Dear All,

Took the cutlass out for a little drive today around my area to check out the scenery. Snow is all melted, but the temperature is -15.0*C. Which is 15 degrees below freezing for you Fahrenheit folk.

I jumped in the car first this morning, pumped the gas twice, and BAM, she fired right up. I'm really happy with how i set up the carb/timing/idle and it runs really strong.

Here's a picture from near a local Hydro electricity yard. I thought it was rustic looking.

Allan and Rob,

That does seem like a great thread! i'll have to read up on it. We'll see how the winter goes, i might paint my grilles, i might not. Right now there's a heck of a lot of other manditory touch up and painting that i need to do before the spring sets in...

Cheers,

Tony

Here's the picture

 

That would be about 5*F for most Americans - "cold as crap" for us Texans!
Glad you enjoyed the drive - bet the heater worked great!

 

Definitely! I can't believe how well that heater works! I cleaned out the ducts as well as i could when i redid the dash, they seem to breathe pretty nicely.

I also took the steering wheel wrap off my sports steering wheel. Oh man, does that rubber get gummed up or what. 2 or 3 cleaning cloths later it's not horrible to touch. I know that natural rubber decomposes, but this was a heck of a job to clean up...

 

I know all about the sticky wheels... I bought a clean one last year for 200 bucks and a year later it is horrible all around. Whatever barely touches gets sticky. I think the trash can will be its only fix.......

 

Tell me about it! i was so excited to take off the cover, in hopes that it would be all OEM looking underneath... NOPE, smooth as heck, and gummed up worse than i imagined..

I actually thought about buying some gloss tennis racket grips and just covering it with that.

 

Scott,

Got the control arms! They look great, way cleaner than mine. Hopefully i'll find a place that can sandblast them nicely once i remove all the hardware/equipment.

Pictures to follow upon restoration!

Cheers,

Tony

 

Glad to hear you're happy with them! You are an inspiration to many people on this forum.

 

Have you thought about getting a small sandblaster for your own use? I certainly am thinking about it after all that wire wheeling I did this year. When I called around for SB pricing it was a bit of a shocker. They wanted as much to do all 4 control arms and springs as it would be to buy a small home unit!! SB is faster and gets into the nooks and crannies the wire wheel won't. I just know you will be able to pop all those bushings out of there without too much effort. As I was reminded by Rob when I did mine IT'S CHEATING TO HAVE A SHOP TAKE THEM OUT

Like you think you could get away without posting pics??? I thought we'd trained you better than that

Creed of the Olds Restorer, "Have old parts and Camera, will use 'em" (Apologies to Richard Boone)

 

I have read and enjoyed this thread! And as stated in the quote this is an inspiration for many Olds people doing their restoration.

 

Thanks Scott! I can't do it without the help of you guys finding me parts! I'd be up a creek without a paddle otherwise.. They barely have cars from the mid 90's out here, all the bottom ends rust away before the engines give out..

Joe, I'm glad to have some thread followers, thanks for the kind words. I strongly believe that the best way to show progress is through pictures, you wouldn't believe the amount of times I've gotten tips from the folks on here just by them spotting something in a picture.

For instance, Allan said my control arms looked horrible from corrosion. And luckily Scott had a full set that I can work on while my car is still on wheels.

In other news, my cutlass is coming home tomorrow, next fun touch up restoration is to find a nice gloss paint and redo my air cleaner and radiator top plates. Hopefully in a 60% gloss if I can find it up here..

 

Gosh, I was just suggesting it would probably be easier to work with better parts. I happen to know how bad rustout can get down your area. Wasn't telling you to go spend a lot of money if you didn't want to . I think you'll be much happier working with the CAs Scott sent you, without even seeing them. Now, where's dem pics?
It would be really cool for a series of pics like:
These were on the car -shudder, gasp, aaackk! -:
These are the ones I got before resto:
This is how they cleaned up with SB or wire wheel:
These are the restored ones with bushings - my car loves me:

Just for kicks and giggles, when you do the bushings see if there was any chance the ones in your original CAs would have even come out. Lots of extra work for ummmm, well to be honest? Nuthin!

Go to it my man!

 

Cutlass came home last night! Betcha you southern guys havn't had to scrape 1/2'' of ice off your windshields in awhile!

Here is photo proof.

 

Yow.... I scraped ice of my Ford's windshield - uh - YESTERDAY morning!
Actually it was just frost, but still - had to locate and use the scraper already.
We might get some snow in a couple days......

