Greg - Dan's advice was good but there are a couple caveats working on faders, volume tuner controls:
(1) It's meticulous business - you need to be meticulous. Since you're not rebuilding/repairing the entire radio/receiver, etc. e.g. working from a DIY/amateur perspective, don't expect any form of resolution simply spraying. You have to take each piece of equipment completely apart to reveal the 'pods' e.g. rheostat, fader, tuner, etc. You might not have to remove each device, but you need remove as many items as you can to reveal & get as far down into the gammish.
(2) Use a combination of several things:
(a) Good quality contact cleaner - e.g. good quality is key. I like CRC products;
(b) Be very liberal w/ compressed air both prior to spraying contact cleaner and while soaking spraying contact cleaner;
(c) Soak 'thoroughly'. The best contact cleaners will evaporate exceedingly well w/ no/limited residue. Use compressed air to help remove oxidized deposits of metal. This is generally 90% of the issue. The metal oxidizes, loses it's ability to make good contact(s). You want to remove this oxidation layer.
(d) Never think several spins of the dial are going to work. You need to rotate the dial (tuner, fader, pod, etc.) at least 50 to several hundred times - that's what it takes to remove the oxidized metal.

So, the above may or may not work. I've been down this road enumerable times w/ many pieces of equipment and with varying degrees of success - often times very good success.

EDIT: I should mention you often can't 'visualize' oxidized metal so don't 'expect' to see a visual difference. I can assure you it's the oxidation which develops most of time (save for maybe the occasional capacitor gone bad).

 

Sunny and 48°.

 

Ran into a SNAFU - big SNAFU. Installing glow plug into #8 cylinder and the glow plug slid to the side of the threaded pedestal which contains the glow plug. Argh - I am screwed. Spent ~1 hr. trying to retrieve it - no go. I have 8 or 9 different sized hemostats and I can't grab the glow plug to remove it. Tough (Impossible) to see the threaded pedestal inside the hole & the damn glow plug fell to the side of the pedestal. The pedestal is surrounded by essentially a void (space) then the side walls of the head. I think there's a hole down the void (somewhere) which acts as an oil drain. I am so screwed right now. Calling it a day to eat, do some engine research & clear my mind of this SNAFU. I should have used something like vacuum hose to hold glow plug in place. I'm definitely doing that moving forward. I'm mentally really anguished right now thinking how I'm going to resolve this issue. WTF, I don't have time for the B.S. I'd HATE to have to remove a fuel inject oil rail just to fish this damn thing out. Damn, damn, damn it to hell.

Thus far there is what appears to be good news. I'm working on the LH side of the engine (cylinders 2,4,6,8). All glow plugs have failed. Not one single glow plug demonstrates continuity - all are TU. I did manage to install three of the four glow plugs. So, hopefully the glow plug controller is good, The glow plug(s) wiring harness looks good, I'm installing a new one anyways. I guess tomorrow I'll begin R&R on cylinders 1,3,5,7. Need to put some serious thought into fishing out #8 glow plug. Time for dinner. Ugh.

 

Norm - So sorry to hear about the snafu with the glow plug. I'm not sure about the composition of a diesel glow plug, but could you potentially reach/retrieve it with an adjustable, telescoping magnetic retriever tool (pic)? It telescopes to much longer than seen in the pic. I've been able to retrieve more nuts, bolts, etc. than I care to list with the one in the picture. The end with the magnet is infinitely adjustable to all angles, 360°, and the magnet is very strong.

 

Chris - I own a half dozen telescoping magnets & a flex extension magnet. Once a glow plug is loosened it is removed w/ a magnet. That's how each is removed. The 'issue' is the glow plug has fallen to the side of its normally centered threaded pedestal position into a void & appears it may have 'wedged' itself into this position just enough as to make it encumbered and not simply 'laying' freely in there.

 

Understood.

 

Image I found on Internet. Cyl #8 (problem cyl) is next to firewall w/ steering column & shock mount tower obstructing view - essentially a blind hole (as stated earlier). Yellow arrow where glow plug should mount into raised center threaded pedestal. Inserting the glow plug it missed the center threaded pedestal & fell into the empty (void) side - so it's in there cattywampus (Red Arrow). I still have 'some' skin remaining on my knuckles. This image makes it appear far much easier than it looks. Glow plug is 5" long. A better design would have been to put a collar around the top of the glow plug pedestal to remove any doubt about dropping a glow plug to the side. They forgot to call me during design phase - ********. Oh, I'm not the only person to have done this. Found one full-time mechanic who has done it a couple times over a seven year period.

