So more suspension adventure! (rear suspension anyway)

i managed to FINALLY get out those darned rear shocks out. It took a heck of alot of elbow grease to get the top nuts off. But that wasn't the worst of it. I needed the break the lower nuts with a 1/2'' breaker bar that was 4 feet long. SNAP. They broke right off. Here is picture proof.


So i removed all the hoses above my gas tank, wire brushed them down and painted them silver. Why silver? because i STILL have extra silver paint from my grilles...

 

You da man Tony. Don't take no crap from stubborn bolts! Looks like the shock still has an original sticker on it too. Far better off with new bolts - use some anti seize on them to avoid this problem in future. (ha ha ha) A 4' snipe? That's SERIOUS torque.

The fuel lines look really good - doesn't look like much if any pitting or corrosion. You still got those little color coded clamp rings? Remember to run new rubber line from the fuel pump to the metal line on the frame.

I was thinking about the fuel thing the other day. Lots of guys run an extra fuel filter in front of the carb filter. I don't want to do that because it doesn't look stock. So I'm thinking of putting one either at the back here, or just before the fuel pump. Any thoughts or suggestions? I want to keep it hidden as much as possible; and remember it's not a DD. Also, did you decide to paint your fuel tank? I think silver would look pretty good all said and done.

What the heck did you do to the right lower fender???? I can see the bondo on the lower part, but what happened on the edge there? I know you're waiting on those patch panels.....

 

The lower fender was like that when i got the car. Only recently have i had time to start actually making the car look like a real boy, i mean car

I'm probably going to remove the fenders and liners when i patch them to let me do the suspension a little bit easier. One more step and the car is coming off the frame! lol

I think putting an in-line filter back there is great. Just put a good quality one that you won't have to replace all the time.

I'm leaning back and forth between undercoating and paintign the tank silver. I mean, my tank is already stripped for the mostpart, I just need to give it a little more elbow grease and i should be able to put a nice coat of paint on it.

 

In other news.... Brake time!

A 3.5 hour fight with my brake booster and it FINALLY came out. I can definitely tell that i need a new master cylinder, this one is clearly leaking, But the booster still works well.

I think i will scrap the master cylinder, get a new one, and paint my booster for now to save 100 bucks.

 

As per the bushing thread Tony? I think I wouldn't even bother to clean that one up. The corrosion just gives me the ***** nillies about metal strength. If you do decide to clean up one from Scott or Eric? I did that to my original booster and used the cad paint I told you about earlier. This is how it turned out (pic taken right after the MC blew out rear seal):



Here's the booster from Crane installed with a new Master Cylinder. Of course this was before my front end build, that's why everything looks kind of grungy.

 

Cool! That setup still looks AWESOME, heck, you call that grungy, i call it beautiful

i think i might take a little time to decide what i'm going to do. i'm definitely getting a brand new master though. I think that's paramount for safety.

Corrosion and pitting take a definite toll on structural integrity. In the 1800's, early train axle's actually had spot corrosion that added to the cyclic loading from the railways. The axle's would snap and people only found out why about a century later. But i should stop here because i know you're the rail guru!

 

I was kind of bored last night so i took my wire-wheel to the old booster, Brushed her down to bare metal and gave it a coat of primer.

What do you guys think? Salvagable until i get a new one? Master cylinder should be here any day.

 

That actually came out not too bad Tony. It probably is ok inside. What I'd do? Get some glazing putty and fill in all those pit marks, then sand it smooth so it looks solid. Take your time with the sanding so it looks like perfectly smooth metal. Prime again and cad paint. Would look probably like new. I did that with the license plate holder John sent me. It was really pitted. After cleaning it up, I did the glazing putty trick and sanded it down with 200/400. Then painted it black. It looks like new.

Also FWIW, the OEM booster has less subtle indented triangles, they're 'softer' or less pronounced than the ones stamped out as repops. Might be worth doing both sides and reinstalling with your new MC. Don't forget that the MC has to be bench bled HORIZONTALLY. Don't install it on the booster and then try to install both. Do the booster first, then bolt on the MC. Much easier, specially if you have your wheel liners out..... Put some anti seize on those studs (MC and Booster) to make the rebuild go easier.

 

Cool! I had the old bolts soaking for about a month in WD-40, they came out like a dream, i've already wirebrushed the firewall studs as well as MC bolt studs.

Okay, so the MC needs to be bench bled horisontally? My old MC was OEM so it had the bleeder screws on the side for bleeding.

What's a good way to bench bleed a MC? I can't say i've done it with a non-OEM one before...