 

Snow what is that... We will have rain and it will be in the 60's.

 

Another small update! So i got an air cleaner from Scott earlier this year (march or so?) And now it's finally getting on it's way!

Got some air cleaner paint (high temp 60% gloss) from our local hardware store. Here is the final product!

Here is picture proof

 

Dang that looks nice! I sold that by mistake, please send it back!

 

Great job Tony! I would have disappointed if you couldn't bang out a nice looking product.....That will definitely draw the eye to the center of the engine. Now you're going to have to paint the engine and accessory brackets and pulleys, and firewall, and frame, and PS pump/gearbox, and steering shaft, and rad support and.... look what you started now.....

 

Thanks! It had better look good since it took me this long :P

Scott, this is actually the second time i'm painting it, first time i went with a satin-enamel paint and really wasn't too happy with the finish, this seems to be just the right kind of gloss to my liking, and only 7.99 a can!

Woh there! I'm getting there slowly but surely! Took me 6 months to paint the air cleaner But hey, as long as it looks good in the end right?!

i REALLY want to paint the pulleys, are they a pain to get off. Also i'd like to give the fan a good polish. I've just finished my radiator top plate too. i did that one more of a satin colour. i find it looks pretty good, i'll have to grab some pictures and post em'.

 

Pulleys? Lets see. If you pull the water pump pulley, that means you also need to pull the PS pulley. That gives you the perfect excuse to pull the water pump, timing chain cover and check the timing chain. Ok, I'll stop bugging you. Here's something for you though.
You will need to remove the PS, Alt and water pump belts to remove the PS and water pump pulleys. The PS Pulley on your car will not have any holes in it - it will be a solid pulley and that makes it hard to hold while turning the nut on the front. Try loosening it BEFORE you take the belt off. There might be enough tension on the belt that you can hold the pulley with one hand and wrench with the other. The alternative is to get a special tool like the one below to hold the pulley while you undo the nut. The pulley is held in place by a keyway, so it may bind a little coming off, and only installs one way.

If you take off the water pump pulley - its quite easy. Then you can bead blast the fan and paint it like you did the air cleaner. The spacer that goes between the fan and water pump? I've seen them painted silver but I think it's more likely it should be a cast color. I would not install the same 4 blade fan though. Look for a smaller spacer and install a 6 blade fan with a fan clutch or change out your water pump to HD and install a new pulley (I think I have a spare) that will bolt right up to the fan/fan clutch assembly. It's way more efficient for your engine and provides better cooling. For the BEST cooling, get a fan shroud to help funnel the air to the engine. You can probably get these parts from Scott, Eric or John and clean it up really nice. If it's OEM you know it's going to fit.

 

Ummm, Tony? Don't want to say this wrong and upset you. Something about that pic just grabbed me so I enlarged it about 3X. Maybe I'm wrong but I think you have the stone shield rocket 1. Upside down 2. From a 71
The 71 rocket is metal but you can see the body color through the rocket. The 72 is blacked out. Here's my car with a newly installed NOS rocket emblem. Compare it to yours and LMK ok?

 

Hey Allan,

your front end looks great! As you've noticed, there's no upseting tony and his Rustmobile :P I appreciate all constructive criticism.

That shield rocket is installed backwards because the PO glued it in that way I cant wait to throw that damn thing in the dumpster

A nice stone shield has been on my wish list for quite some time..

 

Hah! Thanks scott,

Im gonna throw a quick question out there, any tips on how to get air pockets out of the sticker? Seems I guess there was micro bubbles that expanded with the heat when I turned on the engine. Or maybe it's because I bought the sticker 5 years before I even bought the car.. Maybe the glue is all crappy now..

 

Tony
Could be crappy glue, you never know. Here's what I would do. Use a rubber bondo spreader (make sure it's clean) or your fingers. Take a pin (yup, like the kind you get in packages of shirts). Warm up the decal even if you have to use a hair dryer so any glue underneath will soften up. Then put a pin ***** into the bubble and push the air pocket out through the pin *****. I talked to some of the guys who install the 'billboard ads" (film wraps) on buses, vans etc and that how they do it. But they are also working with new material that's not really glue based - it's a kind of static. Principle for removing bubbles is the same though. Worst case scenario - you have to buy a new decal.

 

Hey All,

So in the process of trying to restore my front seats. I'm running into some trouble..

how the heck do i take the front seat back off?! This little chrome bolt is in my way! i have no way to get at it from the back..