 

The pic you provided says it all. Some kind of guide around the pedestal certainly would have been nice. $hitty design and you're left paying the price. That sucks!

 

Hi everyone.

Spent a wonderful afternoon with some excellent people. The only problem is I don't get to see them often enough. Had some good food, too.

Been cloudy and yucky all day. And now it is cloudy and yucky at night.

Walmart tomorrow and maybe tree if it doesn't rain. No idea what it's going to do.

Hope everyone is having a good weekend.

 

I had a grabber tool for many years but it's been AWOL quite some time. Not certain I could/can get hold of the glow plug, but likely a try might be worth the effort. They make a variety of sizes/styles/shapes. Think I'll head to Ace & a parts store around noon tomorrow. I really, really, really don't want to pull the valve cover & likely the fuel injector oil rail stand pipe to fish this bastard out. The tip of each glow plug is centered at the top of each cyl. in the intake manifold in what would be nearly directly in the center of the moving piston. The immediate amperage draw from the battery makes each glow plug 'glow' (heat up) very quickly. You can't start a diesel w/o a glow plug. Glow plugs shut down (no longer heat-up/draw amperage) once engine is started as they are no longer needed (in most diesel engines). The high compression along w/ diesel fuel in each cylinder fires each cylinder as opposed to a low compression gasoline engine which requires spark plug(s).

EDIT: With a couple images this time.

 

Mike - Have fun at Walmart...

 

I found two more hemostats in a drawer - I'm pulling at straws.

 

Norm is the plug broke off?

 

Keith - No. It is a brand new glow plug. It simply fell to the side. Thanks for thinking of me. Also, mine is a 2003 (build date prior to 9/23/03). The glow plug harness in that video is the later (post 9/23/03) glow plug harness. Additionally, they changed size (length) of the glow plugs after 9/23/03. Doing additional research (which I've never done before on the deltas between the 7.3 liter and 6.0 liter diesels) the 7.3 liter you have to remove valve cover to change glow plugs; not so on the 6.0 liter. So they evidently changed the head style between 7.3L & 6.0L - they being International Harvester now known as Navistar.

 

Got it. You will no doubt get it sorted one way or another.

Take good care

 

The saga continues...

 

Norm, can you suck it out with a small vacuum attachment? Or possible move it to a more favorable position to then grab it

 

Norm, Thanks for advice on my old Sansui- not sure if I really want to mess with it though. Good luck with the glow plug problem- no doubt you will get it.
I got the AM FM stereo radio from Joe looks good. Now I have a winter project on Olds!

 

Ray - Vacuum attachment is a brilliant idea. Last night I read the same suggestion on the Power Diesel forum. The member asking advice didn't try it but I'm going to give it a try in a little while. I do have several small vacuum attachments I use when cleaning various components esp. my PC desktop as well as other appliances, etc. I'm not certain there's enough length to get to it, but hey I'm going to try it none-the-less.

Greg - You're welcome & thanks. Good luck w/ the radio situation.

 

I spent ~45 minutes attempting to negotiate GP removal w/ an additional (larger) magnet & hemostats - NO BUENO.
This may turn into a MAW project. If I have to remove the LH valve cover to retrieve this GP, I'm going to remove the turbo. Removing the turbo is a serious job; yet, the majority of components required to access the turbo I will have already removed to remove the valve cover. I won't list/enumerate those items suffice it to say there's an assload of them.

I removed the 4 GPs from the RH engine bank this morning. Instead of pulling them out w/ a magnet (suspect to falling) I used a piece of vacuum hose to hold the top of each GP & it worked like a champ. I'll be using the same method when I install the new ones.

Regarding the RH side of the engine. You might recall the service garage next door made some derogatory comments to me when I questioned them regarding oil leaking from the RH side of the engine after I spent $7500 smackers to have them replace the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump). They should never have accepted the work/job - they know **** about working on a diesel &/or this diesel. Their comment(s) to me during several conversations ended any chance of negotiations, repeat service etc. when they stated: "Norm, you don't enough money w/ us." Losers, all of them. I have neither acknowledged their presence or said one single word to any of them for well over one year & it will remain this way in perpetuity. Anyways, the RH side of the engine is leaking oil & creating a mess. GPs are saturated w/ oil, oil dripping everywhere, etc. LH side of the engine is fine. I "think" the oil leak is coming from the RH valve cover (which is above the GPs), I'm not 100%, but it appears that way.