 

Yes, it has to be done horizontally so all the air in the piston slide area will be evacuated. Your replacement MC probably won't have bleeders, but that's ok. Get your vice ready.
* Put some shop rags between the MC and vice so you don't scratch it all up.
* Tighten vice so MC is held firmly and doesn't move.
* Add brake fluid to both reservoirs.
* Use a wood dowel or blunt end of small screwdriver to gently push in the piston on the MC. Bubbles will come out - lots at first, then smaller amounts with each subsequent piston push.
* Repeat bleeding till no bubbles come out the little bottom port on both chambers. Could take as little as 7 pumps, or more.
* Put cover on MC. It's ready for install on the booster.

Obviously when you're connecting the brake lines, have some rags under the MC to catch any dripping. It won't be much, but there will be some.

NOTE: when you've finished install and are ready to bleed the brakes, top up the MC, but DONT LEAVE IT OPEN when you're pumping the brake pedal. Unless of course you like brake fluid shooting out all over your windshield and cowl.

 

Hey Alan - that engine compartment looks clean enough to eat off of!

 

Thanks Peter. That was 'before' I started to do the front end resto. There are some improvements still to be done. The engine has only had minor work over the past 40 years. (Intake and timing chain). Other than that it's just a tired ol 350 that needs a breath of fresh life. Your car is the one that people could eat off of - although I can't imagine why you'd let them

 

Cover it when bench bleeding, too. I was amazed at how far that crap shot up!

 

Sounds great guys!

Pcard lets see some pictures of that coral!

Rob, what hoses did you use in your picture to bench bleed? I notice you had some fittings and ran the fluid back into the MC.

I don't have a vice here at my place either, i'm thinking this is probably a good time to get one since i got a 50 dollar home depot gift certificate from work the other day.

Actually, i just realized i have a couple feet of brake line left from making new lines from the prop valve back to the junction. I could probably use that..

 

Tired old 350 that can probably still roast tires

Drop in that Posi

 

Hmmm, Rob??? This is one time I'm gonna disagree with you. If the tops off the MC and it's bled in a vice? He's going to need to see when the bubbles are done. I just pushed in the piston on the MC gently. You don't need to ram it. There will be some 'surging' of fluid, but it's easy to control. Air bubbles will always take the path of least resistance. Didn't spill any brake fluid doing the bleed on my car, and the new MC doesn't have bleeders on it. Mind you I didn't use the bleed method you did.

 

SO wait a minute.

Do i need to run hoses from the outlet back to the reservoir? Or do i just plug the outlet...?

 

When you get your new MC it will already have a blue or red plastic cap plugging the brake line outlets. You don't need anything else. Once you've got the MC bled and hooked up to the booster, you pop out each of the plugs as needed to attach the brake lines. There will be a little dripping, but not a lot. That's why I said to put shop rags under the MC when hooking up the lines.

 

Ah gotcha! sounds good, i forgot about the little plugs in the picture.

So the pressure of pumping the master cylinder won't make the plugs want to pop out?

 

No, the fluid will take the path of least resistance, which is up to atmosphere.

 

Makes sence! I should know this... But i'd rather ask 100 questions now instead of having brake fluid all over myself this weekend

That already happened once, except it wasn't me, it was my fender.

Funny story, but that's how i actually first found out the real colour of my cutlass (before i could read cowl tags.)

 

Look what came in the mail last night from Scott,

FINALLY my glovebox is complete. I even have the little folder it came in.

 

I did not use the cover, but I covered it with my hands (while wearing gloves) Mine erupted quite a bit with normal pushing of the plunger. I was able to see the bubbles. I was finally able to go slowly enough to avoid a geyser, but that spring is stiff and it tired my hand.

Tony, I used the bleeder kit that came with the MC. I did not even use the bleed screws on the MC.
That (along with all brake bleeding) was a crappy job.

 

Cool, you know the Canadian version of those manuals looks completely different right? FWIW, I agree that having something is better than having nothing.

 

Looks like i got a package in the mail today thanks to Allan!

New stone shield emblem - Check! Looks great.

Seat back hardware - Looks mint! Here are some pictures of it installed. As well as a picture of my slowly progressing interior.

Here is what has been replaced in the interior. Whats next? DEFINITELY those door panels need to go.

1) New Steering wheel (old one was cracked and all i kept was the horn button)

2) Carpet completely removed, and new one (PUI) installed (Dark Brown Saddle)

3) They look kind of funny, but i installed a couple gauges where there were already some holes in the dash. (Vacuum and Water temp)

4) Seat back buttons and ***** (thanks to Allan!)

5) Front and rear seating completely replaced, new foam, and seat covers (PUI) You might note there are no buttons on the seat, i'm building the car for my dad and he opted for no buttons. so thats what he got!

 

Tony, that car is really looking good. I remember what you posted when you started it. That front bumper fits amazing! What the heck happened to that beautiful grill you restored (right side looks like red on the lower trim?

FWIW? I would leave those door panels exactly like they are. I think they look sharp in your pic.

