One of the first things I want to get to after my back surgery heals sufficiently is convert my power drum brake 72 Cutlass to power disks. I have already purchased and assembled everything I need, including booster, master cylinder, junction block, correct lines to the calipers, hoses, the brackets to secure the hoses, etc. All the parts are genuine Olds, resurfaced rotors, pads, rebuilt calipers, inner and outer bearings, spindles etc. I think I just need to jack up and support at the frame rail, then jack up the lower control arm to take off the pressure and remove the nuts at the ball joints. How is the best way to get the ball joint shafts to release from their tight fit. I don't want to damage the ball joints or the rubber boots. Also, once they are loose, am I remembering correctly that I can slowly lower the lower control arm and remove the front coil spring? While I am in there, it probably makes sense to replace the springs before I bolt it back together.

 

If you've got all the parts, you only have to modify one part of your steering knuckle. That's in this link: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...onversion.html

Your timing is good. Rob (Lady72nRob71) and I are both going through this rebuild. There's some summary info listed under these links that will help you plan your build. Since I needed a lot of tutoring I also put in tons of pics. If you get lost anywhere I probably have a pic that may be helpful in my photo scrapbook. Here's the links for Rob and my builds

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ing-plate.html

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...+front+end+job



BTW, you'll also have to remove the stabilizer link kit because the stabilizer bar will get in the way when you take out the springs. When you do that, get a new set of link kits and front stabiizer mount bushings to replace the worn out old ones.

As far as releasing the ball joints? Remove the cotter pins holding the 'castle' nuts and undo the nuts about 5 turns. The shock will hold the control arms in place, but it's a good idea to support the LCA with a dolly jack. Take your BFH and whack the upper spindle attach on the raised surface. Should pop loose with a couple of blows. (Too light a hit will do nothing - hit it hard) The LCA ball joint - hit the steering arm on the round collette where the BJ snugs in. It will pop loose. Lower the CA to take out the spindle.

You CANNOT remove the front spring until the front shocks are out. Support the LCA and remove the 2 lower & 1 upper shock bolts. It really helps to soak them with a penetrating oil before you do this. If you are replacing the shocks, just overtighten the lower nuts till they bust off. It's easier than trying to undo them.

Once the shocks are out, wrap a chain around one of the coils and the UCA. This prevents any sudden pop out of the spring (if any). Gradually lower the CA till fully extended. IF the CA doesn't go down far enough, loosen off both sides of the LCA mounting bolts. It will go down a little further. Then grab one of the lower coils and give it a good tug. Should release really easy. I just pulled the front suspension, brakes and steering from the front end of my car and some of it was difficult only because I'd never done it before, and it was pretty crudded up. Most of the actual wrenching is basic and quite easy. If you have crud build up on your steering or suspension, try to clean some of it off before working on it. That really makes it easier to see what you're doing. Don't forget that some of these parts are 39 years old and may need persuasion to come out.

 

That sounds pretty straight forward. I have removed control arms and springs on my Bonneville, but it had factory disk brakes. I was replacing the ball joints, so I didn't care if I damaged them or tore the rubber boots. The ball joints on my Cutlass appear to be relatively new and the car drives straight as an arrow, no pull and no tire wear, so I hope to keep them in good shape.

 

It is for the most part. You shouldn't damage the ball joints just by removing the spindle. If you've done BJs, springs and CAs on your Bonneville, this is pretty much the same, just on an Olds. IIRC the only thing about B Body is that much different is the CAs, bushings and Springs are heavier duty. Wishing you a speedy recovery and rehab from your back surgery.

 

hope your project is going well.

I have a 95 cutlass convert. Iam not afraid to tackle rotor replacement, but would like to find a good step by step for this model and year. can you help?

thanks willr

 

95 is really quite easy.
1. Take off the wheels
2. Undo the caliper bolts (2 of them - use a 3/8 hex driver)
3. Suspend your caliper using a metal hanger. Do NOT use the brake hose to suspend it, use a wire through the caliper and run it to the strut coil.
4. The rotor pulls right off.