If I have to remove the LH valve cover to gain access to retrieve this lost GP & if what appears to be the RH valve cover is where the oil leak is coming from, I'll likely pull both valve covers & remove the turbo - MAW. The turbo certainly needs to be removed very soon & thoroughly cleaned or a new turbo installed ($$). Which, then leads to R&R of several attendant sensors, O-Rings, EGR, MAF, etc. At ~200K miles I MAW.

I've run out of GO-JO hand cleaner. Ace Hardware & Autozone are across the street from one another ~1/2 mile - 3/4 mile from my home. The Indian is all clean w/ the cover on it (still for sale). I'm going to walk to Ace & Autozone to contemplate & clear my head.

 

Hi everyone.

Storm last night, it rattled Tiger a little but he wanted to go out. Pouring rain, he went out just far enough/long enough to pee then ran right back in. I think I can come up with an interim potty room that will help, until I can come up with the real thing.

Norm you've inspired me. I would no more do that job than nothing, but my own diesel truck, which hasn't run in about a year, needs much less but my go-to answer has been, I can't do that. Well, I can't get anyone to work on it for me and I think I will get the parts and just do it. I mean, it's sitting there not running and I can't drive it, so how can I make it worse? It needs a harmonic balancer and also a fusible link.

Does anyone know anything about army tents? This guy up in Indiana is selling these big tents, think the mess tent on MASH, for 550. It would be an excellent and cheep way to get some of the cars out of the weather. Currently they are folded up and in boxes and I don't know for how long. Questions I have, how long can they stay in the box, and after being set up, how long will they remain viable, and is there any ongoing maintenance they need? Also, will stuff I put in there and leave start to mold? I could leave a side panel off so it's well vented.

Gonna paint in the upstairs bedroom closet this afternoon. I took Monday and Tuesday off and plan to do tree stuff, and I want to start working on the convertible and get that moved to my house. I went to start the Valiant the other day and the battery is kaput, so I'll run right over to the battery place for a new one.

Okay time's a wasting. Have a good afternoon everyone.

 

Norm try sum Kelly's

 

X 2 mike

 

Mike - I wish you lived closer, I'd be happy to help you.

Jim - Honestly, I have been using Kelly's. I figured no one would know what they were (I have at least 9-10 various styles, shapes, sizes). More to follow on this in next post (below).

 

I have 'some' good news on a couple levels:

(1) Replaced all 4 GPs & torqued to spec on RH side of engine. Using vacuum hose is the absolute best way to go on GP removal & installation. I did not install new GP wiring harness - yet; since, I hadn't made up my mind regarding the supposed leaking RH valve cover on same side. That GP wiring harness would have to be removed if I pulled the RH valve cover on that side. However,
(2) There's no apparent oil leaking from the top of that valve cover - only the bottom. I managed to get a 12mm box-end on those valve cover bolts and two of them were modestly/fairly loose. Loose enough I could get several additional decent wraps/turns with the box-end to tighten them up thoroughly. Torque value = 190 inch pounds - not too significant and I couldn't tell how much they were previously torqued (to spec?). Impossible to get a torque wrench on all but one of the valve cover bolts (currently). Since the GPs are torqued to 167 inch pounds I have a good 'feel' what a roughly 165 in-lb to 180 in-lb 'feels' like. Cleaned all oil residue from everywhere I could. It 'appeared' the bottom of that valve cover gasket wasn't what I'd call 'centered' into its channel, but I can't validate this w/o removal of the valve cover itself. Therefore, I (re)tightened all valve cover bolts on the bottom and I'm now going to call it a day on the (most likely) RH valve cover gasket perceived issue. This isn't a show-stopper - I'll continue to monitor as I have been over the past 1+ year. Like anything it's possible they've loosened up on their own over time especially if the valve cover gasket isn't in its exact channel location (e.g. the loser mechanics next door). And, to be clear, I monitor the oil religiously/continually. The exterior of the manifold and head gets a decent amount of seepage (based on driving) but we're not talking 'significant'. I might lose a quart of oil in 5,000 miles - maybe. So, no worries when the oil volume is 15 quarts to begin with. The reason it has such a large volume is because both oil & coolant circulate in the engine to remove heat in the engine. The oil cooler alone is the size of an automobile radiator.
(3) Ray - I tried the vacuum I really thought it might work - had a great fit to the GP hole & I thought it might have a chance. No luck - thus far. There still 'might' remain a possibility based on what I found (next, below).
(4) I need 1/2 dozen arms & hands to maneuver in position(s) and it's literally impossible to visualize where the GP is located. My only attempts to visualize require both a directed light source from a pen-light & a small articulating mirror. Well, I'll be damned I was looking at what I 'thought' was the tip of the GP but it is not the tip of the GP. Hell, may even be a chance it's like a ball between a rocker arm & push rod - who knows; but, it damn sure isn't the lost GP. Turning my arms, legs, neck into a better position w/ both pen-light & mirror I have now unmistakably found the GP. Not where I suspected. Still in the void area, but certainly not where I was attempting to retrieve it. With better visualization I can now see nearly the entire top 1/4 of the 5" long GP. I could stick my pinky finger in there and actually feel it quite well. This has me quite relieved, since;
(5) I purchased a new flexible clamp grabber this morning at Ace Hardware. I haven't tried to grab the top of the glow plug, yet; since I'm taking relief from these bodily contortions. I'd say my optimism of retrieving this GP has 'soared' from 4% or 5% to a whopping 25% - that's significant. I'm looking forward to getting back at it and have my fingers crossed. If the grabber isn't working I might still have a chance with a smaller vacuum nozzle now that I know where it is located and can visualize it.
(6) I can leisurely (more or less) spend time re-installing the RH inner fender well since even if I elect to R&R the turbo the turbo R&R is done from the LH side of the engine - where the lost GP resides. I wouldn't necessarily 'have' to remove the LH inner fender well but it sure makes life a lot easier if you're removing the turbo. So, I await to see what happens retrieving the GP first before I make a decision on the turbo and re-installing the LH inner fender well. IOW, I might toss it back together if I can retrieve the GP then do turbo sometime later. Still in limbo on this decision.