Also, in other news

Allan, i tried making a pinhole in the sticker, for the most part it turned out Okay but i think i'm going to need a new sticker.. it's still bubbling a bit even after i warmed her up and let it dry again...

 

Tony, that little cap is like a speed nut. It's only held on by friction on the inside of the nut. Use something like a trim tool to get under it and gently ease it up. Might want to put tape on the stainless around that area to protect it from scrapes first. Once it's off you will be able to slide the rod underneath out of the pivot hole. IIRC there are 2 other bolts you have to undo *by the seat bumpers in the middle* that will let you take the whole upright out. Don't have time right now to check my car - getting ready to go curling. I'll check back with you later to see how its going.


re: the decal? Probably right. Just crappy glue from sitting so long. Get a new one and see how that goes. Should be much better.

 

Thanks al! I'll try that out! I don't have an authentic trim tool but i have one that i mandrel bent at work (when noone was looking of course )

Have a rockin' time curling!

 

Success! Bottom seat covers are on!

Just.. how the heck am i supposed to get the seatbelts on this thing??

Please also note, i decided not to install the buttons on my seat covers. I just like the look (and my old man's rubber stamp too) So i went ahead and put them on.



As you can see, the PUI Grain is not too bad. Honesty, for the price i paid on ebay on Tamraz's, i really can't complain.

 

You have to cut some holes for the belts to protrude. Use the old covers to measure where they go. There should have been some plastic surrounds to go in the holes.

 

Hey Rob,

The old covers smelled disgusting so they got thrown out months ago...

I definitely have those plastic surrounds where the seatbelts went through.

Does anyone have a picture of where their seatbelts come out of the top???

 

This is a reason I keep all old parts until the job is done. If it smells, keep it outside. I would not think they would be THAT bad... But then again, if critters were in them, then yes, to the dump they go...

Will these pics help any?
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...html#post55927

 

Montreal termites apparently eat fabric too... I'll have to dig up a picture of what the seats looked like before... really nasty man.

Actually! your thread is how i figured out the placement of most of my stuff so far... I'll have to see if i can find a good seatbelt picture.. I'm really nervous to cut the vinyl and induce a tear...

 

When you do cut, try to cut it with rounded corners and only with a razor sharp knife to help reduce chances on future tears.

I did not think you guys up there had termites...

 

The old Foam looked like swiss cheese.. It was pretty bad.

So, if anyone has a picture of a front split bench from a 1972 Cutlass 'S', that shows where the seat belt holes are cut out on the top. Please post it!

 

Tony, I wish i could help you out. I went to snap some shots of the seat in my car, but with the seatbacks in place it's really hard to get one. Install the seat back into the car, and feed the belts up from below to see where they should feed in straight. Best thing I can suggest unless someone has a shot.

 

Al,

Thanks for trying' to grab a pic!

I think that's exactly what i'm going to do. I actually heard back from the PUI tech line and they were pretty helpful. Unfortunately noone seems to have a picture of a 72 Split Bench Seat with Belts installed.

For the time being, seats are covered, and here is a mock up! without hardware attached.

Sneak Preview #1

 

Tony, Nice job!!
To me though it kind of looks 'naked' without the buttons. But on the other hand it's one less thing that will snag anything on your pants, or be the source of a tear.

On the seat backs, did they give you the cutout for the headrest? Or did that kit have headrest upholsterty in it? I have a couple sets of the right headrests that could be redone if you don't have them. LMK if you need any. They aren't in great shape but they would be free to you. Just cover shipping.

 

We used magic lube on the rubber seals of swimming pool equipment for years... never saw any breakdown of the rubber.

 

If there is no petroleum in it, it is good.

 

Hey Al,

Thanks for the comments, I do also think that it looks pretty naked without the buttons, but as long as my dad likes it then it's cool withme

They didnt give me any cutouts for headrests... I still have the white/cream coloured ones from the old seat covers, do you have saddle ones??? If not, maybe i can paint the cream ones? They're in good shape just really ugly colour...

 

Before you throw that wheel out, as a last resort try this. Long term testing is not complete so I put this out there with a caveat. Bought a sticky wheel years ago cheap. Tried to clean it a few times, no luck, put it away. Was cleaning something about a month ago, and decided to try it on the wheel. I normally try to keep chemicals away from rubbers and plastics, but I cleaned half the wheel with GM penetrating lube #88862627 followed by dishwashing soap and water. It didn"t seem to harm the surface and a month later it still feels dry and smooth. You'll want to rinse it well since that lube has a strong odor. It might be worth a try if you've lost all other hope.