While you have the caliper off, check the pads. If they are more than 50% worn, consider replacing them with your new rotor.

You will have to push the caliper piston in to accomodate the size of the new rotor. When doing this remember:
1. Open the brake fluid reservoir. (if the level is already down to the add mark, you're ok, otherwise....)
2. Remove about 1/3 cup of fluid (you do this because when you press in the piston it will push fluid back into the reservoir).
3. Check your brake hoses while you're doing this. If they are cracked or brittle they should be replaced.

Back to reassembly.
1. Clean new rotors with brake clean to get rid of the factory coating on them. You don't want to contaminate the brake pads
2. Install the new rotors. If you change pads, the old ones are just clipped into the piston bowl and easily pop out. The new ones go in really easy.
3. Put the calipers back on and torque the bolts to around 100 ft/lbs
4. Top off brake fluid reservoir as needed.

If you decide to change your hoses, you'll have to bleed your front brakes. Changing hoses is not that hard, but it's not what you asked about. If you need help with them, we're here. There are also great self help videos like this on the web:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvGSMGYhBeQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5XjJY...feature=relmfu
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0IdNb3hEqI

I have a thread and pics on changing the brake hose/calipers that I did on my 98 if you run into any trouble.

 

I used two pickle forks to remove my ball joints quick and easy.

 

Just got in from removing all the steering linkages on my 72. Better to take it out as a unit, especially since I'm not going to re-use it. The pickle fork sure does make easy work out of separating the ball joints. Only thing is that you usually end up tearing the boot. But if you're planning to replace the ball joint/idler/tie rod anyway, who cares. I'm replacing the whole shebang except for the pitman arm. So it's just a bolt together, measure the existing idler length and reinstall new so it can drive to the alignment shop. EASY is GOOD. Ask me how I know...

 

Everything is brand new or rebuilt/resurfaced and assembled. From what I can gather, I only need to separate at the upper and lower ball joints (which are new) and steering knuckle, and then slip the new totally assembled disks onto the upper & lower ball joints and steering knuckle and tighten it up. I want to avoid the pickle fork route for exactly the reason stated. I don't want to ruin the boots since I am not replacing the ball joints. I have the new hoses and steel lines from the master, rebuilt and plated boosterand the brackets that hold the new rubber lines. Disks lines hoses and brackets are different than drum lines hoses and brackets.

I just thought it was also the perfect time to replace the old springs. I did yhis job on my 70 Bonneville, but there were a few complications to overcome. The front clip was removed and the engine was out of the car. Without the weight of the engine, you can't remove the springs by just lowering the car. I t required using spring compressors.

 

Do the springs sag? Have you measured the ride height of the car against factory specs? My front springs have 39 years of punishment and 120000 miles. They still hold the car nicely and are equal in height. I would only replace the front springs if I had to now. I had to take them out though to replace the UCA and LCA bushings - ugh! Still pretty easy taking out the springs, and I didn't need a spring compressor either.

 

My car doen't sag and I haven't measured the ride height, but sometimes I think it rides a little harsher than it should. It is an Olds, not a Chevy. I'm not looking for a living room sofa ride, but I just think it might make sense since I will be that far into it for a pretty easy replacement.

I owned a 69 Corvette Convertible from 1988 until 2004. It was a nice car, but had spacers in the front springs because they had sagged and it rode really rough. But then again, it was a Corvette and they were never intended to be silky smooth rides. Anyway, for the first 15 years I owned it, It rode rough! The last year I owned it, I made a lot of improvements including front and rear springs, and all the other Vette related things that need done. After a properly done alignment, I couldn't believe the improvement in the ride quality. I mean, it was still a Vette, not and Olds or a Caddy, but the improvement was amazing. And I kicked myself for not doing it 15 years earlier. As it turned out, I decided to sell the Vette, and the guy who bought it loved it and I'm sure it helped sell the car. There was never a question of the engine, because that 350hp 350 would flat get it!. But he got all the benefits of my suspension improvements, not me.

 

Haven't heard anything for awhile now. How's your back doing? Hope all is well