Anyone strengthen stock motor mounts...?
Anyone strengthen stock motor mounts...?
I have read that some guys put one or two bolts across the stock mounts to strengthen it...
Anyone do this ..?
I have a solid mount here but they dont fit...
Wanna to do this only on driver site.
Hope someone can send me a pic.
Anyone do this ..?
I have a solid mount here but they dont fit...
Wanna to do this only on driver site.
Hope someone can send me a pic.
What’s the need?
Yes, I’ve heard of guys drilling a hole all the way through the center and running a bolt through.
Probably works.
Just use a torque strap or even a chain on the drivers side.
-peter
Yes, I’ve heard of guys drilling a hole all the way through the center and running a bolt through.
Probably works.
Just use a torque strap or even a chain on the drivers side.
-peter
I ran a bolt thru the center for years with no issues prior to going to solid.
Need to drill a clearance hole on frame mount for head/nut.
And the solid mounts had to be tweaked / shimmed from block to fit.
Choose your fight.
Need to drill a clearance hole on frame mount for head/nut.
And the solid mounts had to be tweaked / shimmed from block to fit.
Choose your fight.
So you drill a hole across the motor mount and the frame mount ...is this correct ?
No. You just put the bolt through the center of the mount, same direction as the bolts going into the block. The only point of the bolt is to stop the mount from ripping apart where the metal plates are bonded to the rubber. Note that any modern mount has a safety interlock buried in there, so even if the rubber fails, the mount won't come all the way apart.
One of the Hot Rod family of magazines had a "How-To" about this back in the '80s. Drill a hole through the motor mount the size required for tapping threads in the inside plate. Drill a larger hole in the outside plate so the bolt shank will then fit through. Use a bolt just long enough to thread through the mount with a very small amount of clearance under the head of the bolt when complete. The theory is that if you have enough power to over stretch the rubber of the mount, the bolt will stop the engine movement before the mount fails but still have the rubber mount without the noise of a of solid. Like mentioned, it's a lot of work since any replacement mount will have interlocking metal plates inside them anyway.
I know the guy and see poly mount, looking good ....and if i locate in your country i would go this route BUT i´m not ....and i dont want to pay more (shipping tax & custom) than i have till now in motor mounts.
Sorry, didn't notice that you are in the EU. Another "trick" that I've heard of is getting a caulking tube of 3M Window Weld P/N 08609, a fast cure urethane, and inject it in the "voids" of a stock motor mount.
That's good for a wide variety of Chevy mounts that are like big hamburger boxes with just a splat of connective rubber inside. But the Olds mounts are pretty solid - no where to inject.
Yup, just lop off the extra material and make sure it sits all the way down on the saddle so the cross bolt goes through. Might need to run the bolt in the area closer to your hand in the last picture to be out of the way of the frame mount.
on the bottom edge where its open in the above picture, it is a two piece clamshell , cut the excess rubber off and you will see the two pieces and theres a strip about 1 1/2 inch wide you can weld together so it cant open up, still allows the rubber to absorb vibration , but wont open up, a machinist looked at these in 77 and came up with this over the bolts thru because of the interference in the frame bracket, unless you countersink the bolt , Tim
I still don´t have try to mount this motor mount to the frame to see how much space i have ...but yes it really can be that the 2 head bolts areto heigh for the frame mount.
Cant get the bolts wider because it will hit the outer portion of the mout ears ( if you look closely you can see i have cut the washers to get as wide out as i can )
Last edited by STLCRZY; Mar 15, 2021 at 08:53 AM.
I have use 3/8 Inch bolts and i think i would need to use a milling cutter to get p proper clearence hole for the big bolts...must see
on the bottom edge where its open in the above picture, it is a two piece clamshell , cut the excess rubber off and you will see the two pieces and theres a strip about 1 1/2 inch wide you can weld together so it cant open up, still allows the rubber to absorb vibration , but wont open up, a machinist looked at these in 77 and came up with this over the bolts thru because of the interference in the frame bracket, unless you countersink the bolt , Tim
???
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