kjr442

Not in copper, just pvc.

MDchanic

By the look of the second picture, I think you could use the PVC overflow pipe and mold it to shape with a heat gun. Practice with a piece of scrap if you're not sure how it works - heat it gradually and evenly, then gently bend it. Best if you connect it to the drain at the low end, then heat it, and bend it to make up with the tub at the top end.
If you've got a lever-operated drain stopper from the overflow plate, you may have to switch to a simpler type plug if you bend the overflow.
Also, you could frame out that opening and get rid of that stud in the middle, if it's driving you nuts to work past it.

- Eric

firefrost gold

they make a heat blanket that you can use ,they can be bought at home depot.
Come in a few sizes .

Higgins

Looks like a pvc flex tube will work the best for you. They are pretty cheap and you can get them in 6" & 12" lengths. How did you manage to get the counter top off?

gearheads78

Looking underneath I saw that that corner was made from a 2nd piece. I carfully removed the lamenate top and found a couple of screws and was able to pry it right up. I'm glad I did because I would have never made it with my body laying through the little side cabnet I took off.

Schne442

Rich, from the looks of the picture that you posted you should be able to install the drain pop up pipe and the T piece into the draine pipe in the ground. Then you can cut the overflow pipe and install two 45*fittings to make up for the offset. Eather PVC or copper can be used. You will just have to use toe tap type drain not the overflow lever type. OR......
If you can dig out the soil around the drain and cut it back then you can do the off set 45*s to bring the trap back in line then install the drain assembly.
Gary

Col Wickham

What's that PVC pipe,..50mm ? Looks to me like 2 x 45deg bends, a couple of short pieces of pipe as inserts to get you centred over and down to the drain and a tapered fitting which fits hard into the drain will do the trick. Get it all set up and mark your pieces before reaching for the PVC adhesive first. Those tapered fittings are good. I used one in my bathroom for a clawfoot bath which isn't even glued in meaning I can lift and move the bath any time. There's no way it'll leak cos it's wedged into the drain pipe hard. Start with the tapered sleeve and work your way back to the pipe your holding in the pic. If you do it the other way round you might come up a little short and the sleeve won't be wedged into the drainpipe firm enough. Good luck

gearheads78

I found a 22degree elbow while at lunch today. I think it will let me do what I need to do. Fingers crossed.

coltsneckbob

It's her tub have ur daughter squeeze in there !!!!!!

coltsneckbob

Yea lets get serious.

Have you looking into renting the Chunnel Machine. That should create a big enough hole for u to work through.

coltsneckbob

Well, in this case just think of this as an opportunity to please the wife with a bathroom remodel !!!

coltsneckbob

OK, I know I've already posted too many stupid comments..........well so one more shouldn't matter right???

You may also view this as great opportunity to put in a basement!!!

I am just the eternal optimist.....ain I ??

Bluevista

My credo is is that you can never make too many stupid comments, only too many comments that are stupid.

Don't put in a basement, raise the house up and put a garage/shop in below it.

Is that the top of the trap below that lower fitting? There should be water sitting in it if it is.
If it's far enough down use a couple of PVC fitting and some pipe to get it back up and over then tie the bath drain downpipe into a fitting on that.
Buy a bunch of different angled fittings, regular and street type (street fittings have one male end), then use what you need and take the rest back, otherwise you end up running back to the store every ten minutes.

There has to be a trap or the sewer gas will go into the house, it can be dangerous, and smells really bad.
An S trap may work there if it needs one.
It's hard to tell how far down that lower fitting is in the pics, if it's that tight and a flexible slip coupling is all that will work use one of those if you have to.
My dear departed father, and fearless leader, would of smacked me upside the head if he ever caught me using me using one of those flexible deals on a job, at home... no problem.

S trap info.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/p...in2/s-trap.htm

kjr442

Are you having fun yet?
My Dad would have said "Are you done yet?"Or, "Don't let it intimidate you"!

Schne442

Master Plumber

2blu442

Man, I know nothing about plumbing so I didn't reply the first day. But I'm amazed at how many posts are now on this thread! I haven't read them all, but I hope your on the right path to fixing the drain Richard John

gearheads78

I would go broke as a plumber but looks like after water testing this morning I have made a successful repair.

Lady72nRob71

Congrats!
Mission accomplished.

Jamesbo

Congrats Richard

I knew you could do it.

Schne442

Now for the fun part, putting the cabinet and counter top back together

Col Wickham

That's the shonkiest piece of pipe work I've ever seen
Well done Rich,..tough space to work in & you got it sorted.
The only PVC glue I've seen here is blue,...yours is purple. Another fundamental difference between our 2 great nations
Good luck rebuilding the house around it and be sure to use "The Clubhouse" for your next home repair or renovation question. The expertise on this site extends far beyond Oldsmobiles
Cheers

Oldsguy

Richard, glad you got it fixed, thanks for the update. BTW, I had not noticed the wagon, guess that is your new project?

gearheads78

Is shonkiest good or bad The primer is the purple the glue itself is clear.

Had it for a while just have not touched it yet

Col Wickham

Richard..."shonky" (and I was being sarcastic thus the smiley faces...you've done a bloody good job under tough circumstances) means,... well built by the likes of these two:


Interesting on the purple primer. The stuff we get here is pink/red and the glue is bright blue.
I've done a lot of plumbing around the place, in fact spent last Thursday fixing stuff around my Mother's place. Definitely 90% inspiration when it comes to figuring out how to join pipe A to pipe B. In her case it took $120 worth of fittings to hook up a $90 pump to some 30 year old plumbing. You learn a lot from watching guys who get paid more than dentists for sticking plastic pipes together and it's definitely worth having a go yourself before shelling out the big bucks. Once again...good job.

lshlsh2

Conngrats on the fix.