That car owes you its life!

Pics of the gas tank install?

 

Thanks Al! Any tips on what i can use to clean the door panels? Maybe a brush and some soapy warm water??

The front bumper was a fantastic find, i'm really really happy with it.

I need to eventually get new mouldings that go around the grilles (The PO had red paint on the old ones, and i stripped off as much as i could.)

Are the repop mouldings any good? Some of the tabs are broken off mine and they dont sit very well....

Hopefully i'll get the door panel from John soon so i'll be able to do those repairs. The lower door/fender is really bugging me..

 

Can't really see the problem with the door panels in that picture. I'm guessing they have some built up grime on them??? I'd definitely start with warm soapy water. Remember that wood grain area is not waterproof and the lower part of the panel is just really stiff pressed cardboard, so don't be dousing them. Just a sponge, time and gentle brush. If you need something stronger, go with ZEP citrus cleaner, but rinse really well.

re: grill trim. I haven't seen a lot of it on the repop market. Have you considered getting some decent replacement stuff from Scott, Eric, or John? I think that stuff cleans up pretty good if you use fine steel wool. I'm going to be trying that on my inner liners.

Just noticed your fuel gage is pegged to the right off the scale. There's a fix for that. Gotta look it up though.

 

Cool good idea!

Fuel gauge is pegged because I havnt hookrd up the tab wire in the trunk. So open circuit is past full.

I actually rigged up my fuel sender last week and tried the whole range, it works great!

 

Excellent!
I'm dying to see the pics of your fuel tank removal, clean up and install? On another thread, or just still on your camera?

 

Pictures to come soon!

I'm working on finishing up the detailing on my differential, previous owners of this car must have rattle canned this thing at least 3-4 times, you wouldn't believe the layers of paint i've gone though..

On a positive note, i found the code on my passenger axle tube that confirms it's a 2.73 Peg-Leg. I guess that's progress?

 

And into the evening, i went and picked up another truckload of parts to complete my suspension adventure.

Thanks to the MAW syndrome, i went and purchased ALL new steering pieces. Here is a picture of the box, the big box on the left is my new front brake shoes. My old ones were TOTALLY shot. Time for a new set.



Here is a sneak peak at my new master cylinder. As rob mentioned, it comes with a bleeder kit and instructions to bench bleed. Depending on how tired/excited i am, i might do that tonight.



Now a sneak peak at Balljoint installation. Notice careful and careless leverage to my bedroom door frame.. Also note my shiny new balljoint installation tool. It's the OTC one from amazon, great deal, works really well too. I've got 3-4 sets of cars to do balljoints this summer. So i went ahead and bought the tool.

 

Some more news on the sort-of suspension front. i FINALLY got a spare tire for my car. Cost 120 dollars at my local garage, installed and balanced. I figured that was a good enough deal, especially since i walked there with my rim and didn't had to spend a penny in gas.

Here are pics of the install. I also bought 6' of standard brown loop carpet to do my trunk. I really like it this way. it's nice and clean.

 

I really love the 68-72 cars...another classic like the 57 Chevy...except last of a breed.
There will never again be cars made like ours.
I enjoy seeing the pics..but you guys know the engine does the work...right?
There is supposed to be dirt...makes it look....driven.
More pics please!

 

Tony - looking good. The MC should be no problem. Surprised you bought that press though. Part source has a free loaner program. Wait a minute - IIRC you don't have PS close by? Or was it Princess Auto? I'm kind of surprised you did that in the house. Lower ball joints were really easy on my control arms. Love the blue boot!

 

Looking good Tony.

 

Looking great Tony! I love the idea of the carpet in the trunk. Non-stock but looks better and will be more durable than the mat.
My lower ball joints were a true BEAR - you lucked out!

 

Actually i haven't even bothered with my own balljoints, i got an extra set of control arms from Scott before i even started disassembly of my own car. I wanted to be able to remove the old arm, clean, paint, and install the new one.

Since i don't have my own garage, i have to do whatever is going to take the minimal amount of time.

The carpet actually turned out really great! I heated it a little bit with a heat gun and it kind of moulded to the floor/hump a bit better. It's definitely not stock. But it looks neater and i like that.

 

Next princess auto is out near the boys in Ottawa. It's a 2 hour drive and with the price of gas these days, i really need to gauge what parts i buy and from where.

I ended up getting the OTC kit from Amazon (60 ish dollars?) it's worked out really great so far.

Speaking of MC, i thought those bubbles were NEVER going to stop coming out.... i had to pump that sucker for 5 minutes probably

FINALLY i got a clear stream of fluid coming out both sides. Right now it's bolted up to the car, but not hooked up to the lines. I want to hook it up and have time to bleed it right away.

 

Are you guys going to a show in ottawa this summer? I need a milestone so i can push myself to get this car ready!