Holy smokes - that was quite the diatribe, eh?

Finally, on my walk back from Ace Hardware/Autozone I stopped by this new BBQ joint which opened about 1 month ago called Red Neck BBQ Lab. There was previously a BBQ joint in the same building/location - not really all that good, I'd say it was fair. So, I picked up some vitttles & fix'ns along w/ a nice piece of chocolate cake to eat at home. Their cornbread is delicious. They have both pork & beef brisket. Wow! You don't often see the same BBQ joint selling both port & beef around here anywhere. I grabbed a pound of pulled pork and a pound of Burnt Ends (beef). Everything was delicious. I'm sure to be sleepy after hitting the diesel tractor for another 1/2 hr or so. If you made it this far, you deserve a medal.

 

Norm - That's great you actually found the missing GP, and the task is trending in the right direction! I hope you can get in there and ****** that ***** from the jaws of defeat.

BBQ sounds delicious. I'm going the easy route this evening with a Home Run Inn Meat Lovers Pizza and a couple of cold ones. I'm settled in watching the Pack and Vikings, great game so far. Good luck!

 

Hot diggity dog biscuits. Percentage increased from 25% to 100%.
I'm talking HOLIEST OF ALL SNOT ROCKETS!!!!
Retrieved, inserted & torqued. Torque wrench now set to zero.
Yeah Skippy I'm going to sleep like one happy camper.

 

Since I don't have cable T.V. and never intend to get cable T.V. ever again, I'll have to figure out where to catch it on the Internet. It most likely isn't being streamed (for free) so I may have to radio broadcast. We'll see.

What's the score? Go Pack.

 

Oh **** - Pack 10, Vikings 20.
Go Pack.

 

Thanks Norm. I'm going to start ripping and tearing on the driveway and if I really screw the pooch maybe my neighbor the hot rodder will help me. You're rather brave taking on a big project like that on the only vehicle you have to drive.

So Jimmy Carter has died. I was a child when he was president so I really don't remember much first hand, but history hasn't been very kind to him. He's worked hard since being president to bring peace, keep peace, do stuff for people, I think he was trying all those years to make up for being a medeocre leader. He put up a hell of a fight, getting to 100.

Got most of the closet painted this afternoon. There's a framed-in post that creates about 8 walls in the closet, a couple of them small. But I kept leaning against the wet walls trying to paint so I figured I'd get back to it later when the paint isn't wet. No wonder I kept putting that off, that job sucks.

 

That's great Norm, very happy for ya! 👍

 

Mike - If push comes to shove w/in reason, the Indian operates flawlessly. I'm not keen to riding it at the moment since it's in hibernation mode. And, if the bottom falls out of the bucket & I 'require' a vehicle for short length of time there are car rental agencies.

