Hi All,

Just joined, and have a pressing problem. My driver's door is jammed closed (locked). The electric lock does not unlock it, and in fact if I try to unlock it using the power lock, while driving, the engine cuts out (every time). But if I let the lock switch go, the engine is OK.

I cannot pull the lock **** up either.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

Does it unlock with the key?

 

You didn't mention whether you've been driving this car regularly and this problem just suddenly occurred...or, whether the car's been sitting for an extended period of time...possibly allowing the latch or lock motor to rust and seize. And, not sure why the engine would cut out when you try the switch...but, when it comes to electrical, nothing surprises me.

If you can't manually pull up on the lock ****, I seriously doubt you can use the key. It's all inter-connected to the same linkage on the latch. I'd try rolling down the window and, with a flashlight, look down inside the door to inspect the latch for rust. Even if it looks decent, may as well try to spray some WD-40 or some such lubricant on the pivot points if you are able. There is a horizontal pivot bar on the latch that the the key lock, lock **** and power door lock linkage attach to. It kind of rocks up and down as either of those are moved...which in turn allows the interior and/or exterior door handles to either release the latch cams and open the door or, to not engage so the door can't be opened. You can try to get a long screwdriver down inside the door from the top to try and pry that pivot bar up or down. But, if the motor is seized in the lock position...or, any of the linkage is binding...it isn't going to move. Also, there is a small spring connected to the inner end of that vertical bar that could have broken and caused it to bind. Very hard, if not impossible, to see that from peering down inside the door, however. Aside from this, I'm not sure how you're going to free that linkage without removing the inner door panels to gain better access to the linkage or latch. And, of course, removing the door panels with the door closed is probably not possible without damaging them. The front seat would probably need to be removed to allow room to work, too. Doesn't sound like fun. Maybe somebody else has a better idea.

 

Thanks! This is super helpful. I just bought the car, it had been sitting for a long while, only occasionally being started. I will get some penetrating oil / WD-40 and soak it overnight with the window down, and see what happens in the morning.

 

Will be anxious to hear if you have any luck. If you need more info or pics as to how this all ties together, send me your e-mail address and I can attach photos with descriptions (have no idea how to attach photos on this site).

 

Found it!

I lubed the heck out of it all from above with WD-40 Penetrating Oil, was able to open the door panel enough to get a light in there. After soaking it, I used a screwdriver and crowbar to exercise things. No luck. Use a handcart to lift the door and wiggle it violently. While doing this and pulling the door handles (inside and out), it eventually popped open.

I was able to find 2 problems: (1) the electric lock cylinder was frozen. OK, so I snapped off the retaining ring from its connecting rod. I was able to wiggle the pawl (latch) that you see from the side of the door (the "hook" that grabs onto the cylinder in the doorframe - what's that called?) Then it clicked closed, and would not open. Door will not close now, but I got a good look. The housing around that little hook is worn THROUGH the top, the sheet metal can around it is just half gone on top. Seems the door sagged and nobody ever adjusted the hinges to accommodate.

It looks like I can drill the screws from the door, and pop out the entire assembly, with only the exterior key rod and interior lock rod to connect.

Anyone know where I can get this subassembly?

Thanks again, everyone!

 

That's great news...congrats! Hard part is done. Now, to replace the latch ***'y. Be advised that there are no repros out there that I've seen...so, you'll need to find a good used one. If you need help with that, let me know. Other thing you should replace is the door Striker...that torx-headed stud that screws into the door post that the latch "hook" grabs onto when you shut the door. That Striker is supposed to have a nylon bushing around the shank and I'm certain yours has been worn away as 99.9% of them have by this time.

What are you going to do about the seized electric lock motor? Just leave it disconnected...or, find another to replace it? I can maybe help with that as well if you wish.

 

So I was going to leave the electric lock disconnected and call it even.

What about this part? It looks like it should work, even if it's not specific to our car:

http://www.andysautosport.com/oldsmo...tches/autoloc/

What is this latch really called?

Thanks for reminding me about the striker - that's readily available.

 

I have no idea how much work a universal latch would be to retro fit to your car. Never knew anyone who attempted it. Personally, seems too much work to redesign, modify and align everything when I can readily pull a used latch ***'y, clean it, lube it up and install it just as intended from the factory. But, to each his own. Good luck!

 

OK, got it all sorted out. I used the Autoloc kit, which actually worked well enough. But first, I had to install a Dorman hinge repair kit - the sag was huge. Needed to drill the pin out, the knurls were rusted in so tightly that the old pin could not be pressed out. It took a couple tries to find the right location for the latch, and BTW you cannot use the old latch post - the diameter is a little too small and it rattles a bit even after latching. I was able to bend my inner door handle rod to make it shorter, pressed a press nut over it and it worked fine. Need to fabricate a link bar for the exterior handle now, and install the lock pawl. Could not find a Cutlass-specific latch, except for a used on in Louisiana for $550 (!).

 

What? $300 for a latch is crazy unless it's NOS. And delivered. And installed.
I have quite a few donor cars.
Keep this number: 517..449.043 two
Text or call.

I would think maybe $30 at the most for a latch. Better yet, get one from a CA or SW USA car.

Use FACTORY parts when possible.
Can't get new? Refurbish your old.
I would have suggested
remove old latch asm.
degrease it with say brake cleaner
soak it in rust remover converter chemical for a day or so
make sure everything is freed up
dry it off and spray it inside and out with white grease.
Work it so that all the joints are well lubed.
Reinstall.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/One-L...item51bd9a3dc4

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rust-...item2c815ab236

 

Octania, I sent you a text

 

I agree with Octania regarding using OEM parts if possible. Heck, I'd have pulled everything you needed for $50 (including linkage) if you had asked. Was suggesting that in my previous posts...but, you seemed intent on pursuing this with new parts and so I thought I'd keep my nose out of it. I've got dozens of this era Cutlasses near me, as well. Am always helping other car guys with their used parts.

 

Heck, I was only doing it this way because I couldn't find anything used / OEM online or locally, even tried the "parts finder" services.

If you have an OEM / used one in hand, or can get one, I'd happily buy it from you! I have intentionally not damaged anything, hoping to use the original, but the spring and other parts seem broken, looks like I cannot use it.

Please send me a PM with contact info so I can reach out.


have

 

Text received. I sent it along to Amish John, who lives out there and should be able to assist.... I have not heard back from either.