Most of the glue here is clear. There is a blue glue here that I have used to fix our irrigation system. It will set up wet and even under water which can be great for fixing broken pipes in a short amount of time under bad conditions.
Larry

bil

Looks like you've got it! Late now,but one thing I found out about that purple primer/clear glue setup is to mark how far in the fittings your pipe is before you glue-this type I have had 'push' and ruin a joint.Sometimes they need to be held together for just a bit at first.Congrats on the fix job! ---bil

citcapp

Congrats, Richard

Your now a master plumber as well as a body, frame, engine, suspension, welder master

gearheads78

I mocked it together about 4 times with no glue and marked how deep to go on each piece.

coltsneckbob

The purple primer was probably purchased at Home Depot.......I have used enough of that stuff for sure.

coltsneckbob

Actually at Home Depot (or Lowes) you can buy a clear primer, but generally if your work is to be inspected by a building/plumbing inspector they want you to use purple to show that you in fact used primer. For outside work HD sells a more durable weather resistant glue that is a bright blue color. I use it for my pool pump and filter set up. In that case I don't use the purple primer as the resultant color just doesn't look right (even though the pumps are hidden from the pool area).

Kyle's 77 Cutlass

great job, you got r done.

MDchanic

Nice work - to steal a line from the pilots, any repair that doesn't leak is a good repair.

You inspired me to go after my own leaky tub, and, after the usual setbacks (best one was when the washing machine began to drain and poured water through the kitchen ceiling through the place where the bathtub line was disconnected above the trap - waste system had been build badly and tilted toward the tub...), it's good to go.
The problem was that the tub was rotted through just next to the drain fitting.

Thanks for getting me going on my own project!

- Eric

Col Wickham

That sounds ugly Eric Write to our prime minister and see if she'll send some of our new flood tax money over to fix the kitchen ceiling
You have a washing machine upstairs?
I must admit I'm inspired by Richard's work too. I've got some external plumbing I've been putting off for too long so sometime soon I'll definitely think about fixing it......when it gets cooler.....maybe.

MDchanic

Well, that is where most of the dirty laundry is made...

The basement's too wet for anything metal (granite block foundation),
the first floor's got no good spaces for a washer, and
the second floor's got a big bathroom that's just right for a washer and dryer.

Fortunately, the portion of the kitchen below the washer has a drop ceiling, so I can go up there to work when problems develop.
Unfortunately, most of the plumbing was done by the marginally competent, so work needs to be done from time to time.

Col Wickham

I know what you mean Eric. My place was built by the original owner on his days off, and mostly out of second hand bits & pieces. We've pretty much pulled it back to the timbers as we've renovated and some of the stuff we've found is pretty unusual.
So I'd never seen a basement until I visited Canada in 79. We don't have them here but I think they're a great idea. Today for example is around 105deg right now and it would be cool down in a basement. Those I did see had the laundry equipment down there plus a whole lot of heating stuff but I guess they didn't have a moisture problem.
Here we've always got a dedicated laundry for washers, dryers etc, and they're always on the ground floor. I have never seen an upstairs laundry in a freestanding house, thus my question.

MDchanic

'Round here (northeast US), they built houses on a granite block foundation (no mortar) from around the time they stopped sleeping in tents and lean-tos (soon after 1620 to 1630) until the advent of concrete sometime in the early 1900's.

Generally, the basement was hand-dug, down to about half the expected basement height, with the dirt thrown up around the hole making up the other half of the height, so that the house sat up on a bit of a berm (If you were digging your basement by hand, you'd take shortcuts, too...).

The basement served two purposes in those days:
One was to keep the house in place on the ground, that is to prevent its being heaved up by frost, etc.
The other was as a place to store food in the many years before refrigeration. The winters were long, and nothing grows under several feet of snow, so families would preserve fruits and vegetables and lay in ones that didn't require preservation, such as apples, potatoes, cabbages, etc. A cool (about 40° in the wintertime, and probably 60° in the summer) basement facilitated long-term food storage.

Unfortunately, a cool, damp basement does nothing at all for the modern man who wants to store something other than rutabagas, as wood rots and metal rusts in that environment, making it nothing more than place of destruction for anything left there, so its essentially useless space for me.

As far as the placement of the washer and dryer - in a house that was built without electricity or plumbing, you can put darn near anything darn near anywhere, because no part of the house was built to hold these conveniences, and since most clothing and linen changes occur upstairs, then why not put the washer and dryer there? I've seen this in other houses around here as well, but not in very many - I think most people just didn't think of it.

- Eric

Col Wickham

That is interesting Eric. Thanks for taking the time to explain. So does your home have a heritage covenant? I'm guessing it's pretty old.

MDchanic

Our place, at somewhere around 175 years old, is one of the newer houses in the village, which was founded in the 1650's (making it older than many villages in England).
Our house is not landmarked, or on the historic register, though it probably could be if we were to apply for it. Around here, one avoids having a house landmarked, though, because it automatically restricts what you can do with your house (such as paint it purple, like we did), and reduces the resale value.

- Eric

ps: it's a discrete shade of purple...

Col Wickham

Eric, if your house was in Australia it would not only heritage listed but it would also be the oldest house here by 150 years. That's amazing. And my place has lots of discreet purples & mauves as well....I like it.

Jamesbo

Eric/Col,

My old farm house had a crawl space for storing taters but I built a 15 X 15 scrren poarch onto the back. I was tired of crawewling around with the spiders to fix a pump, change a water filter etc. So I build a basement under the porch. To make it water proof [form the screen poarch floor.] I put a metal roof under the floor joist sloping away from the house and cut weep holes into the band. I got the idea from seeing alot of boat hose with upper decks built that way.

Now, I've got my HVAC, presssure tank etc all in the new basement and room to stand up