement. Are they the same? If not, how much difference is there? Just be sure you have the take measure placed exactly the same for both measurements and you'll likely need an extra set of hands to help you. Be exact as the allowed tolerence for these measurements isn't much. This should be easy to do since the trans is out of the way. Go above any exhaust pipes so the tape measure is as flat as can be. Let me know what you find.

Brian
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Old July 13th, 2011, 10:01 PM
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we had one place look at it and said they wouldn't pull it and another say no less then $600 without even looking at it. someone we know also told us about a car for sale close by for $600. im not sure if its a cutlass or not, just that its an a-body so we'll check that out. thanks for all the replies they have been helpful.
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