I forgot to mention my experience w/ army tents. Our family had several older (1950s/1960s) canvas types of various sizes throughout the years. I can't recall each question you asked but I stumble a reply. Hey, I found your post.

Addressing those two questions my reference is having worked w/ canvas army tents but I've helped to assemble quite a number of heavy duty polyester fabric tents, as well - for very many types of events.

(1) In both cases, canvas or polyester, it's a crap shoot knowing how long they can stay in a box. Under 100% optimum climate controlled conditions brand new never opened I'd expect they'd last 50 yrs - 100 yrs e.g. no exposure to sun, rain, soil or any elements. In terms of a possible purchase, I would not buy one unless the seller was willing to provide pictures in their fully opened state - not necessarily 'assembled', but fully opened. I'd be suspect of three areas: (1) The best quality tents have double &/or triple fabric corners & any areas where poles are secured to the tent. Some of the highest quality tents may have either metal or another similar heavy duty material used in these locations. (2) All fabric used in making the tent is suspect to mold - mold is a killer. Mold is a fungus, as such it requires moisture for growth & it's the moisture + mold which will accelerate degradation of the fabric - in particular the corners and around any stitching. Use due-diligence in determining if any mold already exists. (3) Stitching is highly suspect to mold - whether the stitching is cotton, hemp or a type of polyester. The primary reason is when you 'stitch' anything, you punch a gazillion tiny holes in the any fabric. This in turns exposes the fabric and stitching to the elements. A great place for mold to grow.

This is another crap shoot entirely dependent on climatic conditions - sunlight will destroy ANY fabric if exposed to the sun on a daily basis. How long the fabric lasts or how soon it begins to deteriorate depends on how much exposure to the elements & quality of the fabric material i.e. sun, moisture & soil (dirt, leaves, branches etc. = detritus).

To help reduce/hinder degradation of the fabric & stitches you should hand apply a tent seam sealer. I've owned many tents and seam sealer is critical to longevity. Apply every few years - mostly dependent on exposure to the elements. Seam sealer will save your tent(s).

In summary: Stitching is generally where mold begins to develop - any place with significant moisture. Thousands of stitching pin-holes exposes significant fabric to the elements. Liberally clean when you can and hand-apply a seam sealer when a tent is new or any time the seams need a new application of seam sealer. If these tents have flaps, they likely have borders with lots of stitching. The seller should provide evidence the stitching (and/or fabric) is free from mold.

You can spray several types of solution to hinder mold growth and remove mold growth. Make a solution of (3%) Hydrogen Peroxide to one pint of white vinegar. Cheep & effective. Make a larger batch in a hand-held 2.5 gal. wand sprayer and apply liberally. Does a great job. Do not use any bleach solutions - bleach will only work on hard non-porous surfaces like tiles, ceramics, etc. It is ineffective on porous materials such as tent fabric.

 

Chris - Thanks. You have no idea how relieved I am. I'm tickled pink, honestly.

I removed the GP w/ a ($5.99) Grabber Pick-Up Clamp Tool I bought @ Ace Hardware this morning to replace the one which went AWOL many years ago.

 

Great job, Norm! I know what a relief something like that can be!

 

Thanks, Greg.

 

Trudging along..LH GP wiring harness installed...moving over to the RH installation.

 

Good news Norm I am sure that is a great feeling.

 

Hi everyone.

Been a full day so far. Got up early, went to my airport and talked with the neighbors, went to get a battery for one of the cars, went to Awful house for lunch, came to Mom's and have been working on the tree. Now it's break time.

Like a dumbass I got my chainsaw stuck in a big branch that pinched the bar. I tried lifting the whole thing up with something under the big branch, I tried hacking it out with an axe(actually a wood splitting maul), and after break I'm gonna hook up the pickup and see if I can yank it and set the saw free.

Thanks for the explanation Norm. I went back and looked at the ad. He said the crates are 8 feet long and 43" x 43" and here I think is the deal breaker, each one weighs 1600 pounds. He can use a machine to load it in my pickup, but how in the heck would I get it out when I got home? Well, it seemed like a good idea.

Beautiful out. Gonna be warm tomorrow too but rain. Got inside stuff to do in that case.

Okay back to it. Hope everyone is enjoying the penultimate day of 2024.

 

Mike, try using a wedge or use the mail like a wedge and hammer it in You could always tie the tent crate to a tree near where wyou were going to pitch it and pull it off you truck. Unfold it right where it hits the ground or use your back hoe to lift it and move it around

 

Mike - Behave yourself.