Anyone have any pictures of how you removed the body from the frame? I want to be able to get the body high enough to roll the frame out.

 

I made a wooden A frame (like a big sawhorse) to support the body at the firewall (no front end on the car body), wide enough at the side A supports so the frame with just wheel rims on the back to roll between them. I supported the back under the quarter pinch welds with wood on 6 gallon pails. Raise the whole thing up with floor jacks by the diff, front end etc while the frame is attached. Roll in the new/restored frame/diff etc, raise it up and bolt to the body. Then you can use floor jacks on the frame or diff, A arms etc. to raise it enough to remove the pails and wooden A frame.

 

I C-clamped 2x8's to my lift under the pinch welds and lifted it up

 

I used my engine hoist in front, then placed jack stands under the firewall and floor area,then I moved to the back ''trunk" area and strapped a chain around the trunk lock,lifted it and placed my 4x4's and jacks under the back part of the wheel opening or the front part of the trunk area. Then I moved back to the front and rose the front some more until I could pull the frame out.I kept going back and forth to the front to rear etc. Until I could pull frame out. I also pulled the wheels off first "before pulling frame out.Hope this makes sense.

 

Thanks for the information, what I ended up doing was to use my floor jack to raise the body up and put 3 10ft 2x6's under the body. Had 5 of my friends come over and help me lift it onto the wooden body dolly I built. I thought the body would be much heavier,but we lifted and place it with no problem. hopefully when I get ready to put it back on the frame it will be just as easy.

 

I used 4x6's built up to match the body then raised up a little at a time with a floor jack using jack stands on the ends of the 4x6 (out far enough to let the frame by) until high enough to drag the frame out. Look at my web site to see pics. http://69.205.125.5 Steve

 

Steve your album is totally awesome. Way to go. I really enjoyed looking at them step by step.

 

Well Done Steve!!
I spent probably an hour going through your build and that was going quickly. Found some interesting stuff I can use for my FE2 suspension; I wasn't quite sure where the control arm braces attached. Seems like I have to drop my exhaust to put it in.

Did you put the car back to it's original color? I noticed that you started with black and went to Saturn Gold? How long did this take you? I would kill for a work space like what you've got. Nice shop and really clean!!

One question: How come you went with gold headrest and armrests? That's not a typical color change for the interior....

 

but when I moved the hoist to the trunk, I popped out those two drain plug hole covers and made a "spreader" bar from a 4 x 4 on bottom and one on top ran the chain up from the bottom through the top spreader bar and then to the hoist. I built a frame of 4 x 4 's to have the body resting on. now I have to put the body back on to repair the quarters, geez louise LOL....

 

Thanks for the kind words. I spent 3 years on and off. I have done a frame off in 6 months but can't do that anymore. I changed the color on the 70 to galleon gold from the original black and gold. I di change the headrests and arm pads to black before I began driving the car. I am lucky to have that space and just added another 36x32 addition to the rear shop and now have a above ground lift. Steve

 

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Two floor jacks, an engine hoist, 4 jack stands, and 2 4x4s. Jacked the front and lifted the rear at the trunk latch. Two hoists work better. Or one and lift from the seat belt holes.

 

Nice wheel chock!

 

I removed my frame on my 55 Olds by supporting the body on an overhead crane.
The frame was on a floor hoist and once I seperated them, I just rolled out the frame and lowered the body onto the floor hoist. you may not have this type of equipment available but with the engine and steering out the body doesn't need to be raised to high.
Dave

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