My 64 Olds paint job has really broken down and I need to strip it down to bare metal. Is there already a thread about painting to cover this?

I am really worried about getting out the microscopic rust. I read of many treatments, but they have to be washed off with water, and that puts a real fear in me. Yes they do say that it leaves a protective coating, but I'm still worried.

How about your experience in working a car down to bare metal. I already know that sandblasting will warp the metal.

Many thanks Bob

 

You'll never get out every single pit of rust, so stop losing sleep over it. Most folks use a rust converter followed by a quality epoxy primer. The other option is to use an etching primer. I'm going the etching primer way on my well-rusted 86, though it is only a driver.

 

when you go down to bare metal, you're going to get "flash rust". you must use a self-etching/rusty metal primer in this case. there is also a product called "rust-i-cide". that works very well on light to moderate rust and is a terrific primer.


bill

 

My technique is to use a no wash stripper and scrape off the goo with a plastic scraper. Then whatever is left I lightly coat again with stripper and use an angle grinder with wire brush attachment to buzz off the rest. Seems to work well and gets it down to bare metal in prep for sanding.

 

OK Joe really pegged me. I am a professional worrier. Give me your problems to worry about and then you can relax.
Why choose the etching prime over epoxy primer? Is it because of the price or safety factor in spraying?


I agree with a rust converter and I was looking for someone with experience. Mike.. I went to the web site for "rust-i-cide" and also saw Ospho. My hood has Ospho on it from the chem-strip factory. They told me I had to do a lot of rubbing to remove the coating before applying paint.. I see the instructions don't require that much work. It's not the work that bothers me, the prolem is when I drip sweat on my work.
Thanks Oldsmaniac. I will use a no wash stripper but it will still require additional work. I'm trying to get a few pics posted but the server is too busy.

 

I just went to the body forums and studied up and drained their brains before I stripped mine.
Epoxy primer has no Isocyanates? or ISO's in it so it can be sprayed with a normal respirator, reason I used it in my attached garage. They say you don't really need etching primer if the metal is clean and has tooth. I didn't use Ospho but I know the body guys use it and refer to it a lot. Most rust should be gone if you strip it right and tiny pits can be epoxied over with no problem since it seals out moisture and air unlike the old lacquer primers. The majority of body guys use DA sanders with 80 grit to strip paint, chemicals have their place but they tend to stay away from them from what I learned on the body forums. Any of the other 2 part or 2K stuff you should only spray in a booth with full skin coverage and full face mask with a fresh air respirator. It goes right through your skin and into your bloodstream and can permanently damage internal organs and the effects can show up years later. Not trying to worry you too much.

Allan
http://www.autobody101.com/
http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php
http://www.leopardsystems.com/paintu...orum/index.php

 

I am using a product from marshyde called one step. It is a rust converter that comes in a rattle can. as I get a section stripped or blasted, depending on position, and condition. I will seal the pannel up with this stuff. I sand this off when the pannel is finished, and then use a self etching primer to start with, and then do final massaging, and minor dings or imperfections. The one step is a nice cheet. I was striping a quarter last fall when the weather caught up to me(un-heated garage) and started rusting this spring. I gave it a quick coating of the stuff and it stopped the rust dead. but I don't think I trust the stuff to use as a primer as advertised.

 

As an afterthought, I used to work in a bodyshop, we never chemically stripped a vehicle. I'm not sure why specifficaly, but just because of my experience there I would not recomend it.

 

I bought a car that was already down to bare metal and had sat for a while. It had a light coating of surface rust so I had the same concerns. I went to a couple of body shops and asked, most said just DA sand it and put an epoxy primer on it. The impression I got about using chemical treatments was that it was not all that necessary, and hard to wash off well.

 

CSSTRUX brings up a good point. I work in steps and probably need to use something like a rust converter as I go along. I should also try to change my bad habbits.

Thanks for the forum links. I started going through them.

Still trying to upload pics. The server won't cooperate.

 

I chose to use a dual action sander and 180 to 220 grit papers, wiped with solvent, epoxy primed (PPG DP50LF). The strippers make an ungodly mess and it is hard to remove them completely from the metal.

 

If chemical stripper is used where do you put the nasty stuff that comes off the car once you take off the paint? If you put it in the trash can it goes to the dump.

 

Where does it go when its sanded off?....I usually burn the goo in my shop woodstove. I pile it on pieces of cardboard...it dries and then it gets burned... works for me. Car gets sanded afterwards and then wiped down with thinner before primer...never had a problem removing traces of anything.

 

 

My sander has a vacuum pickup on it and it all goes in there, not a problem. I take all that kind of toxic stuff and fluids to the recycling center where it can be disposed of properly.

Allan

 

Good man. Unfortunately, I don't own a shop stove to burn all that old stuff. I am not sure if Lawton, OK has a recycling center. I am living in Podunkville